A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Alma Joe Ska Campbell Gome Tom Bösl Christoph Rauch cooky Martin Skalli Klumpertal Michael Peter Betz Alex
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Dreistaffelfels
91 in Crag
- 1.1. Betzensteiner Turm 8 in Sector
- 1.2. Left 35 in Crag
- 1.3. Right 48 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Dreistaffelfels 91 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.676802, 11.415035
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
Limitations de l'accès
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
Please respect signs and zoning.
approche
Bitte den Wanderparkplatz am Ortsausgang benutzen (49.677073, 11.413747). Please leave your car here (49.677073, 11.413747). Bitte aus Rücksicht auf die Anwohner nicht in die Straße Am Gerhardsfelsen fahren und NICHT auf der Wiese (49.677247, 11.414745) parken. Please don't use the lawn for parking.
éthique
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1.1. Betzensteiner Turm 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle
Lat / Long: 49.676986, 11.415411
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ohne Bohrhaken | 6 | ||||
2 | Terrorkrümel | 5 | ||||
3 |
★ Bergseite / Westkante
FA: H. Selig, H. Roßkopf, H. Deinzer, H. Bauer & Trüberger, 1934 | 4+ | 15m, 2 | |||
4 | ★ Direkte Bergseite | 6 | 10m, 3 | |||
5 | ★ Ostwand | 7- | ||||
6 | Covergirl | 6 | ||||
7 |
★ Talseite
FA: Rudolf Buchner & E. Kißkalt, 1976 | 4+ | 15m | |||
8 | Wunschkind | 6- |
1.2. Left 35 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.676640, 11.415356
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | R1 | 3+ | ||||
2 | ★ R2 | 4+ | 18m | |||
3 |
★ R2D2
FA: Torsten Schierz & Alma, 2011 | 5 | 12m, 2 | |||
4 | Unnamed 1 | 7 | ||||
5 |
Wand im Winkel
a variant, its the right exit of the unnamed climb to the left | 7 | ||||
6 | R3 | 6 | ||||
7 | R4 | 5- | ||||
8 |
Direktes Dessert
a direct start to "Dessert" FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2012 | 7- | ||||
9 |
★★ Pfeiler Buffet
FFA: Tom Bösl & Tom Bösl, 2022 | 7 | 25m, 10 | |||
10 |
Dessert
FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2011 | 6 | 15m | |||
11 |
★ R5
Saniert | 6-/6 | 25m | |||
12 | R6 | 6- | 18m, 6 | |||
13 |
★★ Schlemmerkant'n
FFA: Tom Bösl & Tom Bösl, 2022 | 6+ | 25m, 10 | |||
14 | Nachspeise | 7- | ||||
15 |
★★ Platt'n Dessert
FFA: Tom Bösl & Tom Bösl, 2022 | 7- | 14m, 6 | |||
16 |
★ Dritte Staffel
Quert am 3. Haken nach rechts FA: Tom Bösl, 2022 FA: Tom Bösl, 2022 | 6 | 18m, 7 | |||
17 | R7 / Ostriss | 4+ | ||||
18 | ★ Föhrenpfeiler | 7- | 18m | |||
19 |
Röhrenteiler
FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2011 | 7- | 18m, 4 | |||
20 |
Nordwand
Einstieg rechts an der Kante zu Haken links zum Ausstieg von Föhrenpfeiler | 7- | 18m, 3 | |||
21 |
★★ Unterzoigl't
FA: 2022 FA: Tom Bösl, 2022 | 7 | 8 | |||
22 | ★★ Westriss | 6- | ||||
23 |
★★ Irgendwie und Sowieso
FA: Tom Bösl, 2022 | 6- | 27m, 9 | |||
24 |
★ Mensch ärger di niad
Nur den Pfeiler klettern, nicht rechts in die Nachbarroute auskneifen FA: Tom Bösl, 2022 FA: 2022 | 7+ | 25m, 9 | |||
25 |
★★ Dorn im Aug' ( Verschneidungvariante der Mensch ärger die niad)
AM 8. Haken rechtshaltend über Schlinge und Haken zum Umlenker. FA: Tom Bösl, 2022 | 6- | 27m, 9 | |||
26 | Marienverschneidung | 4+ | 20m, 6 | |||
27 |
Direkte Marienwand
Direct exit (2 bolt and anchor) to the classic Marienwand FA: Jan Luft, 2012 | 7- | 20m | |||
28 |
★★ Marienpfeiler / Marienwandl Variante
FA: Leo Bleisteiner & F. Pabst, 1954 | 6+ | 20m | |||
29 | Marienwandl | 6 | ||||
30 | Sounds Of War | 7 | ||||
31 | Maren's Geschenk | 7- | ||||
32 | Schattenschmuggler | 6+ | ||||
33 |
★★ BB-Wandl
FA: Günther Bram & Rudi Bülter, 1976 | 5+ | 18m | |||
34 | Friedenspfeife | 6 | 15m, 3 | |||
35 | Henkel Trocken | 6+ |
1.3. Right 48 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.676933, 11.414549
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Henkelkante Variante / Wasted Time | 6+ | 3 | |||||
2 | Henkelkante | 6- | 25m | |||||
3 |
Bambi von hinten
FA: Alma, 2011 | 6+ | 15m | |||||
4 | Feuerleiter | 4+ | ||||||
5 | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler | 6- | 18m | |||||
6 | Enger Kamin | 3 | ||||||
7 |
★★ Staffelei
FA: Alma, 2011 | 6 | 26m | |||||
8 | ★ Dohlenweg | 3+ | 16m | |||||
9 | ★ Durstweg | 4+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
Jan-Becher-Gedenkweg
FA: Torsten Schierz & Alma, 2011 | 6- | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★ Blizzard
FA: Jan Luft, 2012 | 7- | 14m | |||||
12 |
★★ Hintermayer Gedenkweg
FFA: Norbert Bätz FA: P. Bogner & W. Klaus, 1966 | 8- | 14m | |||||
13 |
★★ Betzensteiner Verschneidung
FA: L. Schultheiß & A. Taumann, 1935 | 5+ | 20m, 2 | |||||
14 | Heisse Sache | 6+ | ||||||
15 | Pinguin | 6+ | ||||||
16 |
Marg(k)ante
FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2012 | 6 | 8m, 1 | |||||
17 | Kursverfall | 7 | ||||||
18 |
Kaminfeger
left of the chimney | 5+ | ||||||
19 | Westkamin | 3 | ||||||
20 |
★ Sommerswing
right of the chimney | 5+ | ||||||
21 | ★★ BB-Riss | 7 | 14m | |||||
22 | ★ Café Ruhestörung | 7+ | ||||||
23 | ★★ Unnamed 1 | 7- | ||||||
24 | Geschweifter Kamin | 4 | ||||||
25 | Potzblitz | 7 | ||||||
26 | ★ Armriss | 4+ | ||||||
27 | Nordwestwinkel | 3 | ||||||
28 |
Peterchens Mondflug
FA: P. Grimm, 2000 | 6 | 2 | |||||
29 | Nordkamin | 3 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
30 | Rampe | 3 | ||||||
31 | ★ Mantlewand | 6+ | ||||||
32 | ★ Bognerwandl | 6+ | 10m | |||||
33 |
Die Extrameile
FA: Burkhard Müller, 2021 | 6+ | ||||||
34 | Nix ist umsonst | 6 | 18m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
35 | ★★ Nürnberger Weg | 4 | 23m | |||||
36 | ★ Iron Fist | 6 | 20m | |||||
37 |
Resterampe
FA: Alma, 2012 | 6 | 15m | |||||
38 | ★ Hungerrampe | 4+ | ||||||
39 | ★★ Kleiner Engel | 8+ | ||||||
40 |
★ Kurz, aber geil
FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2012 | 7- | 6m | |||||
41 | Ostriss | 4+ | ||||||
42 |
Slepica - Einstiegsvariante
Left from "Slepica" to the first bolt | 6- | ||||||
43 | Slepica | 6- | ||||||
44 |
Česnečka
FA: Alma, 2012 | 6+ | 14m | |||||
45 | Filmstar | 6 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
46 | Ertappt | 7- | ||||||
47 | Zeiserlfänger | 5 | ||||||
48 | ★ Charlie Brown´s Dream | 7 |