Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
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Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool features up this one!
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
Much easier than the other 17
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17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Almost decked-out getting to second
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Griefbacon | 25m, 6 | |||||
Great revenge after a few years. Similar to my first attempt, my feet were still painful afterwards
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19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer - with Griefbacon | 15m, 4 | |||||
Really fun even though it is hard to trust the rock in some places as everything sounds shallow.
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21 | ★★ Dick Whittington — 3 attempts - with Griefbacon | 15m, 2 | |||||
Multiple attempts on the initial boulder. The feet are so slippery, ended up going slightly left with a weird feet sequence
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19 | Save the Whale | 10m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very intimidating to get to the first carrot!
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Joey aquilina, Ryan Cooper | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic proper slab climbing, all in the feet
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17 | ★ Space Invaders - with Joey aquilina, Ryan Cooper | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
foot slipped just off the deck on o/s
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack - with Peter Melouney | 15m | |||||
Great to see the thrutchmaster in action sending this bloody thing. Hang dogged the crap out of it with absolutely no dignity.
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Peter Melouney | 25m, 6 | |||||
Struggled hard and retreated. The sharp crimps were destryong my fingers as well as my poor toes, disappointed.
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Peter Melouney | 25m, 6 | |||||
At least can claim top rope revenge! Felt pretty sustained the all way.
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | |||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | |||||
First attenpt on top rope to gain slabfidence
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Friction suddenly blew up, slipped off then had to struggle to stay on.
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Clean first shot
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20 ~21 | ★ Mortal Combat | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Aided thru crux then clean, at least 2 grades harder than Bloodbath. Start could be dyno.
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19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Almost slipping off
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Aurora Pandora | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sharp crimps.
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21 Hard | ★★ Chain Mail Crack - with Aurora Pandora | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stoked to get this clean. Had to fight big time.
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20 ~19 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Aurora Pandora | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Mountains was a bit misty/foggy/rainy but evans delivered again with beautiful dry granite slabbing for the day. Nice warmup
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots — 2 attempts | 25m, 6 | |||||
There are curently 8 bolts for the route and 2 for the anchor. Not sure if this route has recently been retro-bolted but the route is a mixture of rusted bolts on SMC hangers, and new stainless bolts on Madrock hangers.
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Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Graham Dowden | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice edge slabbing. Few sharp crimpy holds but rather trust the feet. If you enjoyed this definitely get on Six Days on the Toad around the corner.
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21 Hard | ★★ Chain Mail Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After a day of excellent slabbing figured we finish it off with a fist crack. Start is strenuous and burly but it eases off once you got good feet. Will be back to try this again.
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20 ~19 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Graham Dowden | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Good edge slabbing.
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19 | ★ Greenies' Delight | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
First top rope solo.
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Haily, Peter Melouney | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Despite having last year clocked up just under 61,000m of vertical ascent (up stairs and bush trails, sadly not rock climbs) the mental rigours of slab climbing seemed to benefit little from aerobic or indeed physical capacity. After several strained moments staring at a pathetic indentation or crystal flake wondering if it could hold a foot or other appendage, one generally retires, shattered, with a well-worn mantra pounding through an overloaded frontal cortex: "These slabs are definitely doing my head in".
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Haily | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Far easier in the sticky Mad Rocks.
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Haily | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
In the new blue Salewa approach shoes for NYD, which, thanks to the innovative Switchfit system and Pomoca sole, permitted a relative upgrade from 19 to 20, toprope notwithstanding.
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | |||||
Mossy choosy wet slabby adventure
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice slabbing
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Wed 6th Dec 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Boytons et al | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Like the proverbial possums up a pole
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Boytons et al | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Definitely easier than the two on the right because of the more definite edges
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19 | ★ Greenies' Delight — 2 attempts - with Boytons et al | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Tenuosity amid the lichen.
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19 | ★ Jonestown - with Boytons et al | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Smears ...
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 Hard | ★★ Chain Mail Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Real good
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Abi Prakash, Angela Ha, Mali W, nick, margot | 25m, 6 | |||||
18 | ★ Splat - with Abi Prakash, Angela Ha, Mali W, nick, margot | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - with Abi Prakash, Angela Ha, Mali W, nick, margot | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Brendan Coulter, Rachael Brock | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good to climb this one after getting rained off belaying Paul on it a couple of years ago! Great sustained slabbing.
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21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack - with Brendan Coulter | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After faffing around with gear and moves off the belay, made it up after pulling on for real. Had me puffing, glad to have the leather crack gloves. Good example of thuggy widish crack style.
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One hell of a remind on how to climb slab. Maybe should have started on something a little more chill to remember my shoes work
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21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Not bad if you’re into that kind of thing.
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Liv | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rpt, really nice
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19 ~18 | ★ Jonestown - with Liv | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much better than scuds, or did I think that because it was easier??
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi - with Liv | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
A rude welcome back to tarana. A healthy runout + small footers + no holds = fear
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Shoe testing session. Liked this one.
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19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Shoe testing session.
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21 | ★★ Dick Whittington | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Shoe testing session.
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Shoe testing session.
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Trivial
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19 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | |||||
I was disappointed. Expected hard, spicy, lichen slab, with questionable bolts. Got trivial slabbing with more bolts than necessary.
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19 | Save the Whale | 10m, 1 | |||||
A few goes to get the start, then cruisey
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13 | Deft | 8m | |||||
Quite nice, less lichen on this one
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12 | Blunt Stick | 8m | |||||
Nice
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Amanda Claxton | 25m, 6 | |||||
Slipped off the first move a few times, then went from the ground. Awesome pitch
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - with cedric | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Did the hard bits, I think, but not being able to reach the 4th carrot from the good stance was the last straw for me friable nerves. Really fun style… but different.
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Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 Easy | ★ Jonestown - with Jake Delaney | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
blew the onsight by going left up top onto the wet slopey zone and grabbed the chains instead of clipping. awesome climb though
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Jonestown - with Tom Bes | 15m, 3 | |||||
my exploded ankle lives on!
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Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Funny how seeing someone make less effort leading nearly twice the grade puts things in perspective.
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19 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | Average | ||||
Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Julie Pon | 25m, 6 | |||||
pretty stoked on this one! was very enjoyable and not a death slab! very well protected! fun for the whole family! one more exclamation point!
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21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack - with Julie Pon | 15m | |||||
haaaard start but maybe eases after that? glad to know its not overgrown like i initially thought! looks mega
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19 | ★ Jonestown - with Julie Pon | 15m, 3 | |||||
3pm and we finally topped something yay!
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Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Mountains in a pall of gloom, Tarana dry.
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Mon 16th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - with Warwick | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Think this has 5 glue in SS bolts up the clean streak.
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19 | ★ Madonnas - with Warwick | 15m | Average | ||||
Think this has 2 old carrots, an overlap, and way too much lichen for a "safe" lead.
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17 | ★ Pass the Lentils - with Warwick | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Master class in sunny slabbing by an old master.
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Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer - with Rafael Andreollo | 15m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - with Rafael Andreollo | 20m, 4 | |||||
Fri 6th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow! So damn good!! Amazing sustained slab climbing.
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | |||||
18 | ★ Splat | 15m | |||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Thu 5th Jan 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat - with Rafael Andreollo | 15m, 3 | |||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer — 3 attempts - with Guilherme Pizzi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
a couple of false starts before I got this done.
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17 | Gear on ★ Kersplat - with Guilherme Pizzi | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another mis-identified route put to rights.
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19 | ★ Greenies' Delight | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Surprised Jeff cruised what looked like a forest of lichen, and perhaps even more that I flash followed.
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19 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Old Slabbers Afternoon with Jeff (leading) and Gayle Boyton, and Rod Kotkis, ably observed by A. Jones of Jonestown (the route), who opined that many routes were not in fact soloed on the FA "because you would die". But who's to disprove that this was an impediment to 19 year old slab specialists? Such as he who reliably informed me he soloed The Fear at North Head back in the day?
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18 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Turns out this is what I've been doing, not other routes, according to the authoritative Old Slabbers, so there we go.
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Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - with Hayden L | 20m, 4 | |||||
18 | ★ Splat - with Hayden L | 15m | |||||
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
First slab in ages
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Pass the Lentils | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard and cold!
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18 | ★★ The Straight and Narrow | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Avoiding the mountains mist: if it's wet in Kat, it's dry at Tarana
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Laps concentrating on no/flat hands above first bolt
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 12th Aug 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - with jin | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Madonnas - with Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough start, then a nice cruise to the top.
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17 | ★ Space Invaders - with Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Found this harder than Madonnas. Quite sustained
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19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer - with Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice featured start, then sweet padding to the top.
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sweeeet climbing. Some really nice actual holds on this one.
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Matt King, Mike Daws, Nathan | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had a big grin when clipping the anchors on this onsight. Got scared a bunch while moving and subsequently trusting my feet (just like every other route today). But dancing up this slab was actually ridiculously fun
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