A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. The Spot 49 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Spot 49 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles
Lat / Long: 44.800905, -63.145555
résumé
A good selection of moderate bolted routes and a few trad routes.
description
For the latest beta, approach info, access issues, history, and to support your local guides, buy a guidebook! https://rockclimbingnovascotia.com/
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Limitations de l'accès
There are several large No Parking signs at the cul-de-sac at the end of Bayers Mill Road. This is to allow emergency vehicles space to turn, as well as for school buses.
Please don't park in the circle - there's generally ample parking further up Bayers Mill Road, or in the main parking area for the Musquodoboit Rail Trail on Park Road.
approche
From Halifax, take Highway 7 or 107 to Musquodoboit Harbor. Pass though town and left onto Highway 357. Then turn right at Park Road and park in the main lot. Walk 600m north, past the apple trees, the bridge, and the lovely view. Just before the information sign you will see a gate on the left and a trail leading past a Private Property sign on the right. Take the trail to the right, which will cross a bridge and curve to the left and pass a pond on the right. This logging trail runs parallel to the main rail trail. Stay on the trail for ~5 mins. Past a couple of wet spots on the trail (which can be completely flooded in spring) you should see a narrow path on your right marked by a short rock cairn. Head down this path and break left on a narrower uphill trail opposite the hunting blind. The trail will then fork and take you to 1 of three different parts of the crag: Cat & Mouse on the right, Totally Industrial / Leave it to Beaver (and the sign in box) in the middle, or off to the left will take you over to Flakin' and beyond.
éthique
Leave no trace. This includes not spray painting the rocks or tossing cigarette butts around. You'd think that would be obvious, but here we are.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Cat and Mouse
Dihedral to overhang. Located on section right of the approach trail. FA: Todd Foster & Dave Wilsie | 5.10a | 11m, 6 | |||||
| 2 |
Who Needs Viagra
Slab and arete right of Cat and Mouse. FA: Dave Wilsie & Elizabeth Gilbert, 2014 | 5.8 | 14m, 4 | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ While You Were Sexting
Crack around the corner from Who Needs Viagra. FA: Dave Wilsie, 2014 | 5.7 G | 14m | |||||
| 4 |
Flavour Country
FA: Ray Seto | 5.6 G | ||||||
| 5 |
Masters of Destruction
FA: Mick Levin & Todd Foster, 2014 | 5.10b | ||||||
| 6 |
That's Inappropriate
FA: Todd Foster & Mick Levin, 2014 | 5.10d | ||||||
| 7 |
★ Leave it to Beaver
Bolted Crack dihedral next to Totally Industrial. FA: Sean Therien | 5.6 | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 8 |
Industrial Aid
FA: Jamie Simpson & Rich LaPaix, 2012 | C1 - 2 | ||||||
| 9 | ★★ Totally Industrial | 5.11a | ||||||
| 10 |
Totally Industrial Sport
FA: Nate Smith, 2010 | 5.11a | 20m | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Memories / Skanks for the Memories
FA: Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.8 | 20m, 3 | |||||
| 12 |
Peepshow
FA: Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.9 | 45m | |||||
| 13 |
★ Belly Button Window
Guidebook says 6 bolts for 40m, which seems either really R-rated, or under-reported. Or more bolts were added later? FA: Sean Therien, 2010 | 5.10b | 40m, 10 | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Whiskey and a Headlamp
Mixed route. 7 bolts, one G-rated crack. FA: Jamie Simpson & Rich LaPaix, 2012 | 5.9 G | 30m, 7 | |||||
| 15 |
★ Phat Tuesday Direct
Variation that goes directly up the prominent crack on the overhang above, with one medium cam. The start is the same. FA: Mick Levin, 2011 | 5.10a G | 45m, 13 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Phat Tuesday
Long sport climb up the slab (crux), left, right and up to the overhanging crack. skirt right and up the flake then either head up left or right of spruce tree to top anchors and a view. FA: Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.9 | 50m, 12 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Mr. T's Wild Ride
Climb the wall to the right of Phat Tuesday. Climb up and fight to notch in roof. FA: Sean Therien, 2010 | 5.10 | 50m, 10 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Tradasaurus
Climb first five bolts of Mr. T's Wild Ride, then head up the crack on the steep wall. FA: Jamie Simpson & Matt Walker, 2012 | 5.8 G | 20m, 5 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Flake'n / Flake'n on the Tard
Climb the face and arete to the left of Mr. T. This climb goes on for ever, with lots of rope drag unless you skip bolts FA: Sean Therien & Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.9 | 55m, 15 | |||||
| 20 |
You're So Hollywood
FA: Todd Foster & Nate Smith, 2010 | 5.9 | ||||||
| 21 |
★ Quagmire
Other side of the arete from Dripping Crack, ascends to the same hanging block and then up to the Hollywood Bowl section. Natural anchor (tree) can be used to rap down (to climber's right), or can walk left on the ledge to come down from the rap station above Moment of Silence. FA: Jamie Simpson & Zack Metcalf, 9 Nov. 2017 | 5.9 G | 15m | |||||
| 22 |
Dripping Crack
FA: Dave Willsie, 2010 | 5.4 - 6 | 15m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 23 |
★★★ Moment of Silence
See Rock Climbing Nova Scotia guidebook, p. 175 FA: Mick Levin, 11 Nov. 2017 | 5.11c | ||||||
| 24 |
Where the Sun Don't Shine
FA: Alec Manley | 5.11a | ||||||
| 25 |
★★ The Old In-and-Out / Baiting Bambi
scooped slab with cracked wall to the left. FFA: S. Therien & T. Foster FA: Sean Therien & Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.8 | 20m, 6 | |||||
| 26 |
Everybody's Baby
FA: Rodger Fage & Mick Levin Équip.: Todd Foster | 5.7 G | 17m | |||||
| 27 |
Twinkle Toes
Short slab climb. FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann, 2013 | 5.8 | 3 | |||||
| 28 |
March of Saints
FA: Matt Peck & Dave Willsie, 2011 | 5.10a | 4 | |||||
| 29 |
Percussion
FA: Matt Peck & Dave Willsie, 2011 | 5.11c | ||||||
| 30 |
★★ Parade
FFA: S Therien & T Foster | 5.10a | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 31 |
Temptation
FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann, 2014 | 5.11c | ||||||
| 32 |
Exsanguination
FFA: Seb Launcelot & M Loydd, 2010 | 5.10b | 20m | |||||
| 33 |
★★ Teenage Burnout
FFA: Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
| 34 |
Slice and Dice
FFA: Sean Therien & Dave Willsie, 2010 | 5.10a | 30m | |||||
| 35 |
★★ To Beep or Not to Beep
FA: Sean Therien, 2010 | 5.10d | 30m | |||||
/27/c0/27c0fd7942c0bc5b4d18cb5b5bc7cfa2c451aba9) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Bye Bye Beep
Climb the face to the left of the arête. Large holds lead to crack. Top anchor with two rings. Nice easy beginner lead. Somewhere around six bolts. FA: Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.6 | 20m | |||||
| 37 |
Cocksure
FFA: Mick Levin & Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.7 | 13m | |||||
| 38 |
★★ Knowledge Enema
FFA: Mick Levin & A Nette, 2010 | 5.8 | 13m | |||||
| 39 |
★ No Call Waiting
Start around the corner to the left of Knowledge Enema. Stem across the wide crack and move over onto the steep wall at the horizontal. Crux move on hidden hold get you established on the wall. Big holds and a scramble take you to the anchor, This climb was put up as an approach route for Safety is my Middle Name. FA: Alec Soucy & Todd Foster, 4 Juin 2018 | 5.9 | 20m, 5 | |||||
| 40 |
★ Safety is my Middle Name
From the anchors for No Call Waiting move up on big holds to a steeper section with strange holds. Continue up the bulge and finish on the slab FA: Todd Foster & Dave Wilsie, 2014 | 5.10a | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 41 |
Melrose Place
FA: Nate Smith & Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.10b | 13m | |||||
| 42 |
★★ Glamour Junkie
FA: Nate Smith & Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.11a | 13m, 4 | |||||
| 43 |
Pimp My Rack
FA: Nate Smith & Todd Foster, 2010 | 5.10c | 12m | |||||
| 44 |
Hide Your Wife, Hide Your Kids
FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann | 5.4 | ||||||
| 45 |
Underhanded By-Pass
FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann, 2013 | 5.9 | ||||||
| 46 |
Throat Punched
FA: Sean Therien, 2010 | 5.10b | 15m | |||||
| 47 |
Viva Las Vages
FA: DJ Dyno | 5.11b | 15m, 5 | |||||
Unsorted | ||||||||
| 49 |
Harder is My Safe Word
FA: Dan Jolivet, 30 Juin 2016 | 5.12a | ||||||
| 50 |
Scottish
FA: Matthew Peck & Dave MacFadden, 2 Fév 2019 | WI3+ M3/4 PG13 | 45m, 2 | |||||
