Ascensions dans Upper Cliff

An absolutely epic line! Mental crux was definitely the cavey bit at the top of P1, which ange crushed through on lead. Had my own little spicy moment on one of the overhangs later on. So good watching the sunset from the top, managed to make our way down the overgrown gully without having the cops called 😛

Such an awesome route and position. Charging to the top of old baldy blind had a feeling of old school adventure with the benefits of modern protection. The overhung crack and dihedral sections were great.

Access via Secret Swinger. The scramble up the left side of pedestal is a touch sketchy. Linked climb into 2 pitches. Tree anchors at the top are no longer usable, save some gear to build an anchor. The rap off stiletto gets you down to the base of the pedestal avoiding the dodgy down climb.

Epic views over the wolgan with a spicy chimney

Did the crack start not on top of the pedestal. Went into the climb blind. Did it in 4 pitches. Megafun with some terrifying moments in between. Accessed upper cliff via Ghoul

Such an amazing line! Ran out of gogo juice at the top of pitch 4. Covid sucks!

Absolutely superb. Links 4 or so really interesting features, all-out crack warfare. So good.

Excellent! Stunning and airy with a couple of stiff moves for the grade. Trees at the top are all burnt out – had to anchor off the only solid tree 15m from the edge, so watch your rope length on the last pitch!

Ripper of a climb, second pitch is siiick and the positioning is amazing. Good rock and gear but still a couple committing sections.

Great to get back to the Wolgan and finally do this. A mega classic in every sense. Amazing position, engaging climbing the whole way, with just a few tricky sections. Great gear the whole way. Linked pitches 1&2. Climbed it with a single 60m & a pull cord to rap off, but had some issues getting the rope knot over the edge at the top.

What a spectacular climb and position. I don't regret going up, even if it meant topping out at 7pm Earlier start next time though!

Was pretty tired and just aiming to make it up by pulling on things at various points, could definitely do it cleaner, except the little offwidth/face climbing bit near the top of pitch 4, which I found very difficult even after bailing back to the anchor and letting Dick lead it. May have just been exhaustion, not sure.

Adventure climbing at its finest.

The hike in to the base of Old Baldy is hard, there's so much overgrowth. Download the GPX file to your phone (see Approach)!

We climbed Secret Swinger to get to the ledge, and went around and up the pedestal on the right side (easier scramble). Started the climb by 2.45pm. In hindsight we should've bailed, but the 'fuck it we're here now, we got this' mentality prevailed.

Linked P1+P2 in a sublime long pitch, I loved every bit of it! So. Good! Beautiful jams, and getting over the roof was such a joy.

We slowed down a fair bit on P3 and P4, we were both pretty worn out from an intense weekend of adventure climbing. There's an unprotected offwidth on P4, only for a few moves, but it still got to me. Took a take to mentally prepare for it. Felt really good pushing through eventually. Topped out at 7pm.

Did the two raps back to the ledge, and thanks to GPS and Josephine Roper 's wicked night vision managed to find the Secret Swinger rap point in pitch black. Bush bashed our way back to camp in the shortest shortcut ever, 35min (over a 45min approach in the morning). Back at the car at 9pm (edit: 10pm). Wrecked. What a day. Mostly type 1 fun, the bits in the dark were type 2. A great day out.

Led all pitches. It was a little sandy

Beautiful. Easier, but more fun and engaging than Exalibur. Made the whole expedition worthwhile, and that's saying a lot. If I ever come back to Old Baldy, it'll be to lead this. Thank you james ritchie for making this all possible.

Excellent climb! Couple of steep moves and a nice wide chimney section to add to the joy of the long and sustained hand jam crack. Could probably do in one pitch with an 80 m rope if rope/placements managed well.

Superb.

Excellent fun! Mostly very juggy with only a couple of tricky sections. Some holds need to be handled gently. You can belay from pretty much wherever you like in the middle section of the wall. We did it in three pitches

Excellent climbing with some of the best exposure in the valley. Did in 2 pitches which worked well and sped things up

Great climbing with good exposure. Lots of ironstone ledges up a prominent crack. Mostly on-grade aside from chossy 1st pitch, coming out of cave on 2nd pitch, and a sting in the tail on the last pitch. I would grade 19 (as a 2nder at that). Gets shade from late morning.

Moves felt more like at least 19. A single set of wires came in handy but not needed. I took a double rack with extra .75, 1 and 2. This was plenty. Did this in three pitches but could be done in 2 if I hadn't accidentally stopped short of the top of pitch 3.

Lots more face holds and more 3D climbing than I expected. We climbed it in two pitches

Exposed jug run. Idk where it gets the grade. Good fun, lead in two pitches

Superb line. Too many gear placement opportunities. The best nut placements in the whole region.

Stunner of a line, stoked to tick this off the list. Feels well stiff for 17, maybe closer to 19 in a few sections but good gear where you need it. Stellar.

Classic! First pitch off the ledge superb and well protected. (I used 11 BRs and one 1 no 1. camalot) Second pitch a tiny bit easier but quite scary. Cams down low, and 4(?) BRs. Last pitch joins Scimitar.

Soooooo good. A lady ascent!

Linked p2+3.