Ascensions dans Grampians

Don't know if I'd use the word pleasant. Very adventurous climb, also very serious and would add an R rating. Make sure you're very comfortable at the grade. Potential for very big swings between solid pieces of pro and you're often on sandy fragile rock that readily crumbles under hand and foot. The belays that rely on cams are just barely enough to keep you sane. All that being said, you get some great positions and the bolting seems solid enough. We bailed out after just before the 7th pitch by following up some FHs, pitty because the next few pitches had DBBs.

Profound crux was bushbashing to the start of the route. Kinda amazingly bad climb to walk ratio given this is probably the longest route in australia. Route finding is easy, just follow the red line. Didnt place any nuts but placed purple totem pretty regualrly you could almost take triples if you want to protect the route. Simuled everything except the 16 and 15 pitch which isaac had an epic on . 7 hours. With a few more bolts this could actually be a fun route.

5th go

Almost onsight - overshot the dyno! 2nd shot. Old school flavour.

Almost onsight - overshot the dyno!

sore elbow stoped at the corner

WOW, what a dyno. Awkward to get there but made sure of the Dyno when i got there, 3rd Shot.

Fun route. Sneaked up this today on Troy’s gear which was awesome. This was pretty much the first route I tried on Taipan 20 odd years ago. Couldn’t do the dyno that time but got lucky this time!

2nd go. Got scared first go. Fell of undercling move and took a nice ride. Much easier with gear in.

Brilliant unconventional trad climbing leads to the legendary dyno move, which is as big as they say.

Second go

Perfect moves on perfect rock. Couldn’t ask for more

Connected the dyno on the flash attempt but couldn’t hold it. 2nd attempt screwed the undercling. 3rd attempt send. What a move!

need longer arms and springier legs

Must believe you are a froggy. Soft for 27, since I did it third shot. Malcolm is planning to replace the crux bolt some point soon, but we didn't have time today.

Quite the move! Fell off on the undercling move on the OS attempt.

pitch 1

Fun and easy for the grade.

sustained, walk in a bit crap

nice historical climbing

Sustained and difficult for 18 - although I'm crap at slab climbs. Jules 2nd

First pitch only