Voies dans Eardley Escarpment pour la cotation selectionnée

Start at the right end of the face. Go up a few meters, then around the arete to a lower angle face and the top. Probably best as a top-rope route.

Start well up the hillside, on the west face of the cliff. Climb diagonally right up to the edge of the long horizontal overhang which splits the face. Move left to gain a set of cracks which are followed to the top.

Start up "Fire Free", traverse across to the arete, then finish up the arete.

The left-curving thin crack 2m to the right of "Fire Free", all the way to the top.

Finishes on a 2-bolt (with rap rings) anchor shared with "Fire Free".

Start below a smooth overhanging wall that is split by a thin crack, with a right-ascending ramp at the bottom.

Warning: ground-fall potential clipping 2nd bolt -- don't miss the clip.

Pull up onto an undercut face and move right to an obvious short dihedral. Follow this and exit via slabs above it to the top.

Start at the lip of the overhang at the obvious crack in the middle of the roof. Reach the first hold (step on a stone if necessary), and pull your way up to establish your feet on the face. Truly radical. (The crack on the roof at the bottom has been climbed on aid.)

Step onto the face from a boulder. Climb up and right into the corner. Follow the corner past two old in-situ pins, to the top.

Climb up the slab staying left of the flake crack past three bolts to an easier section. Climb through a steeper bulge above this and past two more bolts all the way to top anchors. Two rappels may be needed to come back down. Rappel anchors on the ledge at mid-height.

Start up to the first bolt of "Butt Cheeks", then go left up the wide over-hanging crack to a ledge, then up the face above.

Looks to be far harder than the (historical) 5.9 grade it has.

Climb the arete and mantel your way up to the bolt anchors. One cam after the first bolt is probably a good idea, and will protect you from a groundfall while clipping the 2nd bolt, but isn't absolutely necessary.

Climb up then left, following the obvious curving arch up to a big ledge. From the ledge, move up a into a scoop (crux), stepping left from a bolt, then up a crack/book to fixed anchors.

The crux is likely far harder than 5.9 -- but can be climbed A0 (clip bolt then pull).

Bolt line left of "Ethics Police".

High first bolt, but could maybe take gear at start?

Beware the top half of this climb gets hard fast and it can be tempting to travel off route to the sides. Beware, if you travel too far this could result in a nasty swing if on lead.

Bolt route squeezed in between "Ethics Police" and "Mr Clean". Occasionally borrows holds from each.

Goes at about 5.9 if you wander around a bit. Direct finish, up the smooth slab, probably harder, maybe 5.11ish?

1. (5.9) Follow the left line of bolts up a slab to a 2-bolt station. (8 bolts)
2. (5.9) Continue up as the route slightly steepens to the top. Can be combined with a 60m rope and 17 draws.

1. (5.7) Follow the right line of bolts up a slab to a two bolts station (8 bolts)
2. (5.9) Continue on past 8 more bolts to the top. Can be combined with a 60m rope and enough draws.

About halfway between Broken Corner and "Crack and Block" there is a faint vertical crack splitting the upper part of the face, start on some good holds then work your way up to the crack (the edge of the wide crack on the right is part of "Crack and Block", not this climb). No protection for the first part (the hard part), so top-rope (anchors for Broken Corner) may be preferred.

This is more of a V2 boulder problem, top-roped (because of the tumble-off at the landing) than a climbing route.

Start 6m right of of the arete of "Peggy". At a place where there is horizontal finger crack in the bright pink rock.

Climb up angling slightly rightwards towards the cave, then hand-traverse leftwards to a ledge below a crack that rises diagonally rightwards (visible bolt). Climb up this crack rightwards, then generally up and right following bolts to a shared anchor with "The Original Route" and "Lavender".

5 bolts + gear.

About 6m left of Piton Highway, climb up diagonally right to a small notch in the overhang, pull over at the right side of this notch, then traverse back leftwards to a thin crack (bolt). Climb up this, then up and leftwards following bolts to below the final anchor and straight up to it. Shares anchor with "The Original Route" and Rupert Bear.

Excellent climbing throughout

Starting a few meters left of Piton highway, there is a low bolt, start up to this, pulling the initial overhang very close to (unnamed 3) then follow the line of bolts that angles leftwards up the cliff.

Just left of Piton Highway is a sparse set of bolts heading up parallel to it. Climb the line defined by these bolts to an anchor a couple meters left of the Piton Highway anchor.

Climb up the bolt line on the right side of the face until the ledge (after the 5th bolt, where the route becomes far steeper and thinner), then traverse left and continue up the bolts for the left route, finally veering right again to finish on the anchor for the right bolt line.

Follow the right side of the arete. Rappel anchors at top.

Around the corner from Living Dead is this short route, following the left arete of a small face. Top-out and rappel off a pine tree -- or down climb the gully to climber's right.

SDS start in slot, then move left and use the many holds and lip to top out, or straight up

Climb the obvious crack

Difficult to locate. Ascend the scree field at the base of the upper headwall. Belay in a left to right slanting gully, where the vegetation gives way to rock.

1. (5.2 X) Climb up and right until the rock steepens, then go straight up to a grassy slope and traverse back left to a cedar tree belay. Loose and scary.
2. (5.7) Use the tree to et onto the rock. move up a couple of meters, then traverse left along an obvious easy line, underneath a long sloping overhang. Cross a depression in the rock, and step down to a big ledge.
3. (5.9) The long sloping overhang ends at a left-facing dihedral. Climb up this short overhanging corner above the belay (3 pins), then over a bird's nest and up to a wide ledge on the left. Make one hard ove up the overhanging wall above to easy ground.

Start a few meters right of the access trail, up a set of glue-ins.

Start up easy slab to steeper terrain, pull over the bulge to anchors.

Start in the corner 10m right of the start of Rocketman.

1. 5.9 Climb the wall on the right of a subsidiary corner up to a pin. Traverse diagonally left and pull round onto a slab. Cross the slab to belay at a large dead tree.
2. 5.7 Climb the corner crack behind the tree to easy ground. Belay below a short slab.
3. 5.3 Up the slab and around a flake on its right side. Continue easily upwards.
4. Finish easily, as for the second pitch of the Original Route.

A superb route which follows the obvious dihedral up the center of the cliff. Start 5m right of Original Route, at the base of an obvious corner.

1. (5.4) Follow the corner to ledges below an overhang.
2. (5.9) Step left and go up the lower section of the dihedral (usually wet, but not too difficult) to a good resting spot below the upper steeper section. Make some hard moves (crux) to get established in the upper dihedral, and follow it up to a good resting ledge. Continue up in the same line (still difficult) to the top.

Fun warm up. SDS on arete , up and traverse left.

Start left of the arete with a right hand undercling.

Stand start with left arete and right high jug. Fun warm-up

Follow crack up and right then onto jugs and flake. Keep going right around the corner and top out over Gonzo.

Stand start matched on side pull. Feet on big ledge. One move wonder to the top.

See beta here: https://youtu.be/9coHARx97OU

Start on small rock at base of boulder matched on the decent rail. Move up, trending right on good ledges and jugs.

Start matched on a good hold. Follow the jug life.

Climb using both rock.