A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adam Orcholski
Christoph Rauch
Alberto Sanchez
Campbell Gome
Robert Guggenberger
Nicky
Thomas Hocke
Adam Ondra
Mori
Johannes Kuschke
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Zwergenschloss
48 in Crag
- 1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden 10 routes in Crag
- 1.2. Bat Cave 8 routes in Sector
- 1.3. Powerplay 21 routes in Crag
- 1.4. Zwergnasen 9 routes in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Zwergenschloss
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.822141, 11.309643
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
Limitations de l'accès
Parts of this crag are usually closed from October 1 until March 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!
Teile dieses Felsens sind üblicherweise von 1. Oktober bis 31. März gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!
approche
GPS: 11.30940, 49.82226
éthique
1.1. Reise nach Mittelerden
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.822209, 11.309147
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Linker Boulderquergang | 6B | 12m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Flucht nach oben
FA: W. Pfeffer, 1991 | 6 | 15m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★★ Schrollverschneidung
Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991 | 5+ | 15m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★★ Reise nach Mittelerden
FFA: Andreas Schelter, 1991 | 8 | 17m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Uschi, mach kein' Quatsch / Uschi mach keinen Quatsch
FFA: Dirk Lüder, 1991 | 7 | 17m, 5 | |||||
6 |
Fox on the Run
FFA: Andreas Schelter, 1991 | 8+ | 17m, 4 | |||||
7 | Purple Rain | 9- | ||||||
8 |
Don Oelze
FA: A. Podeiko, 2003 | 10-/10 | 17m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★★ A Chorus Line
Équip.: T. Fickert, 1991 | 10- | 17m, 6 | |||||
10 |
★★ Linie 1
Équip.: M. Sykora, 1996 | 10/10+ | 17m, 6 |
1.2. Bat Cave
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 49.822311, 11.309585
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bat Cave
Zone 1 | 9/9+ | ||||
2 |
Wayne Manor
Zone 1 | 9+ | ||||
3 |
★★ Two-Face
Zone 1 | 9- | 10m | |||
4 |
Dunkelzwerg
Zone 1 | 7+ | 8m | |||
5 |
★ The dark Knight rises
Zone 1 | 9- | 20m | |||
6 | ★★ Galakto Boureko | 8+/9- | ||||
7 | ★★ Twilight | 9/9+ | ||||
8 | ★★ Panic Room | 9+/10- |
1.3. Powerplay
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.822165, 11.309696
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Karsten Oelze Gedenkstart | 9/9+ | ||||||
2 | ★★ Starlight Express | 9 | 17m | |||||
3 | Star Trek Express | 9/9+ | 20m | |||||
4 | Star Trek | 9+ | 17m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Born to be alive | 9 | ||||||
6 |
★ Ronin
FFA: Markus Bock, 2004 | 10+/11- | ||||||
7 | Unnamed 1 | |||||||
8 | ★★ Plan B | 10 | ||||||
9 | The Angry Inch | 10+ | ||||||
10 | ★★ Zentrifuge | 10/10+ | 17m | |||||
11 | Ich will im Beifall untergehen | 10+ | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 | ★ Delicate News | 10- | 17m | |||||
13 | ★★ Forbidden Line | 9/9+ | 20m | |||||
14 |
Long Road to Ruin
FFA: Markus Bock, 2008 | 11-/11 | 12m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Powerplay
FFA: Werner Thon, 1996 | 11- | 17m | |||||
16 | Lizard Lounge | 10-/10 | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ich hab's wollen wissen | 9- | 17m | |||||
18 | Ich will's nicht wissen | 8+/9- | 15m | |||||
19 | ★★ Berti Vogts Gedenkweg | 8+ | 17m | |||||
20 | ★★ Im 27. Jahr Des Zwerges | 7+/8- | 17m | |||||
21 | ★★ Schloss Bellevue | 6 |
1.4. Zwergnasen
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 49.821963, 11.310021
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Zwerchla
Équip.: T. Hocke, 2011 | 7 | 8m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★ Bruder Baum
shares the chain with Zwerchla | 7- | 8m, 3 | |||||
3 | ★★ Pasta | 6+ | 8m, 2 | |||||
4 | (?) | 6B+ | ||||||
5 |
★★ Rotkäppchen…
Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991 | 7- | 10m, 4 | |||||
6 |
★★ …und die sieben Zwergnasen / und die 7 Zwergnasen
Originally cloths climb started on “Rotkäppchen…“ but you can actually start from directly underneath the first bolt as a separate line. Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991 | 7 | 10m, 3 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Magnesiapower
Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991 | 6 | 10m, 3 | |||||
8 |
★ Chalk With Me
Équip.: W. Pfeffer, 1991 | 5+ | 10m, 3 | |||||
9 | Diggin in the Dirt | 6C |