Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★ Turboelskeren | ||||||
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 Easy | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 28th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5- ~5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
P2 is more like 20m, so P1/P2 could be linked with a 50m rope.
B4, B5 & B6 are bolted.
It´s possible to climb right after P5 to the abseil line (1 bolt). Better don‘t rappel from the belay: there are most likely peoply below and apparently it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flakes.
P6 is poorly protectable in the beginning, then ok. It‘s nice climbing.
P5 is absolutely amazing.
We didn‘t climb P7.
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Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | |||||||
7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - with Pat | 600m | ★ Good | ||||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
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Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- ~6 | ★★ Apa - with Ola | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good first jams on the top of boulder overlooking the beach. Flowy and hard, really glad to send it 7 years after I fist tried it. On send run i used two #4 and one #3.
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Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
5+ | Cant believe its not butter - with Francesco Mancino | Average | |||||
Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - with Pat | 100m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
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Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Skiløperen - with Ola | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great combination of hand jams and jugs, whith just a little overhang to not make it too easy. Middle crack was a bit wet, but could be climbed anyways. Bring a lot of cams!
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- |
★★★ Gaukerisset
- with
Ola
1
3+
20
2
6-
45
| 65m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Atletic and committing crux, then super long and pretty chill crack, with crazy exposure.
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
4+ | ★ Lett bris - with Ola | Average | |||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts - with Ola | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first "real" trad redpoint. I fell on the crux a couple of times, then used aid to set up a top-rope on the crux. Figured out the beta and sent on the first red-point go. Very tecnical route, super fun!
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
4+ | ★ Lett bris - with Francesco Mancino | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
5+ | Cant believe its not butter - with Ola | ★ Good | |||||
A #5 cam would have been useful in the end. Fun route!
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | Crack glove ★★ Living in Paradise - with Ola | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise - with Francesco Mancino | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rappelled in from the top on gear anchor, 40m rope.
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Firts belay a bit earlier bc of the loose rock.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ |
★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute
- with
Ola
1
4
35m
2
4+
20m
3
4+
20m
led part of it.
4
4+
30m
| 110m | ★ Good | ||||
A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||||
4+ | ★★★ Nordryggen - with Ola | 510m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ett riktigt alpint äventyr. 14tim bil till bil. Ledde alla 4or, som visade sig vara riktigt fina och krävande på olika vis. Fantastska utsikt, mycket exponering.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Storsvaet | |||||||
4 | ★ Storsvaet | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3+ | ★★ Too Wide for Paradise | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
3+ | ★★ Back to Paradise | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Pizzatyven
- with
Ola
1
5-
30m
2
5-
25m
3
6
12m
4
5
15m
5
5+
18m
| 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very good route! The crack pitches felt hard for the grade, but the 6 crux pitch felt relatively easy... maybe spent too much time in the gym?
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ |
★★ Appelcake Arete
- with
Ola
1
2
| 60m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice route! First pitch is a bit bold, second one pretty hard for the grade, but beatiful!
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 ~5+ | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | |||||
Mit Lenja, wiederholt. Super performance von Lenja!
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5 ~5+ | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | |||||
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | |||||
mit benno, vor der wanderung, 2. route am tag
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6- |
★★★ Guns n' Roses
- with
Ola
1
5
40m
2
6-
25m
3
6-
25m
| 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beatuful! Every pitch had good and varied climbing, first pitch you have to commit but get rewarded!
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5 |
★★★ Gandalf
- with
Ola
1
5
40
2
5-
35
3
5-
25
| 100m | ★ Good | ||||
Start trickier than expected. Eagles nest at midnight was magical!
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5 |
★★★ Gollum
- with
Ola
1
5
2
5-
3
5-
| 110m | |||||
Comminting first crux, then easier. Nice crack in the middle.
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
With Benno, 10:15h, incredible midnightsun! 4h decent do the car
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Fri 14th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Pizzatyven | 100m | |||||
with Benno, first route
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Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6a | ★ Forselv rederi | ||||||
6a | ★★ Is this all, Sophie? | ||||||
Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Korstoget
- with
Andrea O
1
6
35
2
5
40
3
6
40
| 120m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Korstoget into Vestpillaren
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Honnikornsvaet | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Puffrisset - with Dylan van drunen | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A great route but 3rd pitch runout on the slab was spicy. The sling block is the only gear and it sounds heinously hollow. Put a few hairs on me chest.
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Dylan van drunen | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf - with Dylan van drunen | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Pizzatyven - with Dylan van drunen | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Reachy crux for the short person. Unable to reach the finger jam from the highest feet, so had to crank on some slopy crimp to make it possible. I’d suggest 6+/7- for those under 5,4 feet. A real quality route
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær - with Caitlin and Will | 250m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
5+ |
★★★ Forsida
- with
Jann, Niklaus, jelle
1
3+
20m
2
4
16m
3
5
30m
4
5
30m
5
5+
20m
| 120m | |||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær - with Jann, Niklaus, jelle | 250m | |||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Vestpillaren original starten - with Jann, Niklaus | 140m | |||||
Zustieg sehr anspruchsvoll, Einstieg schwer zu finden
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf - with Jelle, Jann, Niklaus | 100m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Niklaus | 110m | |||||
Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - with Dylan van drunen | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just great.
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Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Rage of Honor — 2 attempts - with Caitlin, Will | ★ Good | |||||
Fun climb however big flake unsettling to pull hard on.
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6c | ★★ Campingliv - with Caitlin and Will | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Dylan Van Drunen | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 28th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Justad Trolldalstjonna | |||||||
6B | Mad Max | ||||||
7A | ★★★ King fisher — 5 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Working on the last 3 moves. Got attacked by the sandflies. Impressive boulder
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Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
6a+ Hard | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5c Hard | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | |||||
Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 ~5+ |
★★★ Gollum
1
5
Hard for the grade.
2
5-
Initially hard from stand, followed by nice crack climbing before a steeper section with hod holds.
3
5-
Easy last pitch. It is possible to do the route in two pitches with a 60 m rope. | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5 Hard |
★★★ Bare Blåbær
1
4
26m
2
5
34m
3
5-
32m
4
5-
28m
5
5-
40m
| 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Joined P1/P2 and descent (abseil) after P5.
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Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
4+ Hard | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 25th May 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6a ~5c | ★ Forselv rederi | ||||||
Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Northeast Rulten | |||||||
WI4 M4 | ★ Syklotronen - with Christoffer Martinsen | ★ Good | |||||
Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6a 5b | ★ Turboelskeren | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6b+ | ★ Rage of Honor | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 3rd Sep 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Ursvika | |||||||
6A | Thor försökte | ||||||
6B | ★ Han är bara lat | ★ Good | |||||
6B | ★ Han är bara lat | ★ Good | |||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Heimlich maneuver | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Nico and Alba | 110m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf - with Nico and Aba | 100m | |||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete - with Nico and Alba | 60m | |||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute - with Nico | 110m | |||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Storsvaet | |||||||
3+ | ★★ Back to Paradise - with Nico | 27m | |||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Dammen | |||||||
3+ | Diederet - with Nico | 10m | |||||
4+ | ★★ Sentrums risset - with Nico | 10m | |||||
4+ | ★★ Venstre risset - with Nico | 10m | |||||
Mon 15th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Dammen | |||||||
3+ | Diederet - with Adele Westgård | 10m | |||||
4+ | ★★ Sentrums risset - with Adele Westgård | 10m | |||||
Crack newbies
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4+ | ★★ Venstre risset - with Adele Westgård | 10m | |||||
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
5 | ★ Liten diagonal - with Adele Westgård | 10m | |||||
3 | ★ Liten og lett - with Adele Westgård | 10m | |||||
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
3+ | ★ Butter Balls - with Adele Westgård | 30m | |||||
Sat 13th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6a 5c | ★ Eggulf | ||||||
6a 5c | ★★ Baginski spesial | ||||||
6a | ★ Forselv rederi | ||||||
6b+ 6c | ★★ Lille vakre anna | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Commando | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Heimlich maneuver | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Gullfaks | 20m | |||||
7b+ 7b | ★★★ Alopølsa | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a | ★★ Alkotest | 20m | |||||
6b+ 6c/c+ | ★★ Ildvann | 15m | |||||
Mon 8th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder D | |||||||
4 | Baugetaket | ||||||
Nice way to get down from the other boulders as well instead of walking all the way around.
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