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The morning crowds had left and we had the whole of Piddo to ourselves: golden afternoon sunshine bathed the cliff, and down in the valley someone was driving the ride-on around and around the house paddock.
I could see the mower's battered hat, craggy face, and sunnies beneath, and an honest dog, konked out on the verandah, wondering why anyone would make any effort at all, in the sun, all afternoon, when there were far more comfortable places to rest. As the rope slowly ran out I could to see more clearly. I knew exactly what the mower was thinking.
It was that moment when the work was done, the mower back in the shed, and in the old armchair on the verandah, to the smell of fresh grass and the sight of the neatly mowed lawn would come that crisp, percussive, irresistible, crack! as
the first icy beer was opened.
5:30. The mower stopped, we packed up and walked out.
And as we did I recalled, looking down at my feet at the time, traversing out to that same arete 45 years ago.
Still calling this an onsight despite down climbing the start and using Jacks shoulder as an intermediate before getting back on the tree.
A total sandbag at 15; but I feel like I knew that anyway??? Maybe the tree stump used to be bigger. After eventually getting through the nails start, the rest was goodfun. The actual mantle was fine, although it was the other way around for Jack?
Forgot to bring bolt plates down so I used one bolt plate and the rest were just wires!
NOTE: new carrots dont fit right angle bolt plates.
so much going on in this climb. wild mantle, fairly limited gear and a pumpy overhanging topout. a real ewbank 15.... i made most of the mistakes i could possibly make and chickened out of the last moves above the bolt
Opening moves felt hard for a 15. And the fall risk makes this unsuitable for a new trad climber! The first bits of gear are pretty ordinary and the slots are a bit worn out.
Mellows out a lot after the first bit, with a very funtraverse on goodfeet but few holds, blasting up the arete and finally some easy jug hauling to the finish line.
Bring gear. You'll want to place stuff on the traverse before the carrots start. The route has quite a few carrots now, but not all are needed.
Quite a balancy challenge initially. I found that laying back on the right of the crack helped gain the inital ledge. After that was really nice climbing
Got shut down on the mantle move, felt way too hard for a 15. Christian Fane did it just to get the piece in above, and then I sent it from the ground.
Once you're through the start, it's a really fun yet always engaging climb. Had some sweet run-outs that I'd normally seize up at.
First trad lead in months and a great warm up. Nice airy moves on the traverse, probably should have placed gear instead of making a long and scary run out. Very fun climbing and deserves the three stars
Fantastic climb with some interesting moves at the start mantle. Check out the video I made for extra beta (if you need it) https://youtu.be/JDININsevYs
Committing move at the start to get on the mantle. Glad I didn’t lead this for my third trad climb. Definitely fun but need a better trad head game first. The rest of the climbing after the mantle felt pretty cruisy with good views from the top.
And the fall risk makes this unsuitable for a new trad climber! The first bits of gear are pretty ordinary and the slots are a bit worn out.
I could see the mower's battered hat, craggy face, and sunnies beneath, and an honest dog, konked out on the verandah, wondering why anyone would make any effort at all, in the sun, all afternoon, when there were far more comfortable places to rest. As the rope slowly ran out I could to see more clearly. I knew exactly what the mower was thinking.
It was that moment when the work was done, the mower back in the shed, and in the old armchair on the verandah, to the smell of fresh grass and the sight of the neatly mowed lawn would come that crisp, percussive, irresistible, crack! as the first icy beer was opened.
5:30. The mower stopped, we packed up and walked out.
And as we did I recalled, looking down at my feet at the time, traversing out to that same arete 45 years ago.