Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
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Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel | 15m, 4 | |||||
24 | ★ Handsome Julio | 20m | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★ TE6A — 4 attempts | 20m, 5 | |||||
Gets harder towards the top…
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18 | ★ Star Gazer — 2 attempts | 18m, 5 | |||||
Accidentally slipped moving up to the 3rd bolt. Gonna blame the moss
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14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | |||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with Joyce | 20m, 10 | Average | ||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel - with Joyce | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Joyce | 18m, 5 | |||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Joyce | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with Rickles | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel — 2 attempts - with Rickles | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Rickles | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel - with James Wuu | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Need to work on smearing for the lower bit and holding tension on the upper. Such awkward, diabolical fun.
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18 ~19 | ★ Star Gazer - with James Wuu | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Defeated by an 18.
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22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with James Wuu | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Now cleaned. Pulled out clumps every move… to reveal slime underneath for some spicy bridging.
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21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
18 Hard | ★ Star Gazer | 18m, 5 | |||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 | ★ TE6A - with Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel - with Kiera Montgomery | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Kiera Montgomery | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 | ★ TE6A - with James Wuu | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with James Wuu | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel - with James Wuu | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with James Wuu | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
20 | ★ TE6A | 20m, 5 | |||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | |||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel | 15m, 4 | |||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Flo Roeske | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun. Some cool moves and nice holds. Great view from the top.
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 | Big Bird - with Ryan, Lizzy | 20m, 8 | |||||
One of the most mossy climbs I've had the pleasure of climbing.
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with Frankie | 20m, 10 | Average | ||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with Evie Hall | 20m, 10 | Average | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun traverse. Good practice.
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16 | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good warm up.
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Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Hard Trad Specialist - with Jacob Kuchler | 15m, 4 | |||||
Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | |||||
Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 Hard | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 | ★ TE6A - with Samuel Malan, VillaBot | 20m, 5 | Average | ||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel - with Samuel Malan, VillaBot | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with Samuel Malan, VillaBot | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Alexei Drummond, Samuel Malan | 18m, 5 | Average | ||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Marnus, Samuel Malan | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bit tricky for the grade but with some quite nice moves.
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Wed 12th Jan 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
I get the name now
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16 | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty committing moves around the block, otherwise chill climbing
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Sun 21st Mar 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | |||||
20 | ★ TE6A | 20m, 5 | |||||
Wed 24th Feb 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 21st Feb 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
22 | ★★ Easy Lay | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 13th Jan 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Start is pretty mossy. View from top is great
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14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun, easy, traverse. Had to downclimb to retrieve gear
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Tue 29th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Andrew | 20m | |||||
Tue 22nd Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 | Big Bird | 20m, 8 | |||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | |||||
23 | ★ Hands Christian | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Proper Waipapa 23, i.e. stiff for the grade. Really technical climbing throughout, especially around 4th bolt. Had to give it my all to bag it #3rdGo. Would deserve 2 stars when clean.
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24 | ★★ No Country for Old Men | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Slightly harder than Sex Kitten but still on the softer side for Waipapa. Really cool, varied climbing. Technical first crux around 4th bolt and powerful second crux to leave the ledge. I think Rock Deluxe and Free Climb guides got the 2 climbs mixed up: Doing it at Dawn is significantly harder, grade 25+. #2ndGo
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Tue 15th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 | Big Bird | 20m, 8 | |||||
20 | Big Bird | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
20 is way more realistic than 18. Difficultly pretty sustained throughout. Technical laybacking. Would deserve 2 stars when clean.
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Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
24 | ★ Handsome Julio - with Jonno, Amy | 20m | |||||
TR attempt. Couldn't do the moves across above bolt 2. Enough, happy to take on belay chores.
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18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Amy, Jonno, Greer | 18m, 5 | Average | ||||
Finally off my dog list. A desperate moment with wrist lockup and rope behind leg before bolt 3. Took the separate finish at top. I never need to climb this again.
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16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Amy, Jonno, Greer | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
A thinking 16, really enjoyable. Still tired.
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Sat 17th Oct 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
20 | ★ TE6A | 20m, 5 | |||||
Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with Alex, Jonno, Fletcher | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
So Jonno tells me it's 19, cheers mate ... draws on. One sit. Clipping the draw above the crux then downclimbing takes some sting out, then bridging above the layback is 19-20 ish. Centre is a greasy drain, avoid, apart from the jam. On the revisit list. Nothing clean, another Waipapa spanking.
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Sun 31st May 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with John Pitcairn | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
First climb since pre Covid lockdown. This was good. Plenty to think about
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16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Grant Johnston | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Warmup. Declined to get on Star Gazer.
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Mon 23rd Mar 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | |||||
Sun 16th Feb 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
24 | ★★ Doing it at Dawn - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lead-climbed this clean to the fourth bolt on first attempt. Second attempt I top-roped it clean to the fifth bolt, then hang-dogged from there to the 7th bolt. Then aid-climbed the last two bolts to the anchors The top part is way too hard for me at the moment. This will not be my first 24!
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Tue 4th Feb 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
24 | ★★ Doing it at Dawn | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
The first 2/3 seems doable but then it gets properly hard. Took a spanking on this one.
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22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with Richard Flinn | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Clear crux at the 4th bolt to get settled onto a layback position. Harder than it looks. Got it 3rd go.
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Sun 19th Jan 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 | Big Bird - with Alexei Drummond | 20m, 8 | Don't Bother | ||||
What a muddy af, horrible excuse for a slab lol! That plus me not having my head in it AT ALL... yeah. I noped out.
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Sun 12th Jan 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer | 18m, 5 | |||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard for grade. Hot day though
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Thu 26th Dec 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Hard Trad Specialist | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
24 | ★ Handsome Julio | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Nov 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell at crux between 3rd and 4th bolt while putting the gear up for Alex. Did the move second attempt and up to the anchor.
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23 | ★ Hands Christian - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 8 | |||||
"Warm up" No idea how to get to the 4th bolt.
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22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with Alexei Drummond | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Came back and got the send today, crimpy climb. Did the same beta as I worked out for the crux last time. After getting crimps in both hands (right one is solid, left is crap but better than anything else), stepping up left foot high onto angled thin chip, cranking hard on left foot and standing right up to get left hand (for me) into next crack for the second layback. Right foot on small imperfection in middle of face, right hand in crack too. Then shift feet up onto little ledge while laying back.
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Sat 16th Nov 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Gareth Hall | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fell getting across out of the crack this time. Ankle behind rope, partially inverted, nice rope burn. Lowered and pulled the rope. Getting pissed off.
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18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Gareth Hall | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Getting too pumped. A few sits. Nemesis. Screw it.
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18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Gareth Hall | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
After Gareth got it with one fall, being a bit taller helps. I was almost at the 3rd bolt jug, then pitched off unexpectedly. Dammit. Lowered and pulled the rope.
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16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Gareth Hall | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 9th Nov 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Cool warm up and a nice easy traverse. Fun, good for beginners. As a traverse best to climb back down to collect your gear (you can't rappel / abseil).
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16 | ★ Baby Driver | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
This is a great warmup. Nice short slab at the top to start you thinking.
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22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flash attempt. Couldn’t work out the move from 3rd to 4th bolt and had to rest on rope. Climbed it clean above that after cheating the crux. Even though I topped it I am calling this an attempt, rather than a hang dog because I grabbed the 4th quickdraw to clip it, and then haul up.
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22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | |||||
Redpoint on second attempt! Got some wicked beta from Dion for the move from 3rd to 4th bolt and climbed it clean straight away
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22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with Alexei Drummond | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Shoot, almost had it! Worked out a good beta for the crux (3rd to 4th bolt) - pulling on the solid right hand crimp and the poor but doable lefthand crimp, get high left foot on tiny crimp bar, step right up all the way on it and jam hand into crack sidepull moving into the opposite layback position to the bottom (bottom lays back to the left, crux lays back to the right). Step up the right foot to chip Alexei found and chalked (like the crimp bar, it is angled well for layback to the right), moving hands up the crack. Step onto slanted ledge to clip 4th bolt. Then into the stemming finish.
(Note to myself: at the start, during left layback, get the high sidepull/crimp in the crack with the RIGHT HAND and keep left hand lower on less good sidepull because you'll want to move up and out left next!) |
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Sat 26th Oct 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with Alexei Drummond | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up for Aiden. Fun little traverse, a little dusty but not too bad
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14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up
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Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Jack Robertshaw, Atma | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Retrieving anchor.
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18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Atma, Jack Robertshaw | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
FInally got up it, with a couple of decent falls on 2nd bolt. A tricky bugger through the lower half, stiff for 18. Stayed over the bolts to the right up high then a very delicate wee step left to meet the top slab of Baby Driver. Really good, will return.
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16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Jack Robertshaw, Atma | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Moss down low is navigable enough, fingers got bloody cold though.
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Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
20 | ★ TE6A | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Last climb of the day so why not jump on a 20 I thought haha. Not sure how to top out without grabbing the chains.. will revisit.
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Sat 2nd Mar 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome climb, quite tricky upto mantle move. Would say crux is between bolt 1 & 2. Had two falls. Pretty exhausting lower half. I'd call it more of a 19.
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Tue 1st Jan 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
22 | ★★ Easy Lay | 20m, 10 | |||||
Tue 20th Mar 2018 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
24 | ★ Handsome Julio | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel | 15m, 4 | Average | ||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good |