Voies dans Mt Maroon pour la cotation selectionnée

Start: 2m Left of GOAS.

Up crack into shallow V groove (2RBs), then left onto face. Up this passing another 9 RBs.

Take big wires and big cams. Try avoiding it early afternoon because you’ll have the sun directly in your eyes.

Re-equipped with RBs in 2020.

About 2m Right of Black Velvet. Initialled "PM".

1. 20m 18 - Up the rib. Take small to medium cams + wires. Chain belay.

2. 35m 20 - Straight up till you arrive at the chains. All RBs.

Good for a warm up.

Start: At the dot below the crack, around the arête from IHAIP.

Up easy pillar and into tricky corner with thoughtful protection. Left through roof & up R of the belay tree (CT & IHAIP), then into nice finger crack with good gear. Chains on tree. Needs a cool head down low.

A rewarding climb with plenty of exposure, difficulty, good protection (p1 aside) and varying technical climbing.

Start: In the left corner of the huge arch/cave. P3 traverses a largish pillar and P5 follows a large RH dihedral (corner).

1. 24m 18R - Up the LH corner of the cave to a ledge (crux protected by a piton), then out L at 10m along a ledge, on thin holds and scant gear (decking-out territory) to good gear and up to belay.

   Marty Bear dans ★★ Beau Brummel 20 - Beau Brummel

2. 30m 17 - Up, Right trending across sheer wall through 2 caves, out Left from 2nd cave and up overhanging groove to stance on side of buttress.

3. 12m 8 - Up and traverse across buttress to base of corner.

4. 33m 14 - Up corner, trending slightly Right, to a good ledge.

5. 18m 20 - Up steep overhanging corner on the Right. Hard moves follow (crux) to a small stance at start of obvious traverse.

   Dave Moss dans ★★ Beau Brummel 20 - Dave Moss at crux of Beau Brummel

6. 42m 17 - Traverse right, then up rib, followed by a thin wall to welcome exit gully.

7. 15m 2 - Up the gully/groove to the top.

History: Ps 1-4: Rick White & Paul Caffyn 6.7.68 (alternate leads).

Ps 4-7 Rick White & Paul Caffyn 31.8.68 (again, alternate leads, after traversing in left from Deception I to the start of p4).

The whole route was lead ground up by Rick & Ted Cais 8.2.69 with Ted having to aid a move or two at the crux.

FFA: ‘Hot’ Henry Barber & Rick White 3.1975

Historical note: Rick told me in 2003, that whilst it was originally graded at 19, it really should be a 20.

The overhanging corner, right of Poached. Some spaced gear below & above the FH.

Overhanging crack Corner opposite Egg Rock. Scramble down the gully behind Egg Rock. A fierce problem, 80° overhanging corner. Top roped by Rick, as a joke. Back then, grade 19 didn't exist.

The first crack at the left end of the cliff. Up crack, then up the face on the right, past the bulge to tree belay.

Thin crack, 2m r. of Skylark. Very thin crack, easier than it looks.

The first arete encountered, about 2m R. of High Strake.

Up White Heat for about 20m, then head out left.

Hand-crack & face climbing, about 2.5m R. of White Heat. Poor rock in the lower half, easier but run-out in the top half.

The crack just left of the arete & r. of the dead gumtree. Up the crack to the first small cave, then up to the 2nd cave. Head out right at the overlap, around the face & join Fidelio at it's 4th bolt. Small gear & easier climbing to top & chains. Bold climbing: requires a cool head.

Up C&A Half to 2nd small cave, continue straight up the thin crack, passing a bolt on the left, & into cave. Clip the FH, out onto face & up the open book corner, passing a 3rd b.r. to chains out right.

The face just left of Thunderflash. Bold up to the first carrot at 6-6.5m (hard to spot from ground), small gear to 2nd bolt at 12-13m, past 2 more bolts, then easier climbing & small gear to chains on C&H.

First crack of 4 on this face. Classic thin finger crack & face climbing. 2m r. of Fidelio.

3rd of the cracks on this face, 2m r. of Ready. Up crack on good gear & holds, to tree, then FH.

Nice face climbing to the left of the large chimney. Descend via chains at top of this route. One 60m rope will just get you to a safe ledge with rope stretch.

The thin crack, a couple of metres right & downhill from Thins. Small, but sufficient gear, then tricky mantle at ledge, then up slabby crack to alcove/cave and start of Ghostly Hand. The easiest exit from here is to down-climb to tree & chains above FF&CP.

The shallow corner, just R of Marshmallow. Bold climbing up to first bolt at 10m, over large flake & some friable rock, to 2nd bolt, continue up easier face/shallow corner, to 3rd bolt & top. Rap off cable around tree above Bailliere.

Shallow groove & left facing corner just R of TGR. Face climb the shallow alcove with just enough gear where you need it. TB on Bailliere.

The shallow groove 1.5m R of Going Up. Climbing is better than it looks from the ground. Belay from cable above Bailliere.

At the top of the gully: A little wall with a good fist corner in the middle.

1. 20m Up blocks for 20m to ledge & belay.

2. 20m Up steep RH crack from the ledge.

Can be done in one pitch.

First 20m or pitch; as for Minute Man, then the second half up the perfect fist crack corner to top.

A three star route!

Initialed: "V"

Up the Left facing corner. Hard technical laybacking.

History: first spotted & named by Ted Cais in '72.

Start: On the pillar below Wounded Bird, split by a hand crack.

Take the Left crack of the hand cracks. A hard start leads to a scrubby top-out.

"To the left of Tough Mamma is Dragon Woman 20, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From, which goes through a small roof." (Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977)

The thin crack immediately Left of Little Queen. Up this, through the small rooflet.

Start: At the flakes 6-8m R of Magician behind small tree.

1. Grovel up the flaring vegetated off-width (nasty start), and into chimney, then more grovelling up this. Step back L into the crack proper and follow to small niche above. Climb thru this & follow steep cracks to below loose flakes, up these & belay on loose pillar.

2. Climb corner & down L to TB and rap.

To avoid the tough direct start, take the overhanging flake/crack & step R into chimney and grovel up this.

Rest as per Enduro.