A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 141.836659, -36.751605
- Description:© (secretary)
The best rock in this area - and indeed on the mountain.
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Approach:© (secretary)
The big streaked and polished face, right of the Watchtower.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Start up the Watchtower Crack and then take a crack that leads up left to join original finish of 'Pumping' Part 1, a sweeping crack that leads to the large ledge at the first belay of Watchtower Crack.
FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Newman, Nick Reeves., 1978
Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top.
Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam
FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull, 6th Mar
An obvious link pitch but it doesn't justify the voyage required to do it.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Mark Morhead, 1980
A technical, exhilirating route. A great contrast to its companion climb.
Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 25th Apr
If anyone suggests doing this climb, make sure they second the dangerous abseil section.
If anyone is even considering extending the climb by girdling the left Watchtower face and linking the two, could you please shoot yourself beforehand and save the rest of us the bother.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, 1967
Pumping Part II
This climb is very rarely done because of the seriousness of the first pitch, originally climbed as the second pitch of 'Pumping'.
To further enhance the experience you could probably run the two pitches together with a 70 metre rope - that would be a trip.
FA: Pitch 1: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan. Pitch 2, 1979
FA: Mark Moorhead and many more., 1980
Two interesting pitches that used to be thought very bold. But times change. Apparently gear can be found on the first pitch and Keith Egerton proved that even hexentrics in the horizontal breaks on the second pitch were adequate for 10 metre falls. The second pitch has cleaned up enormously over the years.
FA: Pitch 1 (Skink Connection) : Peter and Kevin Lindorff. Pitch 2 : Andrew Thomson, Mike Stone, 1976
Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing.
Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.
FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, 19th Dec
Great climbing all the way. One of the best and most varied climbs of its grade on the Watchtower Faces. Individual pitch grades were not supplied - the overall grade is 15 but some pitches may be easier.
Start: As for 'The Confession'.
FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood. (alts) This climb has been about 30 years in the making, although the above party were first to do it in its entirety., 2004
Very good pitch. Make sure to take some tiny wires for the crux move.
Start 10 metres right of Watchtower Crack at a little block.
Note: this route is marked incorrectly in Simey and Glenn's '99 guide. It goes up the curvaceous white streak at 2/3 height, slightly right of where it is marked on page 230.
FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood, 1975
Normally done as part of Gollum and is described as the first pitch of that climb.
Start: At the rap anchors in the middle of the RWF (Salamander ledge).
FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens., 1996
No Road Between
Generally moderate slab climbing with good but spaced gear leading to trickier terrain up the final streak providing an alternative first pitch for Gollum. Double ropes and a big rack help to arrange protection.
Climb midway between The Confession and Auto de Fe, mostly 1.5 – 2m left of Auto de Fe. At about 2/3 height cross the small diagonal overlap and follow the brown streak with 2 parallel white stripes (clearly seen in the topo on p278 of Metz/Tempest guide) to the ledge.
This climb description was derived from a Chockstone post by Stuart.
FA: Stuart Holloway, Lachie Currie, 2005
Auto Da Fe
A fantastic climb with three fantastic pitches of very different styles.
Start: At a hard move to large dish, avoidable
FA: Robin Miller, Kim Karrigan, 1982
auto de fear
chop route, no gear, 23 slabing with an X rating
FA: muki Woods
Fly Lichen Eagle
The superb second pitch has only one drawback, the possibility of being knocked off by an abseil rope from above.
This was an extremely bold, mossy lead before abseil route went in.
FA: Chris Baxter, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Megens, 1983
A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to 'Salamander' or as a climb in its own right.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, John Moore, 7th Aug
|18||Gecko / Salamander Link||14||3100m|
Waiwera (Brolga DF)
The original finish of 'Brolga' and the best way to finish the climb, if the rap route is not in use. Probably grade 18 if the final bulge to the rap anchor is taken direct or about 14 if taken further left. At end of Brolga P2, up and left to join 'Fly lichen Eagle'.
FA: D.Smith, 1994
Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock.
Start: Middle of the face.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Bowman, 1975
Thank Heavens for the Tasman
Plugs the gap between 'Brolga' and The Mantle; a void not improved by the filling.
Start 3 metres right of 'Brolga'.
FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983
More great slabbing.
Start: 8 metres right of 'Brolga', directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.
27m (13) Go up on the left and move right into the weakness. Up weakness then face to ledge, just left of some swordgrass. 46m (14) Up the wall past a bolt for 30 metres to the bulge. Pass this and find a semi-hanging belay above. People used to belay below the bulge but the anchors were poor. 14m (6) Easily up.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965
FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 24th Apr
The first of a couple of nondescript routes up the vast moss gardens of the right Watchtower.
Start 5 metres right of 'The Mantle' at a clean seam.
FA: Kieth Lockwood, Geoff Gledhill, Barry Edwards, 1981
Another mossy filler.
Start 8 metres right of Lounge LIzard on cleanish rock.
FA: Peter Kraehenbuhl, Darren Crawford, 1990
Another just OK route wandering its way up the moss. Superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'.
FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1983
FA: See Chameleon and Joyride, 2000
Another climb superseded by 'Chameleon Connection'.
FA: Peter Watling, Keith Lockwood, Kathy Burman (alt), 1975
Another clean streak that is proving popular.
Start: 10m Left of 'Panzer'.
FA: Yosef Murphy, Shaun Kratzer
Start: Directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.
FA: Bruce Hocking, Mike Stone, 19th Mar
Battle Of The Bulge
Good climbing but crux bulge is poorly protected. Originally graded 16.
FA: Yosef Murphy, John Fischer, 2007
Start on the terrace of Panzer's first belay, 4 metres right of the 'Panzer' corner.
FA: Darren Crawford, Peter Kaehenbuehl (alt), 1990
|Gecko / Salamander Link||3100m|
|Thank Heavens for the Tasman||395m|
|Watchtower Crack||4, 3100m|
|18||Omaha Beach||3, 180m|
|Waiwera (Brolga DF)||20m|
|19 R||Battle Of The Bulge||30m|
|20 X||Fly Lichen Eagle||290m|
|21||No Road Between||40m|
|21 R||Auto Da Fe||390m|
|22 X||auto de fear||40m|
|23 X||Pumping Part II||288m|