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Grey And Balding

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Description

The area surrounding one the greater blocks in the northern area.

Access issues inherited from Cairns

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Approach

Can be approached from either carpark. If using the southern one descend the scree slope and walk North along the beach for 100m and you'll find the Widowmaker, further again another 50m and you're at Midway Play, and another 100m and you'll find the "Eye" Boulder on the top of the headland.

Ethic inherited from Pretty Beach

Clean up after yourselves, and any rubbish you find take home with you. Brush your holds and tick marks before you leave. Locals use the beaches too so be mindful of parking spaces.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The eye has since been painted over by a mural of a (funny looking) bird. Very obvious location

Sit start at the right hand side of the wall, underclings and crimps to start, staying left of the arete heading to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Hanging left of the small roof use the jugs on the arete and slap the lip and pull over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Left of 'Beaked' starting in the breaks and heading to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Starting with left hand in the shallow hueco and right hand in the left end of the break. Go straight up from here until over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Sit start under the uphill arete using crimps to start and pulling up to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Sit start to the right of 'Eye On The Prize', fun easy arete climbing.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Sit start the crack, laybacking until you're on top

FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May 2020

Sit start the thin crack, using the face holds and crack make your way over the top

FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May 2020

Finished it yet? Might need a Tuit to remind you.

Sit start on the ledge and using the cracks and seams trend right to the top point and mantle over the corner.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

On the uphill side of the block in the little corner roof.

Sit start with hands on the lower of the two horns and follow the arete up and out to the right.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Start over the hole on the left hand side of the small cave with jugs. Go out and left onto more jugs and head for the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

On the right hand side of the cave that 'Cave Trolling' starts in, go right and out off underclings and jugs to more jugs and pull over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Around near the ocean side of the block, the long flake going from right up to the left. Sit start at the bottom in the flake and use whatever feet, including the block to the left, to pull up and follow it all the way to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Sit start and follow up the middle of the face using the variety of holds.

FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May 2020

Sit start with hands in the break just under the lip and mantle over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Not really worth doing, but it's there. Sit start down and right of the slate block on the face, using the breaks and pretty much sitting on the block on the ground, pull up, slap the lip and pull over.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Sit start with hands on the quartz vein jug rail and muscle and grunt your way around and over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

Sit start to the right of 'HamStrung Out', a bit of a meh problem. Using the bottom of the flake and a face hold pull up over while smearing and mantle off.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Sit start using the flake and follow this over the top. Enjoyable and good for beginners.

FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May 2020

Start as for Golden Age but escape left via big move to the slopey rail. Mantle as for Golden Age.

Sit start on edges. Make your way right and up through a big deadpoint, finish up thin crack.

FA: Callum Mather

Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020

Traverse from low right along sloping rail to thin crack and arete block to gaston face crack and topout.

FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020

Traverse from low right along sloping rail, when the rail ends go up via diagonal left hand crimp or huge move.

FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020

Traverse from low right along sloping rail until you reach the crimp/jug slightly above the rail. Go to the lip via big move and mantle.

FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020

Start low right on sloping rail and go straight up via crimps.

FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020

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Sun 7 May
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