Beautiful and scenic beachside bouldering with relatively easy access.
The north most boulder problems of the Wangetti crags. Adventurous and difficult, but wicked fun. Holds a huge variety of styles and options. Entirely granitic.
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.
NORTHERN CARPARK: Pull into the dirt track located at -16.620186,145.542514 and if you have clearance follow down the track or park near the entrance and walk down. Will have to drive north, u-turn, and drive south again for this. A dirt walking track at the end of the dirt road (30m or so in from highway) will take you to Pretty Beach. Walk north or south here. Southward has the most boulders currently. Walk north for 'Northern Retreat' area. Walk south for 'The Zoo Pen' and 'Grey And Balding'.
SOUTHERN CARPARK: Park at -16.621321,145.544426 on the East side of the highway, walk 150m south behind the guard rail until you can see down the scree drainage slope. Walk down this to the beach, head left/north for Grey and Balding area, or turn right/south for Below and Beyond area.
Accommodation nearby in Cairns, the northern beaches, and Port Douglas.
Clean up after yourselves, and any rubbish you find take home with you. Brush your holds and tick marks before you leave. Locals use the beaches too so be mindful of parking spaces.
Explored by Cameron Wycherley and Jared Tyerman throughout 2018 and 2019, reinvigorated by Nick Murphy in May 2020.
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Northern Retreat - VID_20200517_173239_exported_13729_1589837749575.jpg
Northern Retreat - VID_20200517_165732_exported_61617_1589837543816.jpg
Jamey Lee em Northern Retreat - Jamey on 'Oooooh, My Corona'
Nick Murphy em Grey And Balding - Nick Murphy on the pretty project
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