Ascensions dans Scheabichl

Last year I belayed Pawel and I knew I wanted to do this route. This year I bouldered through the route on the first session and managed all moves. In total it took me 3 sessions and 9 goes (incl. checking out). Amazing climbing, and fits me very well so felt soft and went down fast. I did a double kneebar with no-hand rest (in the roof), never had trouble for the top part (after the kneebar). The lower part is also really nice. I had some problems getting into the final roof (undercling).

First first ascent. Starts Inshallah and after clipping the 5th bolt goes left (right below the bolt) to Harry has it all. Definitely harder than Harry has it all as it is longer and the start boulder is harder. Could be soft

Beautiful line. Could do all the moves first go, but took 3 sessions and probably around 9 tries to send. Really nice and pumpy. With good kneebar rest before the final hard boulder over the lip.

Benefieted from Rolands awesome beta to reach to top within my first try including a few big bodywaves downwards which I luckily saved! Somehow my first 8a flashh because normally, I prefer to go for the onsight directly:)

#2go After deciding to wear a kneepad the big kneebars almost turned out to be nohands;)Really struggled in this sequence the evening before with a bloody fingertip and lots of scratches above the knee but the next morning, it went down as the warmup surprisingly smoothly!

Tricky start followed by amazing endurance climbing on perfect shaped juggy holds:)

#2go Intense bouldery section where I found a lot of new pretty nice hook betas leading to a barely nohand in the corner tiring the legs finishing with a tension boulder on slopy edges:) perfect limestone-granite!

#2go

Such a good route. Pretty cool moves on amazing holds, none of them even just little sharp. Tried it for two days with different beta, then found the right beta for me today and managed to get an ascent of this beauty two tries after. Syked!

A fantastic line with perfect compression climbing and amazing holds.