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Grey And Balding

48

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Description

The area surrounding the original problem of the sector that is 'Grey Traverse'

Access issues inherited from Pretty Beach

So far none are known as it all appears to be public land.

Approach

Can be approached from either carpark. If using the southern one descend the scree slope and walk North along the beach for 100m and you'll find the 'Grey Traverse' block, further again another 50m and you're at Midway Play, and another 100m and you'll find the Eye Boulder on the top of the headland.

Ethic inherited from Pretty Beach

Clean up after yourselves, and any rubbish you find take home with you. Don't use huge tick marks, and brush your holds and tick marks off when you leave. Be polite to anyone who comes asking, you never know, they might get involved and be your next best spotter.

History

View historical timeline

Found by either Cameron Wycherley or Jared Tyerman originally at an unknown time. Further developed by Nick Murphy in May 2020.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start at the right hand side of the wall, underclings and crimps to start, staying left of the arete heading to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Hanging left of the small roof use the jugs on the arete and slap the lip and pull over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Left of 'Beaked' starting in the breaks and heading to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Starting with left hand in the shallow hueco and right hand in the left end of the break. Go straight up from here until over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Sit start under the uphill arete using crimps to start and pulling up to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Sit start to the right of 'Eye On The Prize', fun easy arete climbing.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Open Project

Sit start the crack, laybacking until you're on top

FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May

Sit start the thin crack, using the face holds and crack make your way over the top

FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May

Finished it yet? Might need a Tuit to remind you.

Sit start on the ledge and using the cracks and seams trend right to the top point and mantle over the corner.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May

Closed Project

On the uphill side of the block in the little corner roof.

Sit start with hands on the lower of the two horns and follow the arete up and out to the right.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Start over the hole on the left hand side of the small cave with jugs. Go out and left onto more jugs and head for the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

On the right hand side of the cave that 'Cave Trolling' starts in, go right and out off underclings and jugs to more jugs and pull over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Around near the ocean side of the block, the long flake going from right up to the left. Sit start at the bottom in the flake and use whatever feet, including the block to the left, to pull up and follow it all the way to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Sit start and follow up the middle of the face using the variety of holds.

FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May

Sit start with hands in the break just under the lip and mantle over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Open Projectv

Not really worth doing, but it's there. Sit start down and right of the slate block on the face, using the breaks and pretty much sitting on the block on the ground, pull up, slap the lip and pull over.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Open Project

Open Project

Open Project

Sit start with hands on the quartz vein jug rail and muscle and grunt your way around and over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May

Sit start to the right of 'HamStrung Out', a bit of a meh problem. Using the bottom of the flake and a face hold pull up over while smearing and mantle off.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Sit start using the flake and follow this over the top. Enjoyable and good for beginners.

FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May

Closed Project

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 9 May

Traverse from low right along sloping crack to arete block and crack to face crack and topout.

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

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