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Ascensions dans Mangatepopo Valley

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Affichant les 84 ascensions total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité Grimpeur
Lun 1 Avr 2024 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m Classique
Mike Pennefather
Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete
1 En second
2 Trad
3 Trad
Trad 110m
baz
super fun and felt like a proper adventure, keen to try something similar to this again soon!

 
Dim 3 Déc 2023 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete
1 Trad
2 Trad
3 Trad
Trad 110m
Wes Kitlasten
That delicate move on the first pitch felt icky… but nothing compared to the choss of the last pitch.

 
Dim 12 Nov. 2023 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec Miriam Barton
1 Trad
2 Trad
3 En second
Trad 110m Classique
Janek Manderson
Epic climb with a few harder cruxes

 
Lun 29 Mai 2023 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m
Jezza
Sam 4 Fév 2023 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete
1 En second
2 En second
3 En second
Trad 110m Classique
Matt
Lun 21 Nov. 2022 - Mangatepopo Valley
Middle Earth Crag
10 Frodo Trad
Christian Chesswas
16 Unclimbed Crack Trad
Christian Chesswas
15 Gollum Trad
Christian Chesswas
12 Modor Trad
Christian Chesswas
12 Shadowfax Trad
Christian Chesswas
14 Bilbo Trad Dans la moyenne
Christian Chesswas
Sam 8 Jan 2022 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete
1 14 30m
2 16 20m
3 8 60m
Trad 110m Classique
Lat
Awesome climb with great views. Definitely be back to try the other routes and linkups.

 
Lun 20 Déc 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec sophie Trad 110m Excellent
Tom B
Mar 12 Oct. 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m Super classique
Nazomi
One of the best climbs in the valley for sure. Solid protection on the crux makes it super secure. A lovely big ledge for a picnic in the middle

 
Mar 12 Oct. 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
16 Up An At 'Em Trad 16m Bon
Nazomi
Good climb, needed a bit of cleaning when I was there and definitely worth waiting for the rock to dry out if it has rained recently

 
15 Ta-Lo Trad 20m Excellent
Nazomi
Beautiful climb, nice continuation on from 'death wall' for an easy multipitch experience.

 
Sam 12 Juin 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
12 One For Di Trad 10m
Affrikah Smart
Ven 19 Mars 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
16 Arnold Lane Trad 15m
Affrikah Smart
Lun 15 Mars 2021 - Mangatepopo Valley
Middle Earth Crag
11 Gandalf Trad
Affrikah Smart
12 Shadowfax Trad
Affrikah Smart
Mar 17 Mars 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec gianni evans, Andy Baird
1 14 120m grimpé en tête par Myles Perry
2 16 grimpé en tête par Myles Perry
3
Trad 120m Classique
Myles Perry
Nice long route. Great views and great weather.

 
Sam 14 Mars 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes
15 Plum Duff - avec Andy Baird Trad 30m
Gianna Evans
Sam 14 Mars 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec Andy Baird, Myles Perry
1 16 120m grimpé en tête par Myles Perry
2 grimpé en tête par Myles Perry
3 grimpé en tête par Gianna Evans
Trad 120m
Gianna Evans
16 Bomb Arete - avec Gianna Evans, Myles Perry
1 14 30m grimpé en tête par Myles Perry
2 16 30m grimpé en tête par Myles Perry
3 10 30m grimpé en tête par Gianna Evans
Trad 90m Classique
Andy Baird
First pitch was tougher than it looked, some good moves and fun problems. Second pitch definitely had the crux and we each solved it differently. Third pitch was boulder field at altitude. I've logged the 4th pitch (Plum Duff) separately.

 
Sam 14 Mars 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes
15 Plum Duff - avec Gianna Evans, Myles Perry Trad 30m Bon
Andy Baird
Definitely wandered off route a bit, potentially should have started more right (wouldn't have to go through leg press roof) and should have been more on the right wall than in the chimney. A creative hex placement and some loose rocks added to the spice.

 
Dim 2 Fév 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec C and H Trad 110m Classique
Paul Renwick
Awesome route in an amazing setting. Lead P2. Crux is pretty tough for 16 but the gear is bomber and the jugs are all there.

 
Sam 1 Fév 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Armchair Theatre
12 Fly Direct Trad Bon
Shanyn Curry
14 Hangman Trad Bon
Shanyn Curry
Sam 1 Fév 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Hotu Cliffs West Wing
14 Cioch Trad 70m Classique
Shanyn Curry
Jeu 30 Jan 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Linkup The Bomb - avec Jason
1 14 120m
2 16
3 10 linkup The Bomb
4 16
Trad 120m Super classique
Max Warren
Heaps of loose rock had tone pulled off the wall. A lot of time was spent “landscaping” cracks, handholds and gear placements had to be dug out. Sooooo worth it tho🤘👍🤩

 
Lun 27 Jan 2020 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
17 Jemmett's Jam Creek Trad 40m Bon
Y Swery
Pretty bushy approach, Rappelled off a sling on 'Vee Groove'

 
Ven 22 Nov. 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley
Middle Earth Crag
14 Bilbo Trad
Steven Cox
Deff need crack climbing skills

 
11 Gandalf Trad
Steven Cox
60cm slings super useful

 
12 Modor Trad
Steven Cox
10 Hobbit Hill Slab Trad
Steven Cox
First Trad woohoo

 
Dim 3 Nov. 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec Charlie
1 14 120m grimpé en tête par Sam Lancaster
2 16 grimpé en tête par Sam Lancaster
3 15 grimpé en tête par Charlie
Trad 120m Classique
Sam Lancaster
Another quality outing on Bomb Arete, this time comfortable with trad, quite some progression since my first outing on this classic. I lead the first two pitches and Charlie lead the 3rd up Plum Duff.

 
Sam 2 Nov. 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
21 The Tempest Trad 50m
Sam Lancaster
Sketchy start over flakey ground with limited pro. Some of the cracks are dirty and require removal of soil to get gear in. Didn't particularly fancy the look of the first arete and had a look at the main higher arete, the first bolt looked rusty so be very cautious of these old bolts.. ended up climbing Cirrus Minor which is very dirty, particularly the crux slab which I mostly avoided going off route to the left.. The climbing upto/past the bolts looks quite tricky but good climbing, wouldn't trust those old bolts though.

 
17 Cirrus Minor - avec Charlie Trad 50m Dans la moyenne
Sam Lancaster
Not recommended in the current state and the start is basically a solo for a way. Needs a serious clean unfortuantely, crux slab was so dirty I went off route to avoid it.. couldn't find any pro for the first 12 or so metres of the climb either so that was sketchy climbing over dirty flakes. Several of the placements required excavating due to soil build up.. A shame the route does not get more traffic as I'd give it a star if it wasn't soo dirty. The crux slab looks tricky, a shame it was way too licheny for me to feel comfortable attempting.

 
15 Ta-Lo - avec Charlie Trad 20m Excellent
Sam Lancaster
Love this climb, always a good experience. Left a new sling at the top and binned the old slings..

 
13 Death Wall - avec Charlie Trad 12m Bon
Sam Lancaster
Dim 24 Mars 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
13 Death Wall Trad 12m Bon
Sam Lancaster
15 Ta-Lo Trad 20m Excellent
Sam Lancaster
Tried the crack system line just to the right of Ta-Lo (does this have a name?). Got about halfway up and wasn't too keen on the tricky looking climbing above with the wider crack so finished on the nice cracks of Ta-Lo!

 
Sam 23 Mars 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
14 Between The Lines Trad 20m Bon
Sam Lancaster
Nice climb, good jams. What is it with climbs in this area being a grade or two lower than what they feel?

 
15 Ta-Lo Trad 20m Excellent
Sam Lancaster
Really enjoyed this climb! Got some nice jams in, lovely parallel cracks that gobble your cams up. Was quite happy to have doubles of .75 and 1 (the only doubles I have atm). I'm feeling more comfortable with my foot jams, need to work on hand jams to get more comfortable/ solid with them. Couldn't spot many nut placements myself. There's a great spike at the top to belay off/ rap. Abseiled from the spike to near the base of Death Wall with a 70m rope, easily down climbed blocks from there.

 
17 Jemmett's Jam Creek Trad 40m Bon
Sam Lancaster
Wish I was more confident in my jams as that crack at half height looks nice! Not sure if there used to be a track to these climbs (?) but the approach is quite bushy.

 
Mar 8 Jan 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
13 Death Wall Trad 12m Classique
Lauren Simpson
Great climb

 
15 Ta-Lo Trad 20m Dans la moyenne
Lauren Simpson
Mar 9 Oct. 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
17 Baby Elephant Trad 40m
Matt
14 Between The Lines Trad 20m
Matt
13 Death Wall Trad 12m
Matt
15 Ta-Lo Trad 20m
Matt
Ven 21 Sept 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m
Matt
Jeu 24 Mai 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m
Lauren Simpson
Jeu 24 Mai 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley
Middle Earth Crag
14 Bilbo Trad
Lauren Simpson
10 Frodo Trad
Lauren Simpson
Jeu 25 Jan 2018 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec Tuan Trad 110m
Joey Scarr
Great climb. Finding the descent gully after dark in thick fog with one head torch was fun.

 
Dim 19 Mars 2017 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
14 Between The Lines - avec shichang Trad 20m Bon
John Pitcairn
Nice, good jamming. Cams to #4, doubles 1-3 useful but hexes will work. Was going to lead Complan but decided to save energy for drive home, went to see how Angela Stephen and Lenka were doing on bomb arete.

 
15 Ta-Lo - avec shichang Trad 20m Excellent
John Pitcairn
Really fun with a short section of compulsory hands and feet jamming. Doubles of .75 and 1 camalot would have been useful but big nut and hex placements can be found. Belayed from rope around the spike, abseiling from that is fine, didn't use the old slings or add another. A 70m won't get to the ground but a downclimb the last few meters is ok.

 
13 Death Wall - avec shichang Trad 12m Bon
John Pitcairn
Nice crack climbing.

 
Sam 4 Fév 2017 - Mangatepopo Valley
Hotu Cliffs West Wing
14 Cioch Trad 70m Bon
Sam Lancaster
Jason lead 1st pitch, I lead 2nd.

 
Sam 4 Fév 2017 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete
1 grimpé en tête par Jason
2 grimpé en tête par Maud
3 grimpé en tête par Me
Trad 110m Classique
Sam Lancaster
Beautiful day/ climb, first multipitch trad route.

 
Jeu 19 Jan 2017 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete (Bomb Arete Linkup Plum Duff) - avec Sam Munday
1 16 120m
2
3 linkup Plum Duff
4 16
Trad 120m Super classique
Max Warren
Lun 21 Mars 2016 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec Jonny, Janina
1 14 grimpé en tête par Ian
2 16 grimpé en tête par Jonny
3 10 grimpé en tête par Janina
Trad 110m Classique
Ian.Grabowski
Champagne 1st pitch - awesome. Committing but juggy 2nd and a super fun scrambly 3rd. Great full moon outing made 2nding a joy headtorch-free.

 
Dim 13 Mars 2016 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Upper Tier
18 Symphony - avec Jonny
1 16 grimpé en tête par Jonny
2 13 grimpé en tête par Ian
3 18 grimpé en tête par Jonny
4 13 grimpé en tête par Ian
Trad 100m Pas la peine
Ian.Grabowski
If you're looking to rock climb don't bother...it's more a mountaineering route but with plenty of slick grassy near- vertical belays, overhung tussock pulling, a filthy-tons of dirt in your eyes- bottomless chimney crux and take a nut key each as there will be plenty of diggin to get some gear in. Lol. If it's an adventure you're after - go for it!!

 
Sam 20 Fév 2016 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner
1
2
3
Trad 110m Super classique
Christian Richardson
Dim 29 Nov. 2015 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes
15 Plum Duff - avec Morne Claasson Trad 30m Classique
Max Warren
Cool finish to a brilliant climb. A true gem

 
Dim 29 Nov. 2015 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec Morne Claassen
1 14
2 16
3 10 linkup Plum duff
4 15
Trad 110m Super classique
Max Warren
What a great multi pitch line. We set up an extra anchor right under the chimney to safe ropedrag.

 
Dim 26 Oct. 2014 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete - avec Grant Johnston
1 14 grimpé en tête par Grant Johnston
2 16 grimpé en tête par John Pitcairn
3 10 grimpé en tête par Grant Johnston
Trad 110m Classique
John Pitcairn
Just a few degrees above zero, vicious wind chill, misty and threatening to rain. Four top layers, two bottom layers, brrr. So of course we went up. Fortunately the wind dropped a bit after the first pitch. Crux on pitch 2 is fairly committed for the grade, old school 16. Maybe try the extra alternate chimney pitch finish if you have time, but allow for a fair bit of walk-off route-finding time. Walk off is steep and my knee has not liked it. A fun adventure in a great setting.

 
16 Bomb Arete - avec John Pitcairn
1 14 grimpé en tête par Grant Johnston
2 16 grimpé en tête par John Pitcairn
3 8 grimpé en tête par Grant Johnston
Trad 110m Bon
Grant Johnston
I've never climbed in so much clothing or been so cold on a climb before. Vicious wind chill factor. P1 gave me more trouble than I was expecting esp at the delicate move left until my belayer pointed out a foot hold I had missed which I had to very carefully reverse my last move to. Hands were numb with cold. P2 is a better climb. P3 is 60m so if protecting you need to watch rope drag. Walk off is long and steep but OK. Great views at the top. Altogether a bit of an adventure.

 
Mar 1 Jan 2013 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m Super classique
Dean Garner
Dim 25 Mars 2007 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes
15 Plum Duff Trad 30m Excellent
Phil & Tom
great option for a nice bomb arete finish pitch, watch the loose rock you will drop on your belayer

 
Dim 25 Mars 2007 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
18 Life, The Universe, And Everything Trad 110m Pas la peine
Phil & Tom
No gear, freaky traverse, loose flake belay

 
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m Excellent
Phil & Tom
do the chimney 15 as a 4th pitch

 
Sam 24 Mars 2007 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
16 Complan Trad 15m Excellent
Phil & Tom
17 Jemmett's Jam Creek Trad 40m Excellent
Phil & Tom
I need to learn to crack climb

 
15 Ta-Lo Trad 20m Excellent
Phil & Tom
you should have seen my body shaking elvis leg

 
18 Parc Lane Trad 15m Excellent
Phil & Tom
awesome first half, interesting second part

 
16 Arnold Lane Trad 15m Excellent
Phil & Tom
Dim 14 Mars 2004 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
13 Death Wall Trad 12m Bon
Francine Chambers
Lun 1 Sept 2003 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
13 Death Wall Trad 12m Bon
Chris Hay
Weather was crap - rock was wet but we did it anyway!

 
2002 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m Classique
Peter Taylor
Mar 13 Avr 2010 - Mangatepopo Valley
Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m
@malcolmm
16 Bomb Arete Trad 110m
Xavier Wilson

Affichant les 84 ascensions total.

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