A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. Goats Meat Cave 20 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Goats Meat Cave 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Bloc
Lat / Long: -33.565318, 150.227669
résumé
Pumpy and steep.
description
Large roof capped overhang and surrounding area south of historic wells.
Limitations de l'accès
* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.
approche
Park at 'Historic Wells' signed turn off, approx 1klm before Bardens Lookout, then walk 35 mtrs along single trail back toward town, turn right at first orange hiker sign on tree, walk 20mtrs then walk down gully staying right until at base of undercut pillar on right. Then traverse left well under cliffs on wombat trail passing above fallen boulder. First route you pass by is 'non stop crush' on fine red face then cave is 100m around corner. 10min all up from car.
éthique
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Non Stop Crush
Climb corner to high first bolt (optional #1 cam) then up red face. Lost a crimp and gained a grade. FFA: E.Wells, 2014 | 22 | 17m | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Mr Siegel
Seam 5m right of nsc. Bring doubles of #4 cam , then #0.4 , #0.5 , and #3. Stick clip first bolt then up. Sustained with a bit of everything. FFA: Evan Wells, 9 Déc 2014 | 23 | 18m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Pink Solutions
Start R of MS. Stickclip first bolt , hard footless first moves from pocket leads to funky climbing. FA: Evan Wells, 31 Déc 2014 | 24 | 15m, 8 | |||||
|
Non Stop Crush, The Coolabah Kids, Goat Chops, Goats Meat , Bitchymen and Eyes of Faith all stay dry in the rain. Bitumen roof gets wet at the top crux. | ||||||||
| 5 |
Abandoned Project.
Starting just outside of the cave section is an old abandoned line. Start up left of steep corner (cams) to line of RBs traversing out right to the arete, abruptly ending with no anchor. Not many details are know about this line and is considered open?? Équip.: | 6 | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Chicks Smashing Grunters
The extension to TCK.Craft a move past the TCK anchor , have a picnic, then up arette/scoop (crux) , crank through rooflet and up to DUB anchor. Équip.: E . Wells, 27 Août 2014 FFA: 14 Oct. 2014 | 26 | 28m, 13 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ The Coolabah Kids
Bouldery and steep , bolted and climbed in heavy rain. Warm up for climbing above. Stickclip first draw. Stays dry. Équip.: E . Wells, 19 Août 2014 FFA: E. Wells, 21 Août 2014 | 24 | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Choking on Clingwrap
' My first real project I suspect. Gonna take some time!' yep , three years and one week.. from the ground climb tck , clip high bolt on arrete , sit on the ledge and pull the rope through then up heading right after hands free rest on arette. A 80cm sling above kneebar rest and two more on traverse /crux were used. A grade 30 move or two on a grade 25 route. Would be very soft for tall people. Happy to downgrade if anyone repeats it clean from ground and dissagrees with 29. Équip.: E .Wells, 21 Oct. 2014 FFA: Eww, 28 Oct. 2017 | 29 | 28m, 99 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Christmas Gravy
Start just to the right of Nobodies Business at the L pocket and R crimp. Up to the ledge via crimp and slope. FFA: 27 Déc 2014 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 10 |
★ Nobodies Business
Independent route 20 meters left of main cave leading up across low roof (crux) then up and left to nice moves and lower off. FFA: E. Wells, 15 Juil 2014 | 24 | 20m, 10 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Eyes of Faith
Route on left side of cave taking line through right of prow to single u lower off on head wall. Punchy photogenic last moves in steep terrain! Best to back jump one or two bolts for cleaning as rope can get stuck in groove when pulling. FFA: E.Wells, 2014 | 25 | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Goat Chops
Start 2m R of EOF through steepness with a crux in the middle to big rest then bust on through chipped roof and pull lip (crux) then up head-wall another 8m with typical rope drag. Very gymnastic and lots of fun! Équip.: E. Wells, 29 Juin 2014 FFA: E. Wells & J. Tam, 3 Août 2014 | 26 | 30m, 19 | |||||
| 13 |
★ Bitchymen
Climb Bitumen Roof and lower off DRB under arette crux. | 23 | 18m | |||||
| 14 |
★ Bitumen Roof
Starts up corner then through series of rooflets. Pass Bitchymen loweroffs with a big move Work both sides of arete at the crux, then fight the pump leading left to nice red headwall. A few extendable draws help with rope drag. FFA: E.Wells, 2014 | 24 | 30m, 13 | |||||
| 15 |
★ Cabretta Crack
Bring a full rack with slings.Start by climbing past first 3 bolts of goatmeat. The first move is not considered in the grading of climb., clip 4th with sling and traverse left and up to large stance below bulge/steep corner. Pitch 2: up with plenty of small gear to squirmy move under roof proper then out to steep easy terrain. Belay from small tree backed up by slung boulder. Looking out walk left 10 meters to rap points in cave above slab. It is a 30 meter rap but can be reset at 20 mtr if neccesary. FFA: Eric Butler & Evan Wells, 27 Déc 2014 | 18 | 30m, 2 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Goats Meat
Another total pumper, pull over bulge at first bolt then up up up to steep finish. Good warm up for other two in cave. FFA: E.Wells, 2014 | 23 | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 17 |
★ Half the Fun
Up small wall,Boulder through horizontal roof and into orange corner via arette jug. Could be soft. Could be sandbag....depending on if your a boulderer!? FFA: Eww, 1 Jan 2016 | 28 | 13m, 10 | |||||
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Over to the slab. All these routes require bolt plates. | ||||||||
| 19 |
Chonster
Campus start steeply past two fixed hangers then cruise slab past carrots to lower off at 20mtrs FFA: E.Wells, 2014 | 17 | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 20 |
Bubblegum Dream
Around the corner, Two fixed hangers to line of BR's and lower offs at 30mtrs. Mostly grade 9 with a few moves down low. Can be used to top out. Bring 10 bolt plates. FFA: E.Wells & J. Tam, 2014 | 18 | 35m, 12 | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Bubblegum Beach
Start as for Instant Pudding stemming corner then left to arrete (bolt) then up arrete with good protection to obvious crack. Nice moves to offwidth crux (#6 cam) then continuing up arette past horizontal finally veering left toward B.D lower off, clip this or keep it real and use natural pro all the way to the top cave (2BB) and walk or rap off. Bring 3 bolt plates, a single rack of cams, possibly doubles of #2 and some big cams too. FA: Elliott Ashe, Clare Obarowski & Evan Wells, 2014 | 13 | 40m, 3 | |||||
| 22 |
Instant Pudding
Requires 10 bolt plates if doing it in one big pitch. Start far right of wall, stem dirty corner, looking for feet leading left, and brave dodgy runout to first carrot on arete (extended sling recommended) then traverse 15mtrs across lip of roof to optional 2xfh belay. Then up up passing beside a large tapering block you simply don't touch or step on. Hump your way onto ledge on left to most comfortable DUB belay in universe . A 60mtr rope will get you to ground from this lower off if you want to belay second from the ground. Few ascents and some lightfooted climbing required! FFA: E.Wells & R. Basset, 2014 | 15 | 30m | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 13 | ★★ | Bubblegum Beach | 40m, 3 | ||
| 15 | Instant Pudding | 30m | |||
| 17 | Chonster | 20m, 10 | |||
| 18 | Bubblegum Dream | 35m, 12 | |||
| ★ | Cabretta Crack | 30m, 2 | |||
| V2 | ★ | Christmas Gravy | 4m | ||
| 22 | ★★ | Non Stop Crush | 17m | ||
| 23 | ★ | Bitchymen | 18m | ||
| ★★ | Goats Meat | 25m, 12 | |||
| ★★★ | Mr Siegel | 18m, 6 | |||
| 24 | ★ | Bitumen Roof | 30m, 13 | ||
| ★ | Nobodies Business | 20m, 10 | |||
| ★★ | Pink Solutions | 15m, 8 | |||
| ★★ | The Coolabah Kids | 12m, 6 | |||
| 25 | ★★ | Eyes of Faith | 25m, 11 | ||
| 26 | ★★ | Chicks Smashing Grunters | 28m, 13 | ||
| ★★ | Goat Chops | 30m, 19 | |||
| 28 | ★ | Half the Fun | 13m, 10 | ||
| 29 | ★★ | Choking on Clingwrap | 28m, 99 | ||
| ? | Abandoned Project. | 6 |