Tough Mamma Wall Principalement Escalade traditionnelle 15 voies en falaise

The impossibly thin crack left of Tough Mamma.

Start: The LH end of Tough Mamma Wall.

Free moves in groove at 25m. Abseil at top.

An excellent aid route, using only crackers. Take a good selection of small nuts & stoppers. (RURP 1973)

"To the left of Tough Mamma is Dragon Woman 20, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From, which goes through a small roof." (Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977)

The thin crack immediately Left of Little Queen. Up this, through the small rooflet.

The fantastic crack line in the middle of the crag (see topo).

1. 20m 21 - Up the Left crack to a ledge at 20m & belay.

2. 40m - continue to top & TB.

Tough Mamma Wall - John Hattink on FA 1974

"Egg Everett & Rick White did Black Magic Woman 22, Right of Tough Mamma."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)

(Possibly the thin crack 1m Right of TM?)

Start in the alcove at the initialed "M", up the slope, Right of the free standing pillar.

1. 45m 20 - Up the line to log tree at 45m.

2. 20m 20 - Up to top.

Sustained crack climbing, exceptionally hard in places. Ground up first ascent, no rests, no inspection, no cleaning.

Start: At the flakes 6-8m R of Magician behind small tree.

1. Grovel up the flaring vegetated off-width (nasty start), and into chimney, then more grovelling up this. Step back L into the crack proper and follow to small niche above. Climb thru this & follow steep cracks to below loose flakes, up these & belay on loose pillar.

2. Climb corner & down L to TB and rap.