Ascensions dans Nordland par Philip C contenant trad-cpr ou ascent-date

30m of surprisingly good hand jams split by 2 distinct crux sections. Had no business being up there, just dabbled while the strong kid rested. All moves go; Linking was hilariously heavy. Fun to touch real climbing

Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them. Standard Lofoten rack works fine.

Sustained, varied climbing with just the right amount of runouts to keep things safe but spicy. The setting is out of this world. One of the very best I´ve climbed in Norway.

Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right

Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches

It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.

Super nice steep climbing with cool movement. Spent 4 rope solo sessions working it. Top 2/3 is fine but initial sequence of moves to establish in the flared jam is right at my limit. Taller friends can skip this sequence & just jam. Need be stronger to make plugging gear at the start feel more secure (the pro is good, the climber is weak).

Climbs nicer than it looks.

First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2

Nice climbing. The crux protects well with small wires (or black totem). A great option for busy days at Gandalf

With a pre-placed piece. Great route

Eventually figured out midget beta for the crux after multiple sessions. Not fast enough thou before winter hit. Favourite line at the cliff!

The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!

Sustained and balancy climbing. Bring extra small cams & micro wires.

Doesn´t get much better than this. Extra .3-.5 nice & #3 useful for pitches 2/3

Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines

The leaning groove pitch would be a crag classic anywhere in the world. Engaging stemming with all of Presten below your feet. Epic!!

An absolute classic and the best line on the South Face. Rack is doubles from 0.4 to #2 plus a 3 & 4 for the OW finish

Korstoget into Vestpillaren

My favourite finger crack in Lofoten. Sustained & full value for the grade. Couple of extra finger sized pieces nice.

Tried to ignore chronic medial epicondylitis from all the salmon murdering. Didn´t go well. Dragged up by my ropeguns (it´s probably a nice route)

Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((

There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag

Great climb with 4 varied pitches. The OW (P2) might just be the crux thou it protects well with a standard rack via a broken seem to the left for all but the last 4/5m (where a tipped #6 fits & is nice to have).

Nice steep route. Pulled on gear through P2. First bolted anchor is junk but it´s easy to build a stance directly under the 7+ pitch. Rest of the anchors are in good condition (A 70m gets you to the ground from P2)

Gradually steepening handcrack for 100m plus leads to 2 distinctive crux pitches. #4 & #5 handy.

Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management

A dihedral, roof, OW & some face climbing. Topo says 6+, description says 6 in the guidebook. Either way, crux is short & well protected & there´s lots of nice movement on this one.

Quality climbing, outrageous setting..much less walking than the other routes. What´s not to like?

Most people I´ve chatted with seem to enjoy this route. I thought it was total shit. I guess some sections of the lower pitches are nice?

#4 for the start & #5 finish works ok

Det siste Gandalf klatretur. Kommer til å savne ikke ha dette i bakgården

Really nice climbing all the way to the top

Nice varied climbing. The initial lower block sounds loose & vibrates. Use caution/climb at your own risk for this section.

Så fin! Linked 1/2. P3 is beautiful, sustained finger jamming in a corner before a burly mantle (or not, I was pumped out of my brain by then) followed by exciting slab to the top. Sandbagged at the grade by Lofoten standards. Recommended!

This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs