A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Wichsenstein / Wannbach
273 in Area
- 1.1. Urspringer Wand / Sperberfels 5 in Crag
- 1.2. Frauentormauer 7 in Cliff
-
1.3.
Röthelfels / Rötelfels 201 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Weiße Wand 10 in Sector
- 1.3.2. Left 47 in Sector
- 1.3.3. Main 111 in Sector
- 1.3.4. Right 25 in Sector
- 1.3.5. Hermine Müller 8 in Sector
- 1.4. Angerstein / Gansfels 11 in Crag
- 1.5. Lochturm 10 in Crag
- 1.6. Spitzenstein 12 in Crag
- 1.7. Hängender Block 7 in Crag
- 1.8. Kleiner Spitzenstein 8 in Crag
- 1.9. Buckenreuther Pfeiler 6 in Crag
- 1.10. Krausenberg 6 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Wichsenstein 273 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.750060, 11.245570
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
Limitations de l'accès
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
Please respect signs and zoning.
éthique
1.1. Urspringer Wand 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalade sportive et Escalade artificielle
Lat / Long: 49.755596, 11.234689
résumé
Nice east-facing crag which had (almost) been forgotten, has a nice range of grades and just enough climbs for an autumn afternoon.
description
The routes have been cleaned up; Manuel Welt and Johannes Seitz placed rings at the top so nobody has to rap off the poor tree anymore. There were some older lines but they will most likely never see another repeat.
Limitations de l'accès
This crag is usually closed from January 1 until July 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!
Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Januar bis 31. Juli gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!
approche
Drive up the Trubach valley to Wannbach, turn here for Urspring. In the village, drive uphill towards Moggast for about 400m until a little dirt track heads left. Park here without blocking the track. Walk up to the forest, turn right and follow the track further uphill until you can see the crag above.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Urspringer Wand
FA: Paul Schelhorn | 5+ A1 | ||||
| 2 |
★★ Begradigung
Starts together with direkter Freundschaftsweg, then right under the rooflet and over it at the bolt. It joins the corner higher up and ends out left. | 6 | 5 | |||
| 3 |
★★ Direkter Freundschaftsweg
Start in the corner, them up the faint Crackline. | 8- | ||||
| 4 |
★★ Weg der alten Kameraden
This starts on the right and heads up the impressive looking headwall. | 8+ | ||||
| 5 |
Freundschaftsweg
This links Weg der Kameraden with direkter Freundschaftsweg. | 6- | ||||
1.2. Frauentormauer 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.747491, 11.259317
description
Sonniger Felsen mit überwiegend plattigen Routen in festem Fels. Um Ärger mit dem Grundstückseigner zu vermeiden, bitte bei mehreren Seilschaften auf andere Felsen ausweichen.
approche
Vom ausgewiesenen Wanderparkplatz 50m Richtung Morschreuth und dann rechts dem Feldweg folgen. Im Wald rechts halten und dann auf dem Trampelpfad geradeaus zum Fels.
historique
Neu erschlossene Wand (2023) von Manuel Welt, Johannes Seitz und Ralf Schmitt.
/61/9c/619c75565f3355d884605fd1fef27e99f003d1a1) /b4/34/b434ebebf5661d08d03f47a99963acfc9f8e8b3c) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Kolonnenverkehr
Schöne Kantenkletterei, top abgesichert. FA: Manuel Welt, 2023 | 6 | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Gräfenberg-Punkt
Crux am Einstieg, danach löst es sich sehr schön auf. FA: Manuel Welt, 2023 | 7- | 11m, 4 | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ Stimulationsmeile
Guter Fels, Griffkombination schwer erkennbar. FA: Ralf Schmitt, 2023 | 6+ | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Boulevard der Eitelkeiten
Tolle Plattenkletterei an guten Löchern. FA: Manuel Welt, 2023 | 7 | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Kletterpuff Frankenjura
Überhängende Henkelei an guten Griffen, am 2ten Haken schwer. FA: Johannes Seitz, 2023 | 7- | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 6 |
Frauentorgraben
Teilt sich Einstieg mit "Schaufenster zum Abgrund", nach dem 2ten Haken mobile Sicherungen möglich. FA: Manuel Welt, 2023 | 6- | 13m, 2 | |||||
| 7 |
Schaufenster zum Abgrund
Trickreich. FA: Manuel Welt, 2023 | 6 | 12m, 4 | |||||
1.3. Röthelfels 201 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.747648, 11.245776
- Left sectors (
49.7543182, 11.2571517) - Central sectors (49.74422, 11.24844)
- Right sectors (49.749604, 11.2591377)
Limitations de l'accès
Parts of this crag are usually closed from February 1 until June 30. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!
Teile dieses Felsens sind üblicherweise von 1. Februar bis 30. Juni gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!
approche
Parking:
1.3.1. Weiße Wand 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.748291, 11.242801
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Hallo Horst
FFA: Sven König, 2007 | 7- | 25m | |||
| 2 |
★★ Weiße Wand
FA: Fritz Sticht, 1949 | 7- | 25m | |||
| 3 |
★★ Wolkensteiner Weg
FFA: Sven König, 2007 | 8+ | 25m | |||
| 4 |
★★ Dicke Helga
FA: Lena Böhm, 2019 | 8- | 25m | |||
| 5 |
★★★ Bilderbuch
FFA: Sven König, 2005 | 8 | 25m | |||
| 6 |
★★ Prime Time
FFA: Julian Söhnlein, 2016 | 10- | 25m | |||
| 7 |
Vollhorst
Équip.: Rainer Thron FFA: Julian Söhnlein, 2019 | 10+ | 32m | |||
| 8 |
★★★ Jenseits von gut und böse
FFA: Rainer Thron, 2011 | 9 | 32m | |||
| 9 |
★★ Hier geblieben!
FFA: Dominik Frenzel, 2007 | 8 | 22m | |||
| 10 |
★ Nix wie weg!
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 2002 | 8- | 20m | |||
1.3.2. Left 47 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.747979, 11.243977
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Freude mit Frenzel | ||||||||
| 2 |
★ Black Mamba
FFA: Bernhard Mai, 2008 | 8+ | 12m | |||||
| 3 |
Wie von Geisterhand
FFA: Joshua Schulz, 2017 | 9- | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Asana
FA: Annette Roeder, 2007 | 7+ | 12m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Noch hält's
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 2002 | 7- | 12m | |||||
| 6 |
Ende Gelände
FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 2011 | 7- | 20m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Please Don't Touch
FFA: Paul Ludwinski, 2009 | 8+ | 20m | |||||
| 8 |
★ Acht plus geschenkt
FFA: Birgit Wilfert, 2007 | 8+ | 20m | |||||
| 9 | Paul Preuß Gedenkweg | 7 | 25m | |||||
| 10 |
Anheizer
FFA: Bernd Wislicenus, 2008 | 5+ | ||||||
| 11 | ★ Anheizer + R125 | 8 | 20m | |||||
| 12 |
★★ R 125 / Im Jahr des Röthels
FFA: Burkhard Müller, 2007 | 8+ | 20m | |||||
| 13 |
★ Kleines Fischstäbchen
FFA: Alexandra Perwitzschky, 2007 | 8 | 20m | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Locomotive Breath
FFA: Burkhard Müller, 2007 | 8+ | 20m | |||||
| 15 |
Toller Hecht
FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2007 | 9 | 20m | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Via Donatella
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 2002 | 7- | 20m | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Frenzel Direkt
FFA: Burkhard Müller, 2007 | 7+ | 20m | |||||
| 18 |
★ Freude mit Frenzel
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 2002 | 5- | 18m | |||||
| 19 |
Kollis Resterampe
FFA: Burkhard Müller, 2007 | 6- | 18m | |||||
| 20 |
★ W-E-H
FFA: Tom Heinze & Jürgen Kollert, 2002 | 6 | 17m | |||||
Felsentorwand | ||||||||
| 22 | ★ Felsentorweg | 5 | 30m | |||||
| 23 | ★ 4 love | 6- | 25m | |||||
| 24 |
★ Formicula
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 2002 | 6- | 25m | |||||
| 25 |
★★ Wutz Wulle
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 2002 | 6+ | 25m | |||||
| 26 | ★★ Paul | 8- | 20m | |||||
| 27 | ★ Derham is derham | 6- | 25m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Götterbogen / Devil's Crack | ||||||||
| 29 |
★★★ Götterbogen
FFA: Tom Emsperger | 7 | 12m | |||||
| 30 |
Torschlusspanik
FFA: Dominik Frenzel, 2007 | 7- | 10m | |||||
| 31 |
★★ Mollenfriedhof
FFA: Dominik Frenzel, 2007 | 7- | 15m | |||||
| 32 |
★ K.A.-Riss
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1977 | 5+ | 12m | |||||
| 33 |
★★ Herbstzauber
FFA: Sven König, 1992 | 9- | 15m | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Hüftgold
FFA: Dominik Frenzel, 2007 | 8- | 15m | |||||
| 35 |
★ Ein Hauch von Provence
FFA: Sven König, 2007 | 7+ | 15m | |||||
| 36 |
★ Flower Hour
FFA: Moritz Perwitzschky, 2018 | 9 | 15m | |||||
| 37 |
★ R.P.-Riss
FA: Rainer Pickl, 1978 | 6 | 15m | |||||
| 38 |
Kurz und knapp
FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 2012 | 8- | 15m | |||||
| 39 |
★ Geierwally
FA: Immo Engelhardt | 8- | 25m, 5 | |||||
| 40 |
★★ Gerades Geiereck / D.C.-Riss
FA: Dieter Cukrowski, 1950 | 6 | 25m | |||||
| 41 |
★★★ Devil's Crack
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1977 | 7 | 25m | |||||
Harry und Bobby | ||||||||
| 43 |
★★ Altes Geiereck
FA: Jakl Kilian | 5 | 30m | |||||
| 44 |
Teufelsritt
FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 2017 | 9/9+ | 25m | |||||
| 45 |
★★★ Pleitegeier
FFA: Horst Fürsattel, 1983 | 8 | 25m | |||||
| 46 |
★ Zwischendurch
FFA: Immo Engelhardt | 7 | 25m, 6 | |||||
| 47 |
★ Eibenriss
FA: Karl Thon & Josef Ziegler, 1969 | 6- | 25m | |||||
| 48 |
★ Harry-und-Bobby-Weg
FA: Hans Treuheit, 1981 | 7 | 25m | |||||
| 49 |
★ Merklriss
Climb the slightly overhanging corner/crack and continue onto the slab keeping left. Finish up the dihedral to the left of the headwall (finish of Altes Geiereck). | 5+ | 25m | |||||
| 50 |
★ Merklriss rechter Ausstieg
Start as for "Merklriss". In the slab, keep slightly right instead (run it out or place nuts and slings). Either continue with the upper part of "Mori und Jojo" or bail out right into easy terrain (original variant, no anchor). | 6 | 25m | |||||
| 51 |
Mori und Jojo
FFA: Sven König, 2007 | 7- | 25m | |||||
1.3.3. Main 111 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.747451, 11.246327
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Versteckte Wand | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★ Die neue Linke
FFA: Gerlinde Regenauer, 2018 | 4+ | 25m | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Rötheltrödel | 5+ | 26m | |||||
| 4 | ★ Weg der Rötelzwerge | 6- | 30m | |||||
| 5 | ★ Sonnenplatte | 6+ | 25m | |||||
| 6 | ★ Gruftitreffen | 5 | 16m | |||||
| 7 |
Für die Cuts
FFA: Sebastian Rottmann, 2017 | 9 | ||||||
| 8 | Proj4 | 30m | ||||||
| 9 |
★★ Des Wahnsinns fette Beute
FFA: Sven König, 2007 | 9- | 15m | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Reise nach Jerusalem
Starts off the ramp. FFA: Birgit Kraft & Sven König, 2007 | 8/8+ | 15m | |||||
Astronautenleiter | ||||||||
| 12 | ★★ Sonntagsspaziergang | 6+ | 20m | |||||
| 13 |
★ Via Margit
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1997 | 6 | 20m | |||||
| 14 |
Lenny
FFA: 2005 | 8- | 20m | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Hermann Buhl Gedenkweg
FA: Ernst Straßner & Hugo Walther, 1956 | 8+ | 30m | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Hebendanz
FFA: Alexander Neubauer, 2006 | 9- | 25m | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Amazing
Rechts vom Hebendanz. 9 Haken + Umlenker FA: Sebastian Schwertner, 12 Nov. | 10- | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Alde Worschdhaud
FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 2009 | 8 | 25m | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Scheide / Scheide Plaisirvariante
Ends halfway on a ledge FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1982 | 8 | 15m | |||||
| 20 |
Scheide Original P2
Hardly ever done today, airy traverse to the left from the belay ledge to "Hermann Buhl Gedenkweg". FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1982 | 10m | ||||||
| 21 |
Astronautenleiter
FA: Ernst Straßner & Ernst Veith, 1968 | 5 A2 | 35m, 2 | |||||
| 22 |
★ Penis
FA: H. Längner, 2010 | 9 | ||||||
| 23 | Halbe Sache | 9 | 18m | |||||
| 24 | Acht Kilo zu viel | 9- | 18m | |||||
| 25 |
★★★ Welzenbach Gedenkweg
FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981 | 9+ | 25m | |||||
| 26 | Werner Grummich Gedenkweg | 8 | 25m | |||||
| 27 |
Galaxie
FA: Ernst Straßner & Ernst Veith, 1971 | 5- A2 | 40m, 2 | |||||
Teufelskralle | ||||||||
| 29 |
Klaus Heitz Gedenkweg / Pulsar
FFA: Alexander Neubauer, 2019 | 9 | ||||||
| 30 |
★ R3 / Eckpfeiler
FA: Paul Späth & H. Haas, 1929 FA: Jakl Kilian, 1930 | 5+ | 50m, 3, 7 | |||||
| 31 |
Jubiläumsweg
joins R3 for a few meters in the middle to then break out left to anchor below rooflet FA: Rudl Buchner, 1972 | 8+ | 25m, 2 | |||||
| 32 |
Linda's Lovely Lipstick
joins Jubiläumsweg but ends in the middle just below a rusty peg | 6 | 22m | |||||
| 33 |
★★ Safari
shares the same start as LLL but finds a way up after the 5th bolt | 8- | 30m, 7 | |||||
| 34 |
★ R3a / Fürther Weg
FA: J. Bösenecker & Rudi Bülter, 1964 | 5+ | 30m, 5 | |||||
| 35 | ★★ Falco | 8+ | 35m | |||||
| 36 | ★ R3b / Erlanger Weg | 6 | 25m | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Damokleskante
FFA: Annette Roeder & Burkhard Müller, 2007 | 6+ | 35m, 2 | |||||
| 38 | Teufelskrallenweg | 6+ | 25m | |||||
| 39 |
★ R18
FA: Ernst Straßner & Ernst Veith, 1972 | 6+ | 25m | |||||
| 40 | ★ Break Out | 8- | 20m | |||||
| 41 |
★ R17
FA: Ernst Straßner & Ernst Veith, 1972 | 7+ | 25m | |||||
| 42 | ★★ Spannungsfeld | 7+ | 25m | |||||
Grautvornix | ||||||||
| 44 | ★★★ Lebe deinen Traum | 7+ | 25m | |||||
| 45 |
★ R8b
FA: Bernhard Schleßinger & Kurt Schleßinger, 1972 | 8- | 25m | |||||
| 46 |
R8
FA: Jakl Kilian, 1930 | 6+ | 30m | |||||
| 47 |
★★ Schwarzer Riss
FA: Fritz Teifel & Fritz Fach, 1931 | 6 | 30m, 4 | |||||
| 48 | ★★ Macht mir nix | 7+ | 32m, 4 | |||||
| 49 |
★★ Grautvornix
Take some gear for the beginning, it's not very difficult though | 7+ | 35m, 3 | |||||
| 50 | ★ Frankenschotter | 7 | 25m | |||||
| 51 |
★★ R7
FA: Jakl Kilian, 1930 | 6 | 35m | |||||
| 52 |
★ Direkte R7 / Büßerriss
FA: Rudi Bülter & J. Bösenecker, 1965 | 7- | 35m | |||||
| 53 |
Senza Fede
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1998 | 8- | 35m | |||||
Knox | ||||||||
| 55 |
★★ Gelbe Wand / R7b
FA: Kurt Schleßinger & Bernhard Schleßinger, 1972 FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1982 | 8 | 28m | |||||
| 56 |
★★ Für Dich
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1990 | 7 | 28m | |||||
| 57 | ★ RSK2 | 5+ | 35m | |||||
| 58 | ★ RSK | 5+ | 35m | |||||
| 59 | Rampfriss | 4+ | 35m | |||||
| 60 |
Roccia o amore
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1998 | 7+ | 28m | |||||
| 61 | ★ Knox | 7 | 28m | |||||
| 62 | Sefftl | 6+ | 35m | |||||
| 63 | ★ R9 | 6 | 30m, 7 | |||||
| 64 | R9b | 6 | 30m | |||||
| 65 | ★ R9a | 6 | 30m, 6 | |||||
| 66 |
★ Bruder Jakob
FA: Matthias Engelhardt, 2017 | 4 | 15m, 4 | |||||
Kleines Zebra | ||||||||
| 68 | ★ R16 | 5- | 22m, 3 | |||||
| 69 |
Edzerdla hammers
Alerte Roche: Felsausbruch | 6- | 35m | |||||
| 70 | Promenade | 3+ | 35m | |||||
| 71 |
★★ Il padrone di Drena
FA: Jürgen Kollert, 2005 | 7- | 30m, 7 | |||||
| 72 |
★ R6k
FA: Ernst Straßner & Ernst Veith, 1972 | 6 | 35m | |||||
| 73 |
★★ R6
FA: Jakl Kilian, 1930 | 5+ | 35m | |||||
| 74 |
★★ Per Gabi
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1998 | 6+ | 33m | |||||
| 75 | Kreuzbandriss | 7- | 6 | |||||
| 76 |
★★ Kleines Zebra
FA: Jürgen Kollert, 1988 | 7- | 33m, 8 | |||||
| 77 |
★★ Kreuzweg
FA: Waldemar Engel, 1987 | 6+ | 33m | |||||
| 78 |
★★ Gerade R6
FA: W. Haas & K. Vogler, 1934 | 5- | 35m, 5 | |||||
| 79 |
★ Six O Clog
FFA: Kurt Albert & Konni Nebel, 1977 | 6 | 35m | |||||
| 80 |
★★ Depotweg
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1977 | 7 | 20m | |||||
Ratte | ||||||||
| 82 | ★ Sortie Blanche | 6 | 35m | |||||
| 83 | ★ Höhlenweg | 5- | 35m | |||||
| 84 |
★ Grüner Engel
FFA: Matthias Engelhardt, 2005 | 6+ | 15m | |||||
| 85 |
★★ Linksdiagonale
FA: Rudolf Buchner & Eva Wollrab, 1970 | 4+ | 35m | |||||
| 86 |
★★ Gerade R4
FA: Jakl Kilian, 1930 | 4+ | 35m, 3 | |||||
| 87 |
★★ Ratte
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1998 | 6+ | 30m, 8 | |||||
| 88 |
★★ Rattenfänger
FFA: Albert Engelhardt | 6+ | 25m | |||||
| 89 |
★★ Pfeilerkopfweg / R4
FA: Paul Späth, 1929 | 5- | 35m | |||||
| 90 |
Retroalpin
Access through 'Pfeilerkopfweg'. Three rosty pitons. | 6 | ||||||
| 91 |
Verbohrte Szene
Start up R4 and from the pillar straight up over a sling and two bolts to the anchor. FFA: Immo Engelhardt, 2015 | 6- | 25m | |||||
| 92 |
★★ Rechtsdiagonale / R4a
Long traverse to the anchor of Schleßingerweg. FA: K. Ritzmann & H. Kotz, 1962 | 5- | 35m | |||||
| 93 |
★★ Immos delight
Right of "Rechtsdiagonale" | 5- | 25m, 3 | |||||
| 94 |
★ Kleiner Dicker
Starts in the corner and takes the left line up to the very top, and this is where the business is! FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 2005 | 7 | 32m, 2 | |||||
| 95 |
★★ Kleiner Bär
The second line just to the right of the corner, the first bolt is a fixed hanger. FA: Jürgen Kollert, 1990 | 5+ | 30m | |||||
| 96 |
★★ Schleßingerweg / R4b
Start as for "Kleiner Bär", then rightwards after the first bolt. After the third, it arches right and back into line later. FA: Kurt Schleßinger & Bernhard Schleßinger, 1969 | 6 | 30m, 6 | |||||
| 97 |
★ Idealweg
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1978 | 6+ | 30m, 4 | |||||
Freundschaft | ||||||||
| 99 |
★★ Bubo Bubo
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1990 | 7+ | 20m | |||||
| 100 |
★ Direkter Freundschaftsweg / Tschechenweg
If you are solid in the grade, leave your gear behind, it's fine without. However it's run out to the chain. FA: G. Großmann & Czech climbers, 1972 | 6- | 25m, 4 | |||||
| 101 | Fuck | 7+ | 25m | |||||
| 102 |
★ Feindschaft
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980 | 7- | 25m, 4 | |||||
| 103 |
★★ Feindschaft Direkt
FFA: Horst Fürsattel, 1982 | 7 | 25m | |||||
| 104 |
★★ Hohl
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1998 | 7- | 20m | |||||
| 105 |
★★ Freundschaftsweg
FA: Wilhelm Niebler, F. Bauernschmidt & S. Mostbeck, 1931 | 5 | 30m, 4 | |||||
| 106 |
★ Rechte Freundschaft
FFA: Immo Engelhardt, 2018 | 6 | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 107 |
Herbstweg
FFA: Immo Engelhardt, 2015 | 6 | ||||||
| 108 |
★ Rechtsabbieger
Starts left of "Frühlingsweg". Over to 2 bolts to thread of Frühlingsweg and cross it to right. | 5+ | 30m | |||||
| 109 | ★★ Frühlingsweg | 5- | 25m | |||||
Daniel | ||||||||
| 111 | ★ Röthelfieber | 7- | 30m | |||||
| 112 | ★★ Zinnober | 6- | 30m, 7 | |||||
| 113 | ★★ Zinnenwand | 5- | 30m, 7 | |||||
| 114 | ★★ Daniel Westseite | 2 | 20m | |||||
| 115 | ★ Südostkante | 6- | 30m | |||||
| 116 |
★★ Zinnenweg
Exposed traverse through the south face of the tower in the first pitch. Original second pitch traverses back left into Zinnenwand after stepping off the summit. FA: Konrad Oed, 1930 | 5+ | 40m, 2, 4 | |||||
| 117 |
★★★ Kokolores
FFA: Konrad Falk, 1994 | 6 | 30m | |||||
| 118 | Spannungsfeld der Sinne | 6+ | 30m | |||||
| 119 |
★ Daniel Südwand
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1977 | 7- | 30m | |||||
| 120 |
★ Daniela
FFA: Immo Engelhardt, 1994 | 7+ | 30m | |||||
1.3.4. Right 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle
Lat / Long: 49.747344, 11.248259
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Treusteiner Weg | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★ Streit um Bettina
FFA: Franz Hefner, 1993 | 9- | 15m | |||||
| 3 | Anlasser | 7+ | 25m | |||||
| 4 | ★★ Daniel Ostkamin | 4 | 25m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Kumulus
FA: Kurt Albert †, Reiner Pickl & Albert Engelhardt, 1978 | 7 | 30m | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Treusteiner Weg
FA: Hans Merkel, 1935 | 6 | 28m, 3 | |||||
| 7 | ★★ Unnamed 1 | 7+ | 30m | |||||
| 8 |
★★ R2
FA: Paul Späth & H. Haas, 1929 | 4+ | 28m, 3 | |||||
| 9 | Viel Spaß und Gottes Segen | 6+ | 20m | |||||
| 10 | ★ Gelbe Verschneidung | 5+ | 20m | |||||
| 11 | ★★ Lukullus | 7 | 20m | |||||
| 12 | ★★ Winkelverschneidung | 5 | 25m | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Dunggle Wolggn
FFA: B. Hetzel, 2010 | 6+ | 25m | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Lockerungsübung
FFA: Horst Fürsattel, 1982 | 6+ | 30m | |||||
Knirbelweg | ||||||||
| 16 |
★ R1 / Löchlesweg
FA: Paul Späth & H. Haas | 5 | 30m | |||||
| 17 |
★ Knirbelweg
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1977 | 7- | 30m | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Knorpel
FFA: Jürgen Kollert, 1998 | 7- | 30m | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Gerade R1
FA: Jakl Kilian | 5+ | 30m, 3 | |||||
| 20 |
Wetterkante
FA: Oskar Bühler, 1963 | 6 | 30m | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Gerade R1 Variante / R15
FA: Dieter Cukrowski & K. Ritzmann, 1955 | 6+ | 30m | |||||
| 22 | Der starke Uhu | 6+ | 30m | |||||
| 23 |
★ Eibenkante
FA: Dieter Cukrowski & K. Ritzmann, 1955 | 6 | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 24 |
★ Erkerweg
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1977 | 6+ | 16m, 1 | |||||
| 25 |
Erker light
FA: 2014 | 6+ | 15m | |||||
| 26 | Gamsband | 5 | 35m | |||||
| 27 |
Niedrige Wand
FFA: Paul Kubis & Konni Nebel, 1979 | 5+ | 8m | |||||
1.3.5. Hermine Müller 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.747406, 11.249086
approche
The rightmost sector.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Auf eigene Verantwortung
FFA: Raimund Schuh, 2009 | 7- | 20m | |||
| 2 |
★ Hermine Müller Gedenkweg
FFA: Toni Langer, 1980 | 7+ | 20m | |||
| 3 |
★★ Einer flog übers Kuckucksnest
FA: Klemens Nicklaus | 8 | 25m | |||
| 4 |
★★★ Jörg Lehne Gedenkweg / Direkte R5
FA: Immo Engelhardt & H. Kiene, 1968 FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1982 | 8- | 25m | |||
| 5 |
★★★ R5
FA: Paul Späth & J. Frei | 6+ | 25m | |||
| 6 |
★ U-Weg
FA: Dieter Cukrowski & K. Ritzmann, 1955 | 6+ | 25m | |||
| 7 |
★ 5.10 Zäh
FFA: Immo Engelhardt, 1987 | 7 | 25m | |||
| 8 |
★ Rendezvous mit dem Leben
FFA: Stefan Löw, 2008 | 8- | 25m | |||
1.4. Angerstein 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.738607, 11.263539
approche
In Wichsenstein, park at the big hiker's parking lot in the south-east part of the town. Then walk north and uphill (past the church) to the cemetery. The crag is on your left after following the marked hiking path downhill again for 100 meters.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Roby | 8 | 10m | |||||
| 2 |
Marian
FFA: Uwe Schönfisch, 1993 | 9+ | 10m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Freundschaftsweg
FA: Kurt Munkert & Rudi Borschert, 1960 | 7+ | 12m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Stolperstein
FFA: Uwe Schönfisch, 2011 | 9- | 14m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Mehr Sein als Scheinen
FFA: Michael Schlotter, 1986 | 9- | 14m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Nordkamin / Gänsekamin
FA: DAV Nürnberg, 1952 | 6- | 16m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Karl Brendel Gedenkweg
FA: DAV Nürnberg, 1952 | 6- | 18m | |||||
| 8 |
Psychotherapie
FFA: Markus Bock, 2009 | 11- | 16m | |||||
| 9 |
Janus
Équip.: Philipp Warda FFA: Alex Megos, 17 Juin 2014 | 11 | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 10 | project2 | |||||||
| 11 |
★★ Hans Stümpfler Gedenkweg
FA: Kurt Munkert & Jürgen Burgis, 1959 FFA: Paul Kubis & Kurt Albert †, 1980 | 7 | 16m, 2 | |||||
1.5. Lochturm 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade artificielle
Lat / Long: 49.738557, 11.267489
résumé
Nice little tower in the forest behind the Wichsenstein vista.
description
The tower derives its name from two tunnels that pass through the rock, one at the base and one at half height. One of the routes ("Linke Nordseite") even passes through the upper tunnel.
Gets some sun when there are no leaves on the trees.
approche
In Wichsenstein, park at the hiker's parking lot at the edge of the village (towards Bieberbach). Walk to the junction at the church, then turn left and immediately right again, up the hill. After the graveyard, a path soon leads to the right into the woods. Follow that until it splits up into two faint paths, and follow the right one. After a few meters, you will see a wall-like pile of stone. Walk past this and the tower will be slightly on your left after a few meters.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Hummelstaner Weg
FA: Hans Frost, 1969 | 4+ | 14m | |||
| 2 | Ostriss | 5 | 14m | |||
| 3 |
Nürnberger Weg
FA: Hans Frost | 7+ | 14m, 2 | |||
| 4 |
★ Linke Nordseite / Gipfelstürmerweg
FA: K. Reiß & H. Behr | 3 | 14m | |||
| 5 |
★ Nordriss
FA: Hans Frost, 1969 | 6 | 14m | |||
| 6 | Rechte Nordseite | 5 | 14m | |||
| 7 |
Bamberger Weg
FA: Werner Thon, Karl Thon, Ulli Hanel & Sepp Ziegler, 1980 | 4 | 14m | |||
| 8 |
★ Bergseite
FA: Klaus Werner & Manfred Obermeier, 1969 | 5- | 14m, 2 | |||
| 9 |
★★ Fuchsensteinerweg / Alter Weg Direktausstieg
FA: Rudl Buchner & N. Bauer, 1981 | 5- | 12m, 3 | |||
| 10 |
Neunerweg
FA: Hans Frost, 1969 | 7- | 14m | |||
1.6. Spitzenstein 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.731840, 11.268426
approche
parking in Wichsenstein
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Perpetuum Mobile
FFA: Thomas Fickert, 1990 | 10- | 12m, 7 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Lilliweg / Lillipfeiler
FFA: Kurt Albert † | 8- | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 3 | Westwand | 5 | 12m | |||||
| 4 | Westwand Variante | 7 | 12m | |||||
| 5 |
Irren ist Menschlich
FFA: J. Kollert, 2002 | 7+ | 12m, 3 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Gründelweg
FA: Josef Gründel, Peter Fritz, Gustl Wildner, L. Wittmann & J. Wittmann, 1908 | 4- | 18m, 2 | |||||
| 7 | Hickersvariante | 6 | 12m | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 |
★ Trettachspitzlerkante
FA: Herbert Hagen & Gerhard Mayer, 1949 | 5+ | 12m, 3 | |||||
| 9 |
Paul Späth Gedenkweg
In remembrance of Paul Späth, vice chairman of the "Gipfelstürmer" section of the DAV, lost while ski touring in the alps near Berchtesgaden in 1949. | 5 A0 | 12m | |||||
| 10 |
Muart s' Raseac
Schöne Linie, nicht von minderer Felsqualität im unteren Drittel abschrecken lassen. 2ter Bühler in hohlem Fels durch zwei Laschen entschärft. FA: Paul Renzelshofer, 2003 | 8 | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 11 | ★ Pilzfängers Kollaps | 9- | 12m | |||||
| 12 |
★ Nordkante / Gipfelstürmerweg
Fotogene schöne Kletterei, kurz schwer am Übergang aus dem oberen Riss heraus. FA: Paul Späth & Hermann Zipfel, 1927 | 6 | 15m, 5 | |||||
1.7. Hängender Block 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade artificielle
Lat / Long: 49.731461, 11.252806
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Westverschneidung | 5- | 15m | |||
| 2 | Willi Schwarzmeyer Gedenkweg | 5 A1 | 15m | |||
| 3 |
★★ Willy Merkl Gedenkweg
FA: | 5 A2 | 25m, 2 | |||
| 4 |
Highlight
FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1990 | 10 | 15m | |||
| 5 | project | 15m | ||||
| 6 |
Syphon
FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1990 | 10 | 15m | |||
| 7 |
Trettachspitzlerweg
FA: Rudi Borschert, 1960 | 5 A3 | 15m | |||
1.8. Kleiner Spitzenstein 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.730268, 11.264378
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Eidechse | 5 | 15m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Salamander | 6+ | 15m | |||
| 3 | ★ Ringelnatter | 6- | 15m | |||
| 4 | ★★ Blindschleiche | 4 | 12m | |||
| 5 | Laubfrosch / Alter Weg | 3+ | 15m | |||
| 6 | ★★ Viper | 7+ | 15m | |||
| 7 | ★ Kreuzotter | 8- | 15m | |||
| 8 | unnamed | 15m | ||||
1.9. Buckenreuther Pfeiler 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.759414, 11.221257
description
10-18m height
Limitations de l'accès
Zone 2
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Denunziant | 5 | 10m, 3 | |||
| 2 | Karma Police | 9 | 5 | |||
| 3 | ★★ Gespaltene Gesellschaft | 6+ | 5 | |||
| 4 | Bad Karma Boy | 8+ | 5 | |||
| 5 | ★★ Karma strikes back | 8- | 6 | |||
| 6 | ★★ Herdenimmun | 7- | 7 | |||
1.10. Krausenberg 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.767922, 11.234295
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Weg der Erkenntnis
Über griffigen Riss in Abschlussplatte | 7- | ||||
| 2 |
★★ Das Vermächtnis der Tethys
Technisch interessant an der Kante | 7- | ||||
| 3 |
★★ Die Welt hinterm Kühlschrank
Schöne Rissverschneidung. Gut gesichert. | 6- | ||||
| 4 |
★ Honig am Arsch
Durch den Überhang. | 7- | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Nebenjob
Rechts außen großgriffig nach oben. | 5+ | ||||
| 6 |
★ Anonyme Kulinariker
Kurze Route auf die Steckrübe. Nur im Einstieg schwer. | 7+ | ||||
