Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Sáb 11.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece | 33m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
I think this is wonderful.
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11 | ★★ Didgeridoo | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack | 80m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Second (and third) pitches are better than the first which has a single steep hard move. Top pitches seem hard for 9.
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 | ★★ Ejaculation | 50m | ★ Buena | |||
Slippery
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14 | ★★ C.S. Concerto | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★ Buena | |||
10 | ★★ D Major | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
8 | ★★ Diapason | 55m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
11 | ★★ Piccolo | 33m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
22 22 R | ★ Aardvark Original Start (Aardvark Direct Start) | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
18 | ★★ Cantata | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
Worthwhile
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14 | ★★ D Minor | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
24 | ★★ The Philosopher | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Chad broke his ankles going for it on this one. Don't go for it unless you know your gear is good.
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20 | ★★ Cadenza | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Wanders around but good climbing
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18 | ★★ Aardvark | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very pumpy to protect well in first half.
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
I think it's good but not awesome. One star.
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15 | ★ Mudeye | 12m | Ni te molestes | |||
16 | ★ Stentor 3rd Pitch | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Good fun!
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22 | ★ Private Detective | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Always a little scary.
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24 24 R | Private Assassin - con Esther | 10m | Medio | |||
I fell off the last move in light rain. Fortunately the cam held or I would have been mush.
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17 | ★ Saint Peter | 10m | ★ Buena | |||
Good, strenuous climbing, a bit greasy
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Dude Boobs - con Claudio | 15m, 2 | Medio | |||
Good position, climbing is average
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22 21 | ★ Frenzy | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Stiff for 21, start is desperate
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24 | ★★★ Spring Offensive - con Wendy Eden | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Brilliant! Bolts need replacing.
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23 | ★ A Plaything For the Missus | 15m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Bolts need replacing
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | ★ Guideline | 8m | ★ Buena | |||
Cute!
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25 | ★ The Flashing Blade | 25m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
23 | ★★ Iron Void | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I found this scary. The wires at the start take a lot of finding, and the top is runout above a dead tree to impale yourself on!
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle | ||||||
23 | ★★ Finger Prince | 15m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | ||||||
23 | Throw Me No Beers | 12m, 2 | Medio | |||
Bolts probably need replacing now
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20 | Steel Delinquency - con Ben Pearse | 18m | Medio | |||
Don't remember it being that great.
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Mié 8.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | ||||||
12 11 | ★ Lizard Procrastination | 40m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Varied and enjoyable. An easier variation for guiding is to go R around the corner on the second pitch, makes the whole route about 9.
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18 | ★ Riddled | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Despite appearances it's worthwhile! Not the greatest gear (or rock obviously) so don't make it your first 18.
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21 | ★★ English Ethics | 15m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I really like this one.
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21 | ★★ Cruel Consistency | 15m | Medio | |||
I find the rock and gear to be poor on this, I wouldn't lead this again.
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21 | Wrap-around Sunglasses | 15m, 1 | Ni te molestes | |||
24 | ★ Use Me and Abuse Me | 15m, 2 | Medio | |||
The bolts flex alarmingly
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Mié 8.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Beside Myself | 30m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.
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23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
21 | ★★ Skydiver | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great climb. Reachy at the top.
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25 | ★ Mixed Metaphor | 25m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Toproped as, like all of Gordy's bolts it seems, they are non stainless and already rusted to crap.
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22 | ★ Spasticus Autisticus (Spasticus Autisticus (Not Autisticus Spasticus)) | 17m, 3 | Medio | |||
I find this quite hard, and not that much fun. Others seem to like it.
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22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Tricky and pumpy at the top
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22 | ★★ Free Admission | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great! I really like this one.
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23 23 R | ★ Even More Moves | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
The only route I've ever done that it's handy to have 2 x #4RPs. Still a bit bold.
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19 19 R | ★ Coke Adds Life | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
A little scary as the gear gets better the higher you go. Fairly tough.
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21 | ★ Smile | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
21? Edwin brushing the crux hold on lead before pulling the move is stylistically still one of the most impressive ascents I've seen.
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Mié 8.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
23 | ★ Purple Denotes Bruising | 10m, 3 | Medio | |||
This is the only route I can think of that I don't think should have been rebolted. The bolts were so obviously rubbish from the day they were put in that it made it quite atmospheric - a bolted death route. Now it's not really worth doing, as the climbing is just average.
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22 | Maternity Wear | 15m | Medio | |||
Not worth a star. Unremarkable rock and climbing
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23 23 R | ★ Kookenhagen | 20m, 1 | Medio | |||
Not worth a star. There is gear to protect you before the bolt but the rock is pretty questionable. Climbing isn't that special.
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18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
One star. Amazingly steep,but the rock feels dubious.
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22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Fabulous steep jamming. Wonderful.
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23 23 R | Luxury Item - con Marty | 15m | Ni te molestes | |||
Not that great. RPs at the start, it's a bit bold but the climbing and rock are not that great.
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Mié 8.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
15 | ★ Scylla | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Tough!
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18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
I think these routes are good, but not really two stars.
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18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
21 | ★★ Feel It Closing In | 12m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Really quite tricky
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Mié 8.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Bum Rocks | ||||||
22 | Fingersmith | 16m, 2 | Medio | |||
Mié 8.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | ||||||
24 | ★★ Hunger - con Stuart Williams | 20m, 1 | Medio | |||
I thought it was awful - harsh rock and ugly climbing - but I see Steve's post saying it was great. May be worth revisiting. Anchor was crap 20 years ago.
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Mié 8.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area White Mice Walls | ||||||
18 | Thighs and Quivers | 20m | Basura | |||
Absolute rubbish
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Mar 7.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area White Mice Walls | ||||||
20 | ★ Bermuda Triangle - con Gordy | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Good, fairly tough but hardly worth the walk. The other routes look rubbish.
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Mar 7.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area The Pimple | ||||||
21 | ★ Squeeze Me Gently | 10m | ||||
Mar 7.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Castration | 15m | Medio | |||
16 | The Martyr | 11m | Ni te molestes | |||
24 | ★ Petro-Fy | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Yes would be a very dangerous lead.
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21 | ★ Petronius | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
A really hard lead. Short but difficult to place the gear.
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14 | ★ Nero | 13m | ★ Buena | |||
5 | Spasticus | 10m | Medio | |||
Down soloed on sight as the descent... I didn't know it was a climb.
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21 | The Bolt - con Edwin | 13m, 1 | Medio | |||
18 | ★★ The Rack | 13m | ★ Buena | |||
A bit slimy. Good tho.
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20 | ★★ Christian Crack | 13m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Borderline 21. A remarkable lead by a pregnant Anne Pauglik in about 1977.
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22 | ★ Blasphemy | 15m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
I like this one.
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17 16 | ★ Crucifixion | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Hard and insecure! Gear is a bit odd too. Take care.
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26 | Fitzroy Street | 12m, 4 | Ni te molestes | |||
The 21 version
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Mar 7.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble | ||||||
20 22 | ★ Pinpricks Of Blood | 10m | ||||
18 | ★ Thimble | 9m | ★ Buena | |||
Pretty hard for 17... hard for 18 even! A worthwhile shorty.
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Mar 7.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Letting Go | 15m, 1 | ||||
28 | ★ Slime Time - con Ingvar | 15m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Maybe 3 days? Quite good, and not particularly slimy. One slippery hold. Reachy though - there's a move at the start that is about 23 for me and looks 32 for Dave Jones.
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20 | ★ Popeye | 20m | Ni te molestes | |||
All feels loose -not fun really
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20 | ★ The Wizard of Id | 10m | Medio | |||
L at top to chains
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21 | ★ Oogie Boogie | 10m | ★ Buena | |||
hard and gnarly
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21 19 | ★ Sausage Of The Century | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
fun and nice
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Mar 30.º Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
22 | ★ Problematic | 10m | Medio | |||
Don't really remember this
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22 | ★ A New Toy | 15m, 1 | Medio | |||
24 | ★ Look Sharp | 15m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
OK, a hard crank then insecure.
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26 | ★★ Hit the Deck | 18m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Interesting and varied, good but not great.
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21 20 | ★★★ Little Thor | 12m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Really good, hard for 20 and a bit greasy now. Take care placing your gear so it doesn't unzip.Gear is good, crux is above gear.
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16 16 R | ★★ Marmot's Mall | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Good climbing, a little greasy now but protection is OK.
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19 19 R | ★ Slip Knot | 12m | Medio | |||
23 | ★★ Sagittarian | 12m, 1 | Medio | |||
Start is pretty horrible, but finish past the bolt is nice.
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20 | ★ Brit Milah | 12m, 2 | Medio | |||
Okay but not worth a star.
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21 | ★ The Ferrets Are Coming | 12m | Ni te molestes | |||
Greasy and not great climbing.
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Mar 30.º Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
18 | Almost Completely Worthless - con Wendy | 10m | Ni te molestes | |||
Almost completely worthless.
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17 | ★ Cruxless Knickers | 25m | Medio | |||
Placing the gear on the crux is harder than the climbing.
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15 | ★★ Necrophilliac | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
A good one to learn to jam on, as there are not many face holds to escape onto!
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19 | ★★ Telemachus | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
The start is great, the top wanders around and the rock quality drops off. I did the finish once, now I just lower off the ring at half height.
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24 | Mixed Blessing | 50m, 4 | Medio | |||
Looks better than it is. The bolts are practically unclippable.
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11 | ★★★ Agamemnon | 40m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Amazing! Varied, exposed, exciting.
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15 | ★ Smooth Journey | 44m | Medio | |||
22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Hard 22. Powerful crux and varied climbing but not that sustained.
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