Aide

Dreistaffelfels Guide

  • Contexte de la cotation : UIAA
  • Photos : 4
  • Ascensions : 388

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Alma Campbell Gome Tom Bösl cooky Martin Skalli Klumpertal Michael Peter Betz Alex

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Dreistaffelfels 91 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saison

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.676802, 11.415035

Limitations de l'accès

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

hérité de Frankenjura Nord

approche

Bitte den Wanderparkplatz am Ortsausgang benutzen (49.677073, 11.413747). Please leave your car here (49.677073, 11.413747). Bitte aus Rücksicht auf die Anwohner nicht in die Straße Am Gerhardsfelsen fahren und NICHT auf der Wiese (49.677247, 11.414745) parken. Please don't use the lawn for parking.

éthique

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.
hérité de Frankenjura Nord

1.1. Betzensteiner Turm 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 49.676986, 11.415411

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ohne Bohrhaken 6 Trad
2 Terrorkrümel 5 Sportive
3 Bergseite / Westkante

FA: H. Selig, H. Roßkopf, H. Deinzer, H. Bauer & Trüberger, 1934

4+ Trad mixte 15m, 2
4 Direkte Bergseite 6 Sportive 10m, 3
5 Ostwand 7- Sportive
6 Covergirl 6 Sportive
7 Talseite

FA: Rudolf Buchner & E. Kißkalt, 1976

4+ Sportive 15m
8 Wunschkind 6- Sportive

1.2. Left 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.676640, 11.415356

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 R1 3+ Sportive
2 R2 4+ Sportive 18m
3 R2D2

FA: Torsten Schierz & Alma, 2011

5 Sportive 12m, 2
4 Unnamed 1 7 Sportive
5 Wand im Winkel

a variant, its the right exit of the unnamed climb to the left

7 Sportive
6 R3 6 Trad
7 R4 5- Sportive
8 Direktes Dessert

a direct start to "Dessert"

FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2012

7- Sportive
9 Pfeiler Buffet

FFA: Tom Bösl & Tom Bösl, 2022

7 Sportive 25m, 10
10 Dessert

FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2011

6 Sportive 15m
11 R5

Saniert

6-/6 Sportive 25m
12 R6 6- Sportive 18m, 6
13 Schlemmerkant'n

FFA: Tom Bösl & Tom Bösl, 2022

6+ Sportive 25m, 10
14 Nachspeise 7- Sportive
15 Platt'n Dessert

FFA: Tom Bösl & Tom Bösl, 2022

7- Sportive 14m, 6
16 Dritte Staffel

Quert am 3. Haken nach rechts

FA: Tom Bösl, 2022

FA: Tom Bösl, 2022

6 Sportive 18m, 7
17 R7 / Ostriss 4+ Sportive
18 Föhrenpfeiler 7- Sportive 18m
19 Röhrenteiler

FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2011

7- Sportive 18m, 4
20 Nordwand

Einstieg rechts an der Kante zu Haken links zum Ausstieg von Föhrenpfeiler

7- Sportive 18m, 3
21 Unterzoigl't

FA: 2022

FA: Tom Bösl, 2022

7 Sportive 8
22 Westriss 6- Sportive
23 Irgendwie und Sowieso

FA: Tom Bösl, 2022

6- Sportive 27m, 9
24 Mensch ärger di niad

Nur den Pfeiler klettern, nicht rechts in die Nachbarroute auskneifen

FA: Tom Bösl, 2022

FA: 2022

7+ Sportive 25m, 9
25 Dorn im Aug' ( Verschneidungvariante der Mensch ärger die niad)

AM 8. Haken rechtshaltend über Schlinge und Haken zum Umlenker.

FA: Tom Bösl, 2022

6- Sportive 27m, 9
26 Marienverschneidung 4+ Sportive 20m, 6
27 Direkte Marienwand

Direct exit (2 bolt and anchor) to the classic Marienwand

FA: Jan Luft, 2012

7- Sportive 20m
28 Marienpfeiler / Marienwandl Variante

FA: Leo Bleisteiner & F. Pabst, 1954

6+ Sportive 20m
29 Marienwandl 6 Sportive
30 Sounds Of War 7 Sportive
31 Maren's Geschenk 7- Sportive
32 Schattenschmuggler 6+ Sportive
33 BB-Wandl

FA: Günther Bram & Rudi Bülter, 1976

5+ Sportive 18m
34 Friedenspfeife 6 Sportive 15m, 3
35 Henkel Trocken 6+ Sportive

1.3. Right 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.676933, 11.414549

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Henkelkante Variante / Wasted Time 6+ Sportive 3
2 Henkelkante 6- Sportive 25m
3 Bambi von hinten

FA: Alma, 2011

6+ Sportive 15m
4 Feuerleiter 4+ Sportive
5 Bamberger Pfeiler 6- Sportive 18m
6 Enger Kamin 3 Sportive
7 Staffelei

FA: Alma, 2011

6 Sportive 26m
8 Dohlenweg 3+ Sportive 16m
9 Durstweg 4+ Sportive 20m
10 Jan-Becher-Gedenkweg

FA: Torsten Schierz & Alma, 2011

6- Trad 20m
11 Blizzard

FA: Jan Luft, 2012

7- Sportive 14m
12 Hintermayer Gedenkweg

FFA: Norbert Bätz

FA: P. Bogner & W. Klaus, 1966

8- Sportive 14m
13 Betzensteiner Verschneidung

FA: L. Schultheiß & A. Taumann, 1935

5+ Trad mixte 20m, 2
14 Heisse Sache 6+ Sportive
15 Pinguin 6+ Sportive
16 Marg(k)ante

FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2012

6 Sportive 8m, 1
17 Kursverfall 7 Sportive
18 Kaminfeger

left of the chimney

5+ Sportive
19 Westkamin 3 Sportive
20 Sommerswing

right of the chimney

5+ Sportive
21 BB-Riss 7 Sportive 14m
22 Café Ruhestörung 7+ Sportive
23 Unnamed 1 7- Sportive
24 Geschweifter Kamin 4 Sportive
25 Potzblitz 7 Sportive
26 Armriss 4+ Sportive
27 Nordwestwinkel 3 Sportive
28 Peterchens Mondflug

FA: P. Grimm, 2000

6 Sportive 2
29 Nordkamin 3 Sportive
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 Rampe 3 Sportive
31 Mantlewand 6+ Sportive
32 Bognerwandl 6+ Sportive 10m
33 Die Extrameile

FA: Burkhard Müller, 2021

6+ Sportive
34 Nix ist umsonst 6 Sportive 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
35 Nürnberger Weg 4 Sportive 23m
36 Iron Fist 6 Sportive 20m
37 Resterampe

FA: Alma, 2012

6 Trad 15m
38 Hungerrampe 4+ Sportive
39 Kleiner Engel 8+ Sportive
40 Kurz, aber geil

FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2012

7- Sportive 6m
41 Ostriss 4+ Sportive
42 Slepica - Einstiegsvariante

Left from "Slepica" to the first bolt

6- Sportive
43 Slepica 6- Sportive
44 Česnečka

FA: Alma, 2012

6+ Sportive 14m
45 Filmstar 6 Sportive
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
46 Ertappt 7- Sportive
47 Zeiserlfänger 5 Sportive
48 Charlie Brown´s Dream 7 Sportive

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
3 Enger Kamin Sportive 1.3. Right
Nordkamin Sportive 1.3. Right
Nordwestwinkel Sportive 1.3. Right
Rampe Sportive 1.3. Right
Westkamin Sportive 1.3. Right
3+ R1 Sportive 1.2. Left
Dohlenweg Sportive 16m 1.3. Right
4 Geschweifter Kamin Sportive 1.3. Right
Nürnberger Weg Sportive 23m 1.3. Right
4+ Bergseite Trad mixte 15m, 2 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm
Talseite Sportive 15m 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm
Marienverschneidung Sportive 20m, 6 1.2. Left
R2 Sportive 18m 1.2. Left
R7 Sportive 1.2. Left
Armriss Sportive 1.3. Right
Durstweg Sportive 20m 1.3. Right
Feuerleiter Sportive 1.3. Right
Hungerrampe Sportive 1.3. Right
Ostriss Sportive 1.3. Right
5- R4 Sportive 1.2. Left
5 Terrorkrümel Sportive 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm
R2D2 Sportive 12m, 2 1.2. Left
Zeiserlfänger Sportive 1.3. Right
5+ BB-Wandl Sportive 18m 1.2. Left
Betzensteiner Verschneidung Trad mixte 20m, 2 1.3. Right
Kaminfeger Sportive 1.3. Right
Sommerswing Sportive 1.3. Right
6- Wunschkind Sportive 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm
Dorn im Aug' ( Verschneidungvariante der Mensch ärger die niad) Sportive 27m, 9 1.2. Left
Irgendwie und Sowieso Sportive 27m, 9 1.2. Left
R6 Sportive 18m, 6 1.2. Left
Westriss Sportive 1.2. Left
Bamberger Pfeiler Sportive 18m 1.3. Right
Henkelkante Sportive 25m 1.3. Right
Jan-Becher-Gedenkweg Trad 20m 1.3. Right
Slepica Sportive 1.3. Right
Slepica - Einstiegsvariante Sportive 1.3. Right
6-/6 R5 Sportive 25m 1.2. Left
6 Covergirl Sportive 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm
Direkte Bergseite Sportive 10m, 3 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm
Ohne Bohrhaken Trad 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm
Dessert Sportive 15m 1.2. Left
Dritte Staffel Sportive 18m, 7 1.2. Left
Friedenspfeife Sportive 15m, 3 1.2. Left
Marienwandl Sportive 1.2. Left
R3 Trad 1.2. Left
Filmstar Sportive 1.3. Right
Iron Fist Sportive 20m 1.3. Right
Marg(k)ante Sportive 8m, 1 1.3. Right
Nix ist umsonst Sportive 18m 1.3. Right
Peterchens Mondflug Sportive 2 1.3. Right
Resterampe Trad 15m 1.3. Right
Staffelei Sportive 26m 1.3. Right
6+ Henkel Trocken Sportive 1.2. Left
Marienpfeiler Sportive 20m 1.2. Left
Schattenschmuggler Sportive 1.2. Left
Schlemmerkant'n Sportive 25m, 10 1.2. Left
Bambi von hinten Sportive 15m 1.3. Right
Bognerwandl Sportive 10m 1.3. Right
Die Extrameile Sportive 1.3. Right
Heisse Sache Sportive 1.3. Right
Henkelkante Variante Sportive 3 1.3. Right
Mantlewand Sportive 1.3. Right
Pinguin Sportive 1.3. Right
Česnečka Sportive 14m 1.3. Right
7- Ostwand Sportive 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm
Direkte Marienwand Sportive 20m 1.2. Left
Direktes Dessert Sportive 1.2. Left
Föhrenpfeiler Sportive 18m 1.2. Left
Maren's Geschenk Sportive 1.2. Left
Nachspeise Sportive 1.2. Left
Nordwand Sportive 18m, 3 1.2. Left
Platt'n Dessert Sportive 14m, 6 1.2. Left
Röhrenteiler Sportive 18m, 4 1.2. Left
Blizzard Sportive 14m 1.3. Right
Ertappt Sportive 1.3. Right
Kurz, aber geil Sportive 6m 1.3. Right
Unnamed 1 Sportive 1.3. Right
7 Pfeiler Buffet Sportive 25m, 10 1.2. Left
Sounds Of War Sportive 1.2. Left
Unnamed 1 Sportive 1.2. Left
Unterzoigl't Sportive 8 1.2. Left
Wand im Winkel Sportive 1.2. Left
BB-Riss Sportive 14m 1.3. Right
Charlie Brown´s Dream Sportive 1.3. Right
Kursverfall Sportive 1.3. Right
Potzblitz Sportive 1.3. Right
7+ Mensch ärger di niad Sportive 25m, 9 1.2. Left
Café Ruhestörung Sportive 1.3. Right
8- Hintermayer Gedenkweg Sportive 14m 1.3. Right
8+ Kleiner Engel Sportive 1.3. Right
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