Voies dans Central Western Slope and Plains pour la cotation selectionnée

Possibly the hardest multi-pitch in the Bungles. Tackles the major face between 'Crucifixion' and the Tourist Route. This is NOT a sport route - and the rock quality is a bit sub par on pitch 4. Take a double set of cams to fist size, double rack of wires including RPs, at least 15 draws and several long slings. A helmet is also a must.

Starts on right side of east face at section of black steep slabs, aprox 100m left of the rap descent route.

1. 35m (20) Wall (3 FHs) to left facing orange corner with fiddly small gear. At the top of corner step left onto wall (vital small wires) and then up trending slightly right past 2 FHs and several small wires and cams. Belay on ledge at DBB. 5 bolts.

2. 30m (14) Up blocky crackline just to the left of the belay to small ledge belay 3m left of major chossy orange corner (Hex Generation).

3. 25m (22) Straight up tricky wall on trad for 10m to FH, then continue up and right on steep grey wall and arete past a further 4 FHs to final exposed right step across crack into pea-pod belay directly above 'Hex Generation' crackline. 5 bolts.

4. 40m (24) Pumpy technical climbing on the left wall - keeping left of the bolts makes for harder but better climbing. Stay right and experience chossy terror. When the bolts run out follow the corner crack for 25m to comfy big ledge. 6 bolts.

5. 48m (24) Move belay to double bolts at far left end of ledge. Up slab and out left across face with couple of tough moves. Finish up epic wall with a section of micro wires supplementing the bolts. Belay on ledge at double rings. This is the last opportunity to rap off. 9 bolts.

6. 45m (14) Up blocky line above then leftwards up easy angled corner on lovely rock. Belay on trad when you can.

7. 40m (14) Continue up leftwards leaning easy crack line to summit. Traverse ridge and then down the Green 'Gully'.

Climbs up to and across Flight of the Phoenix, joining London's Dockyard to finish.

Takes the striking arete R of Ginsberg and follows it all the way.

Steep and sustained linkup pitch between Icarus and Falling Feathers.

1-2: As for Icarus.

3: 35 m Traverse R from Icarus corner to weakness. Up and slightly R to base of overhanging groove. Groove, then L at top. Up, then R to crack in slab. Crack and wall to base of Icarus buttress and Falling Feathers.

Sit start up nice pinches on arete to easy ish top on Star Gazers face

Sit start arete on two obvious flat jugs. Up through side-pulls and crimps to easy topot. Fun and powerful with minimal choss

Star up Razel Razel and continue 360deg around boulder via Stile on Kevin Bacon side of bloc.

Start up Razel Razel continuing around bloc 360deg short detour on Smokestack via Reverse Crumper then Stile back on KB side of boulder.

Takes the crux and exit of Razoback starting from stand/crouch inside the pod both hands beneath the central ridge/spine,somewhat technical and thuggish.

Climb as for Style completing a lap of Crepe whilst over on Smokestack (bridge back via either Crumper).

Start as for Lamington finish as for Blockbuster.

Climb as for Nevada finishing via CEL.

Climb as for Smokified! finishing via CEL.

Climbs as for Nevada adding a lap out and back on Crumpet of the South 1 before summiting.

Climbs as for Nevada with a lap out and back on Crumpet of the South 2 before summiting.

Climb as for Smokified! adding the lap of Crumpet of the South 1 before summiting.

Climb as for Smokified! adding the lap out and back on Crumpet of the South 2 before summiting.

Sit start to Dead' Arete from low rail/crimp centre of Dead Edges wall.

Start as for Mohs but exiting halfway at the triangle jug to easy topout

Sit start to the right of Spherulite Sit and up cool slopers with a cool foot cam

Sit start to the left of Bootylicious, climbing into the same exit

Sit start on two sidepulls and move up through slopey pinches and slopers to top out straight up.

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Stand start on jug and undercling and up big move on decent holds to a struggle in the offwidth crack to mantle. Feels desperate

Crouch start on crimps up face

Crouch/stand start with both hands on pale patch. Establish on poor feet and move up right to rail. Finish with interesting mantle. Be careful not to fall into the hollow stump. Edge is OUT for hands and feet.

Start as for Kinematics but exiting just before the top to the slab on the left

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Start as for Meteorite but dyno from the left hand crimp to the top, eliminating the right hand sloper jug

Start as for The Index, traverse into start of Gneiss Arete with some cool moves to top out as for that problem

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Left hand undercling right hand crimp crouch start. Up to bad crimp and jump to lip. Hard to grade

Sit start on crimps and up nice incut crimps to hard mantle. Classic

Stand start in trench and climb up big moves on good crimps.

A-void (haha) falling through the hole on the other side, it leads to a cliff