Aide

Zwergenschloss Guide

  • Contexte de la cotation : UIAA
  • Photos : 1
  • Ascensions : 400

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Adam Orcholski Campbell Gome Robert Guggenberger Thomas Hocke Adam Ondra Mori

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Zwergenschloss

Summary:
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Saison

48 routes in Crag

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.822141, 11.309643

Limitations de l'accès

Parts of this crag are usually closed from October 1 until March 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!

Teile dieses Felsens sind üblicherweise von 1. Oktober bis 31. März gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!

approche

GPS: 11.30940, 49.82226

éthique

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.
hérité de Frankenjura Nord

1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden

Summary:
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Saison

10 routes in Crag

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.822209, 11.309147

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Linker Boulderquergang 6B Bloc 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Flucht nach oben

FA: W. Pfeffer, 1991

6 Sportive 15m, 4
3 Schrollverschneidung

Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991

5+ Sportive 15m, 4
4 Reise nach Mittelerden

FFA: Andreas Schelter, 1991

8 Sportive 17m, 4
5 Uschi, mach kein' Quatsch / Uschi mach keinen Quatsch

FFA: Dirk Lüder, 1991

7 Sportive 17m, 5
6 Fox on the Run

FFA: Andreas Schelter, 1991

8+ Sportive 17m, 4
7 Purple Rain 9- Sportive
8 Don Oelze

FA: A. Podeiko, 2003

10-/10 Sportive 17m, 5
9 A Chorus Line

Équip.: T. Fickert, 1991

10- Sportive 17m, 6
10 Linie 1

Équip.: M. Sykora, 1996

10/10+ Sportive 17m, 6

1.2. Bat Cave

Summary:
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Saison

8 routes in Sector

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.822311, 11.309585

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bat Cave

Zone 1

9/9+ Sportive
2 Wayne Manor

Zone 1

9+ Sportive
3 Two-Face

Zone 1

9- Sportive 10m
4 Dunkelzwerg

Zone 1

7+ Sportive 8m
5 The dark Knight rises

Zone 1

9- Sportive 20m
6 Galakto Boureko 8+/9- Sportive
7 Twilight 9/9+ Sportive
8 Panic Room 9+/10- Sportive

1.3. Powerplay

Summary:
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Saison

21 routes in Crag

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.822165, 11.309696

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Karsten Oelze Gedenkstart 9/9+ Sportive
2 Starlight Express 9 Sportive 17m
3 Star Trek Express 9/9+ Sportive 20m
4 Star Trek 9+ Sportive 17m
5 Born to be alive 9 Sportive
6 Ronin

FFA: Markus Bock, 2004

10+/11- Sportive
7 Unnamed 1 SportiveProjet
8 Plan B 10 Sportive
9 The Angry Inch 10+ Sportive
10 Zentrifuge 10/10+ Sportive 17m
11 Ich will im Beifall untergehen 10+ Sportive
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Delicate News 10- Sportive 17m
13 Forbidden Line 9/9+ Sportive 20m
14 Long Road to Ruin

FFA: Markus Bock, 2008

11-/11 Sportive 12m
15 Powerplay

FFA: Werner Thon, 1996

11- Sportive 17m
16 Lizard Lounge 10-/10 Sportive
17 Ich hab's wollen wissen 9- Sportive 17m
18 Ich will's nicht wissen 8+/9- Sportive 15m
19 Berti Vogts Gedenkweg 8+ Sportive 17m
20 Im 27. Jahr Des Zwerges 7+/8- Sportive 17m
21 Schloss Bellevue 6 Sportive

1.4. Zwergnasen

Summary:
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Saison

9 routes in Crag

Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.821963, 11.310021

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zwerchla

Équip.: T. Hocke, 2011

7 Sportive 8m, 3
2 Bruder Baum

shares the chain with Zwerchla

7- Sportive 8m, 3
3 Pasta 6+ Sportive 8m, 2
4 (?) 6B+ Bloc
5 Rotkäppchen…

Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991

7- Sportive 10m, 4
6 …und die sieben Zwergnasen / und die 7 Zwergnasen

Originally cloths climb started on “Rotkäppchen…“ but you can actually start from directly underneath the first bolt as a separate line.

Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991

7 Sportive 10m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Magnesiapower

Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991

6 Sportive 10m, 3
8 Chalk With Me

Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991

5+ Sportive 10m, 3
9 Diggin in the Dirt 6C Bloc

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5+ Schrollverschneidung Sportive 15m, 4 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
Chalk With Me Sportive 10m, 3 1.4. Zwergnasen
6 Flucht nach oben Sportive 15m, 4 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
Schloss Bellevue Sportive 1.3. Powerplay
Magnesiapower Sportive 10m, 3 1.4. Zwergnasen
6+ Pasta Sportive 8m, 2 1.4. Zwergnasen
7- Bruder Baum Sportive 8m, 3 1.4. Zwergnasen
Rotkäppchen… Sportive 10m, 4 1.4. Zwergnasen
7 Uschi, mach kein' Quatsch Sportive 17m, 5 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
Zwerchla Sportive 8m, 3 1.4. Zwergnasen
…und die sieben Zwergnasen Sportive 10m, 3 1.4. Zwergnasen
7+ Dunkelzwerg Sportive 8m 1.2. Bat Cave
7+/8- Im 27. Jahr Des Zwerges Sportive 17m 1.3. Powerplay
8 Reise nach Mittelerden Sportive 17m, 4 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
6B Linker Boulderquergang Bloc 12m 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
6B+ (?) Bloc 1.4. Zwergnasen
8+ Fox on the Run Sportive 17m, 4 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
Berti Vogts Gedenkweg Sportive 17m 1.3. Powerplay
6C Diggin in the Dirt Bloc 1.4. Zwergnasen
8+/9- Galakto Boureko Sportive 1.2. Bat Cave
Ich will's nicht wissen Sportive 15m 1.3. Powerplay
9- Purple Rain Sportive 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
The dark Knight rises Sportive 20m 1.2. Bat Cave
Two-Face Sportive 10m 1.2. Bat Cave
Ich hab's wollen wissen Sportive 17m 1.3. Powerplay
9 Born to be alive Sportive 1.3. Powerplay
Starlight Express Sportive 17m 1.3. Powerplay
9/9+ Bat Cave Sportive 1.2. Bat Cave
Twilight Sportive 1.2. Bat Cave
Forbidden Line Sportive 20m 1.3. Powerplay
Karsten Oelze Gedenkstart Sportive 1.3. Powerplay
Star Trek Express Sportive 20m 1.3. Powerplay
9+ Wayne Manor Sportive 1.2. Bat Cave
Star Trek Sportive 17m 1.3. Powerplay
9+/10- Panic Room Sportive 1.2. Bat Cave
10- A Chorus Line Sportive 17m, 6 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
Delicate News Sportive 17m 1.3. Powerplay
10-/10 Don Oelze Sportive 17m, 5 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
Lizard Lounge Sportive 1.3. Powerplay
10 Plan B Sportive 1.3. Powerplay
10/10+ Linie 1 Sportive 17m, 6 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
Zentrifuge Sportive 17m 1.3. Powerplay
10+ Ich will im Beifall untergehen Sportive 1.3. Powerplay
The Angry Inch Sportive 1.3. Powerplay
10+/11- Ronin Sportive 1.3. Powerplay
11- Powerplay Sportive 17m 1.3. Powerplay
11-/11 Long Road to Ruin Sportive 12m 1.3. Powerplay
? Unnamed 1 SportiveProjet 1.3. Powerplay
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