Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Mar 29 Sept 2009 | |||||
Couldn't figure crux beta. Had to phone a friend.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 1 Oct. 2009 | ||||
Thanks CRUX mag beta. [4]
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Sam 29 Avr 2006 | ||||
1 rest, needed another day, as I just got the knee roll crux move sorted, boo hoo hoo. I'll be back for this STOUT Gem!! [2]
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 27 Juil 2005 | ||||
WOW!!!!! It'l go...
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Jeu 1 Oct. 2009 | |||||
To top
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Jeu 1 Oct. 2009 | |||||
Redpoint burn. Failed on crux.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Dim 1 Déc 2002 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 4 Déc 2005 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Lun 5 Mai 2014 | ||||
Not sure if this tuff unit is the best 27 in the grampains but it is good. Got up the the crux but in shit conditions it was proving to hard to climb past so a bailed. Next time..?
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Dim 15 Jan 2012 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Ven 11 Juil 2014 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mar 28 Juil 2015 | ||||
2 shots. GREAT climbing, but ridiculously cruxy. Between a 2-move crux that is 3 grades harder than anything else on this route, and the rubbish equipping (trad is fine, but carrot bolt, fixed wire, mangled hangers and no anchor?) I could never call this Classic. Outside of the first 2 moves of the crux, the climbing is classy, outrageous, improbable and stylish. All the HALLMARKS of a classic. I never truly managed to do the crux sequence as a SEQUENCE but cruised (and loved) the rest.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Dim 11 Sept 2016 | ||||
3 shots today. Got most of it dialled but cant QUITE do the crux, as 4 times out of 5 my heel skates out mid-sequence. With a TINY bit of rope tension at the start of the sequence (to set the heel) I can do it okay... just gotto sort that heel.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Lun 12 Sept 2016 | ||||
One more lap. Everything else but the crux is sorted... but no improvement on the crux... I give up. Great climbing. Stupidly cruxy and sandbagged. Rubbish bolting and the gear is annoying. Not 3 stars for the gramps, nor even for muline.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - avec Troy | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 13 Avr 2017 | ||||
AHHHHH the move still eludes me. The rest of the route is great and about 24 ish
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Ven 21 Avr 2017 | ||||
Couldn't even conceive doing the heel crux on last years trip, but stoked to put it together this time. Prolonged the Gramps trip one more day to brave 50mm rain to get the send after punting off the last throw the day before.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Lun 24 Avr 2017 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Sam 22 Juil 2017 | ||||
28 27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 29 Nov. 2017 | ||||
28 27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Ven 8 Déc 2017 | ||||
28 with the top pitch (which is a must do) is about right in my opinion
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Sam 7 Oct. 2017 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - avec B | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Dim 3 Juin 2018 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - avec Brent | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 14 Sept 2018 | ||||
Lowered at crux.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - avec Brent | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 14 Sept 2018 | ||||
Crux is brutal.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - avec Brent | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 14 Sept 2018 | ||||
Some linkage, could maybe see this going except for the crux at this point. Need to get stronger! Great climbing
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Oct. 2018 | ||||
Didnt pull the crux move but its all great climbing, not inspired above the ledge.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | Lun 1 Oct. 2018 | |||||
#2go Nice bit of rock climbing right there. Go to the top!
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22 | Warwick's Wafflecone | 15m, 4 | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
24 24 R | ★★ After Midnight Pitch 2 | 15m, 4 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Lun 7 Nov. 2016 | ||||
Perfect warm up for the eye
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26 | FA ★★★ Pretty Foxy - avec Dylan, Ben | 54m, 4 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Dim 23 Sept 2018 | ||||
FFA. Bloody Brilliant! Crack, technical vertical and slab climbing; 26 seems fair. The climbing is very good, the length and position make this a classic I reckon. The upper crux, after the last bolt (where I came off during my heartbreaking first try) is the RP crux imho (the moves are as hard as on the lower crux plus you have 40m of rope+ropedrag pulling you down). In addition, the upper crux can currently not be protected on lead. For my lead try, I extended a small wire from higher up beforehand, so that the biner was at the same height as bolt used to be (patched bolt hole). Anyone knows what happened top that bolt? Would have been just before the upper crux. (FFA?). It's also a tad run-out in places (ended up having 13 pieces (incl bolts) in the 54m).
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | 2002 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 16 Fév 2004 | ||||
Mega hard bouldery start. Super classic headwall finish which is simply AMAZING!
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Sam 1 Avr 2006 | ||||
1 1/2 move wonder
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | 2000 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Sam 5 Juin 2004 | ||||
Very tricky start!!! Took me ages to find the sequence, and then took a 6 metre whipper on a cam, never forget this one.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Ven 12 Août 2005 | ||||
Bouldery start. A bitof fun.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Dim 4 Mai 2003 | ||||
Had done it before (19.0.01)
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Sam 29 Avr 2006 | ||||
Great climb for a wet day.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Dans la moyenne | Sam 29 Avr 2006 | ||||
Steely start then good gear and a head spacey finish.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
Scared the absolute fuck out of me
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Pas la peine | Mar 21 Sept 2004 | ||||
What were they thinking when they bolted this???? Very ordinary climb.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 1 Oct. 2009 | ||||
Hard start, fantastic finish. Needs a rebolt..
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Lun 28 Oct. 2013 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mer 9 Avr 2014 | ||||
Flashy Flash
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 5 Mai 2014 | ||||
On JengA's gear at the top. Balked at the start on the flash attempt (1m off the ground) like a pussy, then cruised it 3 seconds later. Desperately thin footwork at the start (and probably bouldery if you're short) leads to runout trad bliss up the corner and out onto the fake to the anchors. The slightly wet thin holds at the top added a dose of spice. A true old-school classic. The first 2 bolts have now been replaced with rings... Thank god!
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Lun 5 Mai 2014 | ||||
Very good line and I am very glad the the first bolt has been replaced. Its all about trust in your rubber on the start the trust in your hands on the damp holds at the top of the run out.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Dim 6 Juil 2014 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | 2012 | |||||
cant remember if we did this or not, I know we were looking at it...
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Julian Goad | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Ven 11 Mars 2016 | ||||
Clean after a sit getting off the ground.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Ven 4 Oct. 2002 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Gwen Shoemaker | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mar 31 Mai 2016 | ||||
The start requires trust in rubber, the end trust in gear. Quite an intimidating package all in all. Must have climbed up and down almost 5 times before committing to the final moves.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Ro-boat | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Mar 31 Mai 2016 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Ven 15 Juil 2016 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Lun 11 Juil 2016 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Andrew Glover | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Sam 16 Juil 2016 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Chris Fox, Stefan D'Agostino | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Ven 30 Sept 2016 | ||||
Really liked this. Genuine onsight if you count all the times I slid back down to the ground on the first move as not falling ... two hard moves low, then nothing surprising to the top, although the last bit above your gear (a couple of small cams and/or small wires in the last horizontal break) make it exciting.
For reference, I did 3 routes this trip (this (23), Krankendangle (24) and Eye of the Tiger (29)), and the start of this is harder than anything on either of the other two routes. It doesn't make it bad though - better at the start than the last move ! |
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec estherenita | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Sam 22 Oct. 2016 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Lun 7 Nov. 2016 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mar 29 Nov. 2016 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Dim 12 Mars 2017 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Will Monks | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Sam 25 Mars 2017 | ||||
Super cool route
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Riley | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Lun 24 Avr 2017 | ||||
Took a big fall below the anchor on two good cams i placed a few meters below. Went way easier next shot, knowing what the top is like
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Lun 24 Avr 2017 | |||||
Sport Lead
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Lun 26 Juin 2017 | |||||
Fell off the first move, otherwise insight.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec thara | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Sam 9 Sept 2017 | ||||
Took me a couple of tries to do the start.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Mer 13 Sept 2017 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Mer 13 Sept 2017 | |||||
a beautiful line. i seconded Rene, but in (overconfident) hind-site believe i could have got it. Crux is definitely the low boulder problem which is protected by a stick clip. i found the move reaching around onto the face off a finger lock tricky, but thats because i'm a kook with anything crack related.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Sam 7 Oct. 2017 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Ramon Francis | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Ven 14 Avr 2006 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mer 13 Juin 2018 | ||||
Would love to come back and place gear on this.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mer 25 Juil 2018 | ||||
Fell off the first move twice then did it and flashed the rest. Hard start for 23, but then there's a great rest, and the rest is easy for the grade, so sure 23.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Brent, mark, Amanda, Michelle | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Dim 9 Sept 2018 | |||||
Hard start to easy commiting Finish.
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7a 23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Sam 29 Sept 2018 | ||||
My first mixed route, gear pre-placed by Ben (thank you!).
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Oct. 2018 | ||||
Nice warm down route after you do the first moves
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Jason Smith | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Mer 17 Oct. 2018 | |||||
Freaking hard start, to run our coolness!
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Oct. 2018 | ||||
The boulder problem start is not a good warmup, pulled through and clean to the top. Should of stuck with it.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - avec Lucas C, Jason McCarthy | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Oct. 2018 | ||||
Totally rad. Punted the initial boulder which was nails and then came down and went clean to the top. Really fun trad climbing. The first two bolts had draws on them but I placed all the trads.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Oct. 2018 | ||||
Done on pre-placed gear, bouldery start to juggy finale
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | Mar 14 Sept 2021 | |||||
14 | ★★ Ancient Times | 60m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
10 | Cannes | 30m | Victoria Range | Sam 23 Fév 2008 | |||||
1st climb ever!
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23 | ★★ Heaven Seven Eleven | 50m | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Sam 11 Avr 2009 | ||||
Great traverse to arete and up but could not clip bolt or do move to it! Bolt too high for me and probably many others as it's a hard (23-24)committing move above average gear!Wandered over to Finger Sighs clipped that bolt and then went up to top.
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16 | ★★ Whipping Boy | 80m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
19 | FA ★ Trapped in a corner | 45m | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Sam 15 Avr 2006 | ||||
With neets, ground up, nice corner
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13 | Bowled Out | 65m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Twentieth Century Fox | 50m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
14 | ★★ Ancient Times | 60m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Cyclops | 80m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
21 | FA ★ Captain Hook | 30m | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Sam 13 Jan 2007 | ||||
Classic technical scumming
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20 | ★★★ Twentieth Century Fox | 50m | Victoria Range | 2000 | |||||
17 | ★ Fox Trot | 44m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★ Reynard's Last Run | 44m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★ Fox Tail | 30m | Victoria Range | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★ Bliss | 30m | Victoria Range | ★ Bon | Ven 29 Déc 2006 | ||||
OK, poor glue in carrots (perpetrator should feel ashamed)
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13 | FA The Trevor Hendy memorial weetbix route | 20m | Victoria Range | Pourrie | Lun 24 Avr 2006 | ||||
With neets, average climbing on sandy rock, with exploding handholds, and dubious protection in places. Classic
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