Ascensions dans Australie trad par Paul Kinnane

This route looks so tempting to warmup on sitting so close to top camp, with it's easy access, moderate grading and a few bolts. But for those of us on a diet of well bolted sport climbs, on good rock quality, this route is trouble! I see from thecrag stats, this route gets almost no action, and those that do venture on to it don't have good things to say. Perhaps a route from a bygone era...

23? Negative! A great route which would see a lot more action if the grade even vaguely reflected the difficulty of the moves.

Cool move at the start and lots of moss at the end.

For grade 12, this is a pretty spicy lead. Particularly P2.

Worth a star or two for sure!

Had my eye on this route for nearly 20 years, and finally got to jump on it!

Repeat. As good as climbing gets!

As good as it gets. Varied climbing with great protection. The moves into Electra are sensational. Had a sit in the low crux to contemplate the meaning of life.

Normally a total absence of any chalk on a route, and no ticks in thecrag is a warning sign, but we decided to roll the dice, and rolled a 0. The crux appears to be before any protection (and before the piton). The bit I climbed clean (from the piton to the top is 23), but the traverse is full-on and the fall is dangerous.

Great jamming, but pretty short. Unsure what the intent was at the top.

Pretty short, but 2 good sequences on this route. Unsure on the correct beta for the second sequence, but didn't use the glued on blobby thing!

Went up this without doing any due diligence, and did not have a good time. Expect some pretty committing jamming in P1, and take big cams for P2.

Repeat.

Repeat. Never fails to traumatise the seconder

P1 - "Mega Classic" does not do this route justice! Probably the best route I have ever done. Ran out of gear and forearms towards the top, resulting a range of emotions - panic, fear, acceptance, commitment, triumph.

Guidebook had no stars for this route - good to see it with 3 stars in thecrag.

3rd time up this route. It hasn't got easier!

Old-school chimney that is a real battle.

OK climbing, but the bolts protect the easy moves, and leave you run out at the crux, which didn't make much sense. Ended up using some average wires to fill the gap.

Off-putting start leads to ok climbing. Crux is clipping the chains.

Retick

Retick

Unprotected boulder start is a bit of a put-off. Then had an epic in the dark getting back to the ground.

The best 17 I have ever done! Do it!

My First Route in the new Moonarie guidebook.

A pretty shaky ascent, almost blowing it at the big move after the crux. But got there in the end.

Great little route, with many spots you can fall off (as I found out). Bolt hanger (1st bolt) snapped off when I tugged on the draw!

Sustained climbing the whole way - no hard moves.

Ripper warm-up. Thought the crux was about 2/3's up. Will give it a go on lead next time.

Ticked many moons ago.

Easier than Big Wed until the big move to the lip of the roof. More average looking bolts.

A good spot on a rainy day. Bolts are looking a bit ordinary.

Big, steep moves. Missed the on-sight a couple of years ago.

Nice slabby moves on big shiny bolts.

The start took a bit of working out! Didn't use the "leap" method.

Had no probs with the long reach crux, but I poorly protected the start which made it interesting.

Good pro. Great corner crack climbing.