Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
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Tue 25th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6+ Easy | ★★★ Blod eller gull - with Vegard With Stennes | 95m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A dihedral, roof, OW & some face climbing. Topo says 6+, description says 6 in the guidebook. Either way, crux is short & well protected & there´s lots of nice movement on this one.
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Ingen sommerferie - with Fanny | 72m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds drøm - with Fanny | 80m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Skårungen | |||||||
5 | ★ Skårungens Dans | ★ Good | |||||
Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder D | |||||||
6C | ★★ Taktraversen | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder C | |||||||
6A | ★ Skrårisset | ||||||
Fri 31st Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | |||||
Thu 30th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||||
7 |
★★★ Storpillaren
- with
Håvard Indrevik
1
5
45m
2
6-
30m
3
7-
40m
4
7
40m
5
6
20m
6
7-
35m
7
6+
20m
8
6-
40m
9
5
55m
10
5
50m
11
4
45m
12
4
50m
13
3
40m
14
6-
30m
15
5
35m
16
45m
| 620m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 30th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder L | |||||||
6B+ | Jockes vegg | ||||||
6B+ | Wegges vegg | ||||||
7A | ★ Lave taket | ||||||
Don’t think this is 7a?
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Thu 30th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder C | |||||||
5+ | Skreihodet | ||||||
Thu 30th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder B | |||||||
6A | ★ Lave traversen | ★ Good | |||||
Tue 28th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Rope solo in 4,5 hours, Managed to do it in a total of 6 pitches with an 80 metre rope.
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Tue 28th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Vågarisset | 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 27th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
7 7 R | ★★★ The Codfather - with Simon Walfridsson | 500m | |||||
Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Himmelen kan vente | 310m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Butter Arms | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Yeeew. 5th lead go. Eline cruised it on her first go of the day.
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Sat 25th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Silmarillion Wall | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Silmarillion | 170m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 25th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
5 | ★★ Rapellruta - with Stein Håkon Vatle | 48m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Startet i regnvær, så alt var vått. Guiden satt topptau. Enkel grei rute med spektakulær utsikt. Skylaget og regnet forsvant og Lofoten åpenbarte seg fra toppen 😍
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Wed 22nd Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Sørfjellet | |||||||
5+ | ★ Luke Skywalker - with Fanny | 65m | Average | ||||
Squeezed in something new between the rain. Wouldn´t go back
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Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Johanne Regine Gustavsen, Sam | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
P2/P3 can be linked by stretching a 60m. Easier than the neighbouring Gamle rev (perhaps easiest 6 in Lofoten?)
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Mon 13th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden | |||||||
6+ | ★★ The Next Best Thing - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 380m | ★ Good | ||||
Most people I´ve chatted with seem to enjoy this route. I thought it was total shit. I guess some sections of the lower pitches are nice?
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Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Gullfaks (Gullfax) | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Commando | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Trolldalen Trollfestningen | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Fingerrisset - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A fun bonus pitch when your already up there. Lower-off´s a nest of fixed nuts (good slings w/ quicklink)
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Sat 27th Jun 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Håvard Sæppele | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Håvard Sæppele | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Håvard Sæppele | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 7th Jun 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 5th Jun 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Himmelen kan vente - with Eric Sundquist | 310m | |||||
Thu 28th May 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder A | |||||||
6A | ★★ Prestentraversen - with Fanny | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Thu 28th May 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder C | |||||||
4 | Flaket - with Fanny | ||||||
4+ | Torskeryggen - with Fanny | ||||||
5+ | Fiskeøyet - with Fanny | ||||||
6A | ★ Manteleggen - with Fanny | ||||||
5 | Fiskerisset - with Fanny | ||||||
Thu 28th May 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder B | |||||||
6A | ★ Øverhengende veggen - with Fanny | ★ Good | |||||
4 | Stigen - with Fanny | ||||||
6A | ★★ Meyers gamasjer - with Fanny | ||||||
6A | Veggegg - with Fanny | ||||||
Thu 28th May 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder L | |||||||
5 | ★ Skjult sprekk - with Fanny | ||||||
6A | ★ Fingeravtrykk - with Fanny | ||||||
4+ | ★★ Masse tak - with Fanny | ||||||
5+ | Bakkeveggen - with Fanny | ||||||
6A | Gråeggen - with Fanny | ||||||
Thu 28th May 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder A | |||||||
5 | ★ Stive støvler - with Fanny | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Haakons vegg - with Fanny | ||||||
5+ | ★ Arilds vegg - with Fanny | ||||||
5 | ★ Kjell Oves vegg - with Fanny | ||||||
Sun 24th May 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Stamsund | |||||||
6b | ★ Corona chimney - with Yngve | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
6b | ★★ Tims drøm - with Yngve | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd May 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Ant pillar extension - with Lo | 90m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 30th Apr 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Housewives | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Housewives - with Lo | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
My favourite finger crack in Lofoten. Sustained & full value for the grade. Couple of extra finger sized pieces nice.
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Sat 25th Apr 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Trollmannens uløselige mysterium - with Kjetil | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#4 for the start & #5 finish works ok
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Sun 19th Apr 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- | ★ Running for Rasmus - with Kjetil, Fanny | 85m | Crap | ||||
Tried to ignore chronic medial epicondylitis from all the salmon murdering. Didn´t go well. Dragged up by my ropeguns (it´s probably a nice route)
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Sat 18th Apr 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- | Chimp - with Kjetil | Crap | |||||
Short, loose & akward.
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6- | ★★ Apa - with Kjetil | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 9th Apr 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Dammen | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Venstre risset - with Lo, Kjetil | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6- | Tynn - with Lo, Kjetil | 10m | Average | ||||
4+ | ★★ Sentrums risset - with Lo, Kjetil | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
About as good as a 10m 4+ can get. Flott klatring
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Mon 30th Mar 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6a+ | Cobra - with Kjetil | Average | |||||
5b | ★ Turboelskeren - with Kjetil | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 21st Mar 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg | |||||||
WI4+ WI4+ M5 R | ★★ Running from Wuhan - with Stian Bruvoll | 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
WI3 | ★★ Venstre side - with Stian Bruvoll | 500m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 22nd Jan 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Nipen Lille Nipen | |||||||
M6 | ★ Hvitt pulver - with Vegard With Stennes | 70m | ★ Good | ||||
No sun, snow or ice so threw ourselves at this thing in between polar storms. Very glad to have a stoked Vegard charging up just as the next cold front hit
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Wed 8th Jan 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf - with Vegard With Stennes | 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
If you can keep the rope running straight, a 60m gets you to top from the P1 belay.
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2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Håvard Sæppele | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Håvard Sæppele | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 17th Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Gollum is the more secure solo. Wouldn´t do this again..
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5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 15th Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lost Expressen - with Kjetil, Lo, Fanny | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Smeagul - with Kjetil, Lo, Fanny | 110m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 9th Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | |||||||
6- | ★★ Celebrian - with Kjetil | 530m | ★ Good | ||||
Milking the last of the climbing season linking this, Vestpillaren & a couple of laps on Gandalf for an epic Lofoten 30 pitch day
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Tue 8th Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Vikingjenta - with Kjetil | 75m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice varied climbing. The initial lower block sounds loose & vibrates. Use caution/climb at your own risk for this section.
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6 | ★★ Johan Boyer - with Kjetil | 75m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 7th Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Lower Wall | |||||||
4 | FA Bombs over bogans - with Kjetil | 30m | Average | ||||
5 | FA Røyskatten - with Kjetil | 30m | Average | ||||
Thu 3rd Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
6 | FA ★★ At dawn, we ride - with Vegard With Stennes, Charlie | 190m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 2nd Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Lower Wall | |||||||
6- | FA ★★ Hun hater meg, det liker jeg! - with Vegard With Stennes | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | FA ★ Vegard Ruta 2 - with Vegard With Stennes | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
5 | FA ★ Vegard Ruta 1 - with Vegard With Stennes | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 2nd Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7 | FA ★★★ Running for Teo - with Vegard With Stennes | 130m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 1st Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- | ★★ Ole Johnny tribute - with Vegard | 80m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 1st Oct 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Månedans - with Vegard With Stennes | 95m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Så fin! Linked 1/2. P3 is beautiful, sustained finger jamming in a corner before a burly mantle (or not, I was pumped out of my brain by then) followed by exciting slab to the top. Sandbagged at the grade by Lofoten standards. Recommended!
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Fri 27th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Ypperstepresten - with Vegard With Stennes | 220m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Easy to link into 3 pitches with 60m rope (belay as close as possible to the roof on P1). Good rock & safe gear.
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Thu 26th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Lower Wall | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Elvis - with Fanny | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sustained and balancy climbing. Bring extra small cams & micro wires.
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Wed 25th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Jomfrupillaren | |||||||
7- | ★★ Bingekos - with Fanny | 120m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb with 4 varied pitches. The OW (P2) might just be the crux thou it protects well with a standard rack via a broken seem to the left for all but the last 4/5m (where a tipped #6 fits & is nice to have).
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Mon 23rd Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika The Rock and Roll Ridge | |||||||
3 | ★★ The Rock and Roll Ridge | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sun 22nd Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Jomfrupillaren | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Vårkåt - with Fanny, Kjetil | 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Doesn´t get much better than this. Extra .3-.5 nice & #3 useful for pitches 2/3
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Sat 21st Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Gandalf original avslutning - with Fanny | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 20th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | Slemgutt risset | Average | |||||
Fri 20th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Mjölkmustasch - with Fanny | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 14th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Fire forsøk | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Windy as fuck. Kaisa led pitch 1, I did 2 and 3
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Sat 7th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 7th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Butter Arms - with Jon Shen | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
First hard trad line. Thanks Jon for the placements and the two day support session.
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Thu 5th Sep 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Dosethrisset | |||||||
7 ~7- | ★★★ Dosethrisset - with Fanny | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 30th Aug 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika The Rock and Roll Ridge | |||||||
3 | ★★ The Rock and Roll Ridge | ★ Good | |||||
Fri 30th Aug 2019 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Automatic for the People | 45m, 11 | ★★★ Classic |