Affichant les 84 ascensions total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lun 1 Avr 2024 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
1
2
3
| 110m | |||||
super fun and felt like a proper adventure, keen to try something similar to this again soon!
|
|||||||
Dim 3 Déc 2023 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
1
2
3
| 110m | |||||
That delicate move on the first pitch felt icky… but nothing compared to the choss of the last pitch.
|
|||||||
Dim 12 Nov. 2023 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
Miriam Barton
1
2
3
| 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Epic climb with a few harder cruxes
|
|||||||
Lun 29 Mai 2023 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | |||||
Sam 4 Fév 2023 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
1
2
3
| 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lun 21 Nov. 2022 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Middle Earth Crag | |||||||
10 | Frodo | ||||||
16 | Unclimbed Crack | ||||||
15 | Gollum | ||||||
12 | Modor | ||||||
12 | Shadowfax | ||||||
14 | Bilbo | Dans la moyenne | |||||
Sam 8 Jan 2022 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
1
14
30m
2
16
20m
3
8
60m
| 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Awesome climb with great views. Definitely be back to try the other routes and linkups.
|
|||||||
Lun 20 Déc 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete - avec sophie | 110m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Mar 12 Oct. 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
One of the best climbs in the valley for sure. Solid protection on the crux makes it super secure. A lovely big ledge for a picnic in the middle
|
|||||||
Mar 12 Oct. 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
16 | ★ Up An At 'Em | 16m | ★ Bon | ||||
Good climb, needed a bit of cleaning when I was there and definitely worth waiting for the rock to dry out if it has rained recently
|
|||||||
15 | ★★ Ta-Lo | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Beautiful climb, nice continuation on from 'death wall' for an easy multipitch experience.
|
|||||||
Sam 12 Juin 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
12 | One For Di | 10m | |||||
Ven 19 Mars 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
16 | ★★ Arnold Lane | 15m | |||||
Lun 15 Mars 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Middle Earth Crag | |||||||
11 | Gandalf | ||||||
12 | Shadowfax | ||||||
Mar 17 Mars 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete - avec gianni evans, Andy Baird | 120m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Nice long route. Great views and great weather.
|
|||||||
Sam 14 Mars 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes | |||||||
15 | ★★ Plum Duff - avec Andy Baird | 30m | |||||
Sam 14 Mars 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
Andy Baird, Myles Perry
2
grimpé en tête par
Myles Perry
3
grimpé en tête par
Gianna Evans
| 120m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
Gianna Evans, Myles Perry
| 90m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
First pitch was tougher than it looked, some good moves and fun problems. Second pitch definitely had the crux and we each solved it differently. Third pitch was boulder field at altitude. I've logged the 4th pitch (Plum Duff) separately.
|
|||||||
Sam 14 Mars 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes | |||||||
15 | ★★ Plum Duff - avec Gianna Evans, Myles Perry | 30m | ★ Bon | ||||
Definitely wandered off route a bit, potentially should have started more right (wouldn't have to go through leg press roof) and should have been more on the right wall than in the chimney. A creative hex placement and some loose rocks added to the spice.
|
|||||||
Dim 2 Fév 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete - avec C and H | 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Awesome route in an amazing setting. Lead P2. Crux is pretty tough for 16 but the gear is bomber and the jugs are all there.
|
|||||||
Sam 1 Fév 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Armchair Theatre | |||||||
12 | ★ Fly Direct | ★ Bon | |||||
14 | ★ Hangman | ★ Bon | |||||
Sam 1 Fév 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Hotu Cliffs West Wing | |||||||
14 | ★★ Cioch | 70m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Jeu 30 Jan 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete Linkup The Bomb
- avec
Jason
1
14
120m
2
16
3
10
linkup The Bomb
4
16
| 120m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Heaps of loose rock had tone pulled off the wall. A lot of time was spent “landscaping” cracks, handholds and gear placements had to be dug out. Sooooo worth it tho🤘👍🤩
|
|||||||
Lun 27 Jan 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
17 | ★ Jemmett's Jam Creek | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Pretty bushy approach, Rappelled off a sling on 'Vee Groove'
|
|||||||
Ven 22 Nov. 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Middle Earth Crag | |||||||
14 | Bilbo | ||||||
Deff need crack climbing skills
|
|||||||
11 | Gandalf | ||||||
60cm slings super useful
|
|||||||
12 | Modor | ||||||
10 | Hobbit Hill Slab | ||||||
First Trad woohoo
|
|||||||
Dim 3 Nov. 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
Charlie
| 120m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Another quality outing on Bomb Arete, this time comfortable with trad, quite some progression since my first outing on this classic. I lead the first two pitches and Charlie lead the 3rd up Plum Duff.
|
|||||||
Sam 2 Nov. 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
21 | ★★★ The Tempest | 50m | |||||
Sketchy start over flakey ground with limited pro. Some of the cracks are dirty and require removal of soil to get gear in. Didn't particularly fancy the look of the first arete and had a look at the main higher arete, the first bolt looked rusty so be very cautious of these old bolts.. ended up climbing Cirrus Minor which is very dirty, particularly the crux slab which I mostly avoided going off route to the left.. The climbing upto/past the bolts looks quite tricky but good climbing, wouldn't trust those old bolts though.
|
|||||||
17 | ★ Cirrus Minor - avec Charlie | 50m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Not recommended in the current state and the start is basically a solo for a way. Needs a serious clean unfortuantely, crux slab was so dirty I went off route to avoid it.. couldn't find any pro for the first 12 or so metres of the climb either so that was sketchy climbing over dirty flakes. Several of the placements required excavating due to soil build up.. A shame the route does not get more traffic as I'd give it a star if it wasn't soo dirty. The crux slab looks tricky, a shame it was way too licheny for me to feel comfortable attempting.
|
|||||||
15 | ★★ Ta-Lo - avec Charlie | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Love this climb, always a good experience. Left a new sling at the top and binned the old slings..
|
|||||||
13 | ★ Death Wall - avec Charlie | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
Dim 24 Mars 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
13 | ★ Death Wall | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
15 | ★★ Ta-Lo | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Tried the crack system line just to the right of Ta-Lo (does this have a name?). Got about halfway up and wasn't too keen on the tricky looking climbing above with the wider crack so finished on the nice cracks of Ta-Lo!
|
|||||||
Sam 23 Mars 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
14 | ★ Between The Lines | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice climb, good jams. What is it with climbs in this area being a grade or two lower than what they feel?
|
|||||||
15 | ★★ Ta-Lo | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Really enjoyed this climb! Got some nice jams in, lovely parallel cracks that gobble your cams up. Was quite happy to have doubles of .75 and 1 (the only doubles I have atm). I'm feeling more comfortable with my foot jams, need to work on hand jams to get more comfortable/ solid with them. Couldn't spot many nut placements myself. There's a great spike at the top to belay off/ rap. Abseiled from the spike to near the base of Death Wall with a 70m rope, easily down climbed blocks from there.
|
|||||||
17 | ★ Jemmett's Jam Creek | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Wish I was more confident in my jams as that crack at half height looks nice! Not sure if there used to be a track to these climbs (?) but the approach is quite bushy.
|
|||||||
Mar 8 Jan 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
13 | ★ Death Wall | 12m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Great climb
|
|||||||
15 | ★★ Ta-Lo | 20m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Mar 9 Oct. 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
17 | Baby Elephant | 40m | |||||
14 | ★ Between The Lines | 20m | |||||
13 | ★ Death Wall | 12m | |||||
15 | ★★ Ta-Lo | 20m | |||||
Ven 21 Sept 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | |||||
Jeu 24 Mai 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | |||||
Jeu 24 Mai 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Middle Earth Crag | |||||||
14 | Bilbo | ||||||
10 | Frodo | ||||||
Jeu 25 Jan 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete - avec Tuan | 110m | |||||
Great climb. Finding the descent gully after dark in thick fog with one head torch was fun.
|
|||||||
Dim 19 Mars 2017 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
14 | ★ Between The Lines - avec shichang | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice, good jamming. Cams to #4, doubles 1-3 useful but hexes will work. Was going to lead Complan but decided to save energy for drive home, went to see how Angela Stephen and Lenka were doing on bomb arete.
|
|||||||
15 | ★★ Ta-Lo - avec shichang | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Really fun with a short section of compulsory hands and feet jamming. Doubles of .75 and 1 camalot would have been useful but big nut and hex placements can be found. Belayed from rope around the spike, abseiling from that is fine, didn't use the old slings or add another. A 70m won't get to the ground but a downclimb the last few meters is ok.
|
|||||||
13 | ★ Death Wall - avec shichang | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice crack climbing.
|
|||||||
Sam 4 Fév 2017 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Hotu Cliffs West Wing | |||||||
14 | ★★ Cioch | 70m | ★ Bon | ||||
Jason lead 1st pitch, I lead 2nd.
|
|||||||
Sam 4 Fév 2017 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
1
grimpé en tête par
Jason
2
grimpé en tête par
Maud
3
grimpé en tête par
Me
| 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Beautiful day/ climb, first multipitch trad route.
|
|||||||
Jeu 19 Jan 2017 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete (Bomb Arete Linkup Plum Duff)
- avec
Sam Munday
1
16
120m
2
3
linkup Plum Duff
4
16
| 120m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Lun 21 Mars 2016 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
Jonny, Janina
1
14
grimpé en tête par
Ian
2
16
grimpé en tête par
Jonny
3
10
grimpé en tête par
Janina
| 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Champagne 1st pitch - awesome. Committing but juggy 2nd and a super fun scrambly 3rd. Great full moon outing made 2nding a joy headtorch-free.
|
|||||||
Dim 13 Mars 2016 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Upper Tier | |||||||
18 |
Symphony
- avec
Jonny
1
16
grimpé en tête par
Jonny
2
13
grimpé en tête par
Ian
3
18
grimpé en tête par
Jonny
4
13
grimpé en tête par
Ian
| 100m | Pas la peine | ||||
If you're looking to rock climb don't bother...it's more a mountaineering route but with plenty of slick grassy near- vertical belays, overhung tussock pulling, a filthy-tons of dirt in your eyes- bottomless chimney crux and take a nut key each as there will be plenty of diggin to get some gear in. Lol. If it's an adventure you're after - go for it!!
|
|||||||
Sam 20 Fév 2016 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner
1
2
3
| 110m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Dim 29 Nov. 2015 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes | |||||||
15 | ★★ Plum Duff - avec Morne Claasson | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Cool finish to a brilliant climb. A true gem
|
|||||||
Dim 29 Nov. 2015 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
Morne Claassen
1
14
2
16
3
10
linkup Plum duff
4
15
| 110m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
What a great multi pitch line. We set up an extra anchor right under the chimney to safe ropedrag.
|
|||||||
Dim 26 Oct. 2014 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
Grant Johnston
| 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Just a few degrees above zero, vicious wind chill, misty and threatening to rain. Four top layers, two bottom layers, brrr. So of course we went up. Fortunately the wind dropped a bit after the first pitch. Crux on pitch 2 is fairly committed for the grade, old school 16. Maybe try the extra alternate chimney pitch finish if you have time, but allow for a fair bit of walk-off route-finding time. Walk off is steep and my knee has not liked it. A fun adventure in a great setting.
|
|||||||
16 |
★★★ Bomb Arete
- avec
John Pitcairn
1
14
grimpé en tête par
Grant Johnston
2
16
grimpé en tête par
John Pitcairn
3
8
grimpé en tête par
Grant Johnston
| 110m | ★ Bon | ||||
I've never climbed in so much clothing or been so cold on a climb before. Vicious wind chill factor. P1 gave me more trouble than I was expecting esp at the delicate move left until my belayer pointed out a foot hold I had missed which I had to very carefully reverse my last move to. Hands were numb with cold. P2 is a better climb. P3 is 60m so if protecting you need to watch rope drag. Walk off is long and steep but OK. Great views at the top. Altogether a bit of an adventure.
|
|||||||
Mar 1 Jan 2013 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Dim 25 Mars 2007 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes | |||||||
15 | ★★ Plum Duff | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
great option for a nice bomb arete finish pitch, watch the loose rock you will drop on your belayer
|
|||||||
Dim 25 Mars 2007 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
18 | Life, The Universe, And Everything | 110m | Pas la peine | ||||
No gear, freaky traverse, loose flake belay
|
|||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
do the chimney 15 as a 4th pitch
|
|||||||
Sam 24 Mars 2007 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
16 | ★★ Complan | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
17 | ★ Jemmett's Jam Creek | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
I need to learn to crack climb
|
|||||||
15 | ★★ Ta-Lo | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
you should have seen my body shaking elvis leg
|
|||||||
18 | ★★ Parc Lane | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
awesome first half, interesting second part
|
|||||||
16 | ★★ Arnold Lane | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 14 Mars 2004 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
13 | ★ Death Wall | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
Lun 1 Sept 2003 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||||
13 | ★ Death Wall | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
Weather was crap - rock was wet but we did it anyway!
|
|||||||
2002 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mar 13 Avr 2010 - Mangatepopo Valley | |||||||
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Bomb Arete | 110m |
Affichant les 84 ascensions total.