Adults Only Cave Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Adults Only Cave

Summary:

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Saison

21 routes in Crag

Grès

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.559169, 150.222577

description

Steep sport climbing.

Limitations de l'accès

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

© hérité de Bardens Lookout

approche

Easy approach, from Bardens Lookout, down some steps and follow the base of the cliffs until you reach the cave.

où dormir

Mt York is the closest free campsite.

éthique

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

hérité de Blue Mountains

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Flesh and Blood Start left of cave on jugs then traverse past thin technical problem and keep traversing right on better holds and finish up wall and through roof left of TWOAF. 2 fixed draws. FA: lloyd wishart, 15 Déc 2019	26	Sportive 15m
2		★★ Flesh-Eating Monster Start up Flesh and Blood and keep traversing into TWOAF and finish up this for a mega pump. FA: 11 Juin 2020	26	Sportive 25m
3		★★ Fleshpot Batman start up TWOAF then at the 4th or 5th bolt go L and up through the roof to anchors on Flesh and Blood FA: lloyd wishart, 5 Nov. 2019	25	Sportive 14m, 8
4		★★★ The Way of All Flesh M0 Pumpy, steep greatness! Popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017 and replaced when neccesary. As always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it. Lowering from both steel anchor biners will greatly prolong the life of the last permadraw biner.	26 M0	Sportive 22m
5		★★★ The Way of All Flesh Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker. FFA: Mark Baker, 1992 FA: S.Butler, 1992	28	Sportive 25m
6		Fleshline TWOAF into Bloodline	30	Sportive
7		Project Heading R from the 4th bolt of TWOAF is a closed project.		Sportive
8		Open project Start up TWOAF then directly up from the second bolt.		Sportive
The next three routes share the same start for 5 bolts to the lip of the roof. They then split.
10		★★★ Pleasures of the Flesh Starts up Bloodline, then follows Booby Trap left a move and up 2m to the jugs. Now avoid the top crux of Booby trap by easy jugging L and up the last 2 bolts of TWOAF. FFA: Warwick Larkin, 2009	29	Sportive 25m
11		★★★ Booby Trap Start as for Bloodline through roof, left a move and then straight up. FA: 2011	30	Sportive 20m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
12		★★★ Bloodline Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Start 6m R of TWoAF. A bolt plate is handy to prevent rope burn if you miss the start dyno. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof. Prep your belayer and/or use a roller biner, hard catches off the roof crux end badly. Move R at the lip of the roof into much pumpiness beyond. A broken hold at the 3rd bolt has been rectified. FA: B.Littleford, 2009	31	Sportive 20m
13		Blood Clot Start up Brain Haemorrhage to roof and head left to join Bloodline. Quite a few dynamic moves heading left up via the obvious left leaning ramp. You'll arrive with your feet on Bloodline ledge. Suck in the oxygen and finish up Bloodline. Note... You might be tempted to stay low avoiding the classic ramp (crux). If this is the case, give yourself a 29 tick. FA: Jake Bresnehan, 23 Nov. 2018	32	Sportive 20m
14		★★ A Lother One As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of metres R of Bloodline. Going left into Bloodline is not on route. Do not climb into Bloodline at all. FA: Équip.: 2017 NA: Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Sept 2022	33	Sportive
15		★★ Brain Haemorrhage Start 5m R of Bloodline. Phenomenal. It's the route with the obvious double pockets above the roof. 32 in the latest guide; but consensus seems to be about 31. FA: V.Day, 2005	31	Sportive 20m
16		★★ It Takes a Lot to Laugh, It Takes a Train to Cry Start as for Brain Haemorrhage at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. After 10m, where BH goes up, scuttle R to a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep! Mattia Équip.: M Warren, 2009 FA: Nigel Campbell, 2013	29	Sportive 20m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
17		★★ These Terrors be but Arguments for Children On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of Brain Haemorrhage. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off. FA: M Warren, 2009	26	Sportive 12m, 6
18		★★ A Most Profligate Sinner The middle line, 5m R. Originally 22, but has crept up as thrutch skills have crept down. FA: M Warren, 2010	24	Sportive 18m
19		★★ George, King of the Jungle Varied and interesting. Rebolting has led to sudden popularity. The climb finishes at the top anchor after the mantle, then either down climb or lower and rethread at the initial anchor to avoid trashing your rope. If you don’t go to the top you haven’t done the climb! FA: G.Fieg, 1995	25	Sportive 20m
20		★★ Insatiable Starting just right of George. Quite the adventure. Some hard face climbing then onto the arete and up and finishing through final roof. The rope runs much better past the ledge if you clip bolts 5&6 then pull it through to get it out of the first 4 draws. FA: lloyd wishart, 18 Mars 2023	26	Sportive 30m, 13
21		★★★ Haystack Madness About 20m around the corner from GKOTJ. The extremely overhung crack, with holds inside the crack. FA: R.Young, J.Smoothy & J.Lamb, 1980	20	Trad 25m
22		★★ But the Raven, Sitting Lonely... Crazy steep! Start a few metres right of Haystack Madness. Stick clip 2nd bolt, then up through insane steepness on big jugs/breaks, to very punchy move just past the lip of the big roof. Then up the steep face, and into the big juggy roof to the anchors. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 11 Juil 2015 FFA: Ben Jenga, 19 Déc 2015	26	Sportive 28m, 10

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop
20		★★★	Haystack Madness	Trad 25m
24		★★	A Most Profligate Sinner	Sportive 18m
25		★★	Fleshpot	Sportive 14m, 8
		★★	George, King of the Jungle	Sportive 20m
26		★★	But the Raven, Sitting Lonely...	Sportive 28m, 10
		★★	Flesh and Blood	Sportive 15m
		★★	Flesh-Eating Monster	Sportive 25m
		★★	Insatiable	Sportive 30m, 13
		★★	These Terrors be but Arguments for Children	Sportive 12m, 6
26 M0		★★★	The Way of All Flesh M0	Sportive 22m
28		★★★	The Way of All Flesh	Sportive 25m
29		★★	It Takes a Lot to Laugh, It Takes a Train to Cry	Sportive 20m
		★★★	Pleasures of the Flesh	Sportive 25m
30		★★★	Booby Trap	Sportive 20m
			Fleshline	Sportive
31		★★★	Bloodline	Sportive 20m
		★★	Brain Haemorrhage	Sportive 20m
32			Blood Clot	Sportive 20m
33		★★	A Lother One	Sportive
?			Open project	Sportive
			Project	Sportive