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Up prow

Django extension to the top of the cliff on perfect orange stone. Straight up from the anchors on D, then move leftwards around the blunt arete to anchors under the roof.

One of the best routes here. Starts on the third large rock cairn. The usual bouldery start then easier ground to white rooflet. Tricky over this then beautiful waves of orange to low set of anchors. Mantle above optional!

Rad moves on slick white stone to the crux which is guarded by a bulge where the orange rock starts.

Fix a 60m rope, Rap from a tree at the top with the rock cain onto the balcony halfway down the wall. Make sure you keep kicking off the wall and clip a few draws to make it on the ledge. Tricky slab start then traverse left to steep jugs leading up to the fridge hugging crux. Awesome steep top corner finishes this route off with style.

Short, bolted boulder problem but the hold at the bottom and the cool rock made it impossible not to. Swing energetically from the pocket up to the white gold. Will it go through the roof, big guns?

Start on the cool ladder (unless you are right hard) Up the crack system to the face above. Reachy last move.

A pleasant climb of sensible length, which features perfect belay stances and a spectacular second pitch. Start 5m right of the whitish R-facing corner of Green Peace. Take a single set of wires, a set of cams to #3 camalot, and maybe extra finger-hand cams. The crux pitch is fond of yellow aliens. Millions of threads, so sling up like there's no tomorrow. Two ropes needed to rap off.

1. 30m (19) Boulder onto the bobbly lump and up past a bolt to leftwards diagonal seam. At the overlap/break at about 15m, ignore your instincts and step rightwards to find a hidden gear slot. Easier climbing past a second bolt (wander around for gear) leads to the belay hole with a single tree poking out. Excellent threads can be found deep in the back of the bunghole.

2. 25m (23) One of the best pitches at Bungonia. Glorious steep jugs and good gear interrupted by a bolted bouldery crux. There's a gear slot between the bolts which is handy for dogging (twist a #6 wallnut or something similar in there). Very comfortable belay hole.

3. 30m (19) Left out of the hole and ramble up the easy slab (beware of loose crap off to the sides). Follow the threads up steepening wall to bolted bouldering. After the last bolt, climb up and right to find hidden gear in a big pocket, then step right to the bolted belay in a bunghole (shared with The Bachelor).

4. 45m (15) Shared with The Bachelor. Step left off the belay, then wander up the pleasant easy slab passing about three bolts and bunch of gear slots.

Three abseils to the ground (45m, 25m, 50m).

Takes a line left of Strangeness and Charm all the way.

1. 45m (24) Climb easily to a bulge and then move through it with caution to a bolt, then onwards to another bolt on top of a flake. Step down and teeter leftwards for several metres (24) to reach flake on left. Move leftwards into a groove and continue up past another bolt with some interesting moves on flakes to gain the bolt belay on right.

2. 45m (21) Up more easily to the top of the flake and traverse horizontally right for 3m. Keep moving up trending right past a few flakes to the 3rd belay on Strangeness.

3. 45m (22) Traverse back leftwards and upwards to a prominent spike and climb its left side on the steepening rock above. Place a good wire at the bulge and make a hard couple of moves to reach the 4th belay on Strangeness.

The left hand line through the overlap. Excellent. More committing than Wailing Cockatoo. 6 FHs in total. Rebolted 2012.

Excellent.

1. 20m (22) Thin wall climbing (4 bolts) leads to a cute belay in a scoop.

2. 25m (24) Leftwards up the slab to a bolt. Straight up to cross the 'Strangeness and Charm' traverse to a steep headwall. Straight up this past 2 more bolts to a belay chain.

3. 40m (23) Some delicate slabbing left from the belay leads to a bolt. Clip this and continue up past 3 more bolts and eventually stepping left to the 3rd belay on Strangeness.

Climbed onsight ground up with no pre-inspection. Thus it is scary, sustained and badly bolted. Admirable none the less.

1. 45m (22) Start directly below a niche and move out left and up the steep rock on good positive holds to reach the left end of a small ledge. Place a #3 friend in a hole, traverse right and up a small corner to reach the 1st belay of 'Strangeness and Charm'.

2. 20m (24) Straight up to a good wire placement in the overlap, move left and upwards to gain the prominent small corner. Continue up past a hard move to gain the hanging belay at a short crack.

3. 45m (24) A long pitch on natural gear. Climb the left side of the flake before traversing right to gain a series of pockets which lead to a solitary bolt up high. Hard moves past this to a bolt belay above.

4. 40m (22) Continue straight up past a few fixed wires to join 'Galactic Wanderer'.

Connects 'Jewel Box' to 'Coal Sack'.

1. 42m (23) Up 'Jewel Box' to hanging belay in large scoop just below the cave.

2. 50m (22) Traverse leftwards until the holds runout and you are forced to do a tension traverse to gain more holds and join the 3rd pitch of 'Coal Sack'.

3. 40m (21) (21M1) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 4.

4. 35m (21) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 5.

Sustained and strenuous, a classic. Protection is hard to place on the first pitch, and friends have been known to pull out of glassy placements. Fantini himself now says he would not lead pitch 1 again due to the extreme danger of the first 18m. Take it easy.

1. 50m (23) Start on the left edge of the cave. An unprotected start leads to a #3 friend at 9m. Move left around bulge to a steep wall with a fixed sling. Thin moves up this to a ledge (crux) and a no hands rest. Teeter left to surmount the block and then up to a small cave. More sustained but well protected climbing brings you to the belay cave.

2. 50m (23) Lean back and place a wire just above the cave. Step down and traverse leftwards for a few moves and then follow a line of holds to the roof. There is a 2/2.5 friend up high and to the left as well as a fixed pin. Head right through the roof to a rest. Easier climbing leads to a stance at 50m with two bolts.

3. 50m (21) Take the rising groove to the left and continue up leftwards in a rising arc to a block in the overlap. Pull the overlap and continue up a few metres before traversing left to the groove. Up the groove (wires) until it is possible to traverse out left to a bolt rap station.

The left line. Sustained blocky edges and sidepulls with a rooflet in the middle. A bit dirty but good climbing. Needs more traffic!

The right line. 11 bolts.

This route is the furthest downstream, about 2m left of the Pulsar corner.

1. 25m (24) A wide bridge across to a bolt (hanger and nut missing - 2014). Sustained climbing past 5 more FHs. Chain belay.

2. 25m (21) A fun pitch with good pro. Up the crack then left to a bolt, traverse left and up a slippery wall to a ledge. Rap off tree.

Awesome, can be combined with Screaming Tribesmen to make a sustained route to the top. Starts towards the left-hand end of a left-leaning ramp.

1. 25m (19) Up through the overlap past 2 bolts to the tree and belay.

2. 30m (22) Through the overhang on bolts and then on wires and bolts.

3. 15m (23) Up the corner, then move left to the tree belay.

4. 45m (23) Desperate moves through the bulge then up the slab. Either go right to the belay on 'Iron Curtain', or continue up through the stalactites to the belay at the base of the orange headwall.

A spectacular pitch tackling a very steep line through the Screaming Tribesmen orange cave. A variant on the best pitch of 'Screaming Tribesman' but even more awesome and harder.

Start: Start at a bomber gear belay just down and right of the DBB atop the 5th pitch of Iron Curtain/ Nitro Express/ 'Screaming Tribesman'.

Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of cams (0.3 to 2), a set of wires and about 16 quickdraws (with plenty of long draws).

Start: Start in the rainforest 15m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. From the riverbed scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts underneath the bush canopy, under a water-run/chimney/hole thing. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, it's not a taste of what's to come.

1. 15m (15) All trad. Move up a few moves under the hole thing, then step left onto a leftward sloping ramp, and trend up L for 5m. Pull over the bulge then traverse 5m back right to DBB on small grassy ledge.

2. 30m (22) FH, over bulge onto small ledge (trad) and move R. Trickily up past 2 FHs to a fixed thread at 12m (new as of 2012). Up the slab past #2 cam and 2FHs, then trend easily L to DFH on comfy grassy ledge.

3. 35m (21) Step R then up face and crack (2 FHs, trad, FH) to join a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this 15m up and right until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, traverse right to the diagonal overlap, then step back left to a hidden jug (0.5/0.75 cam) and tricky mantle, up to a small ledge with DFH.

4. 25m (23) The first of 3 amazing pitches. Up the corner to great cams, now diagonally right across the steep face past 11 bolts and a zillion diagonal pockets, then span right to a short blocky corner with a DBB on top.

5. 30m (22) Follow the bolts delicately up the groove and straight over a high bulge, to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave (lunch time!). 10 FHs, then a #2 cam, then a chain belay. A ripsnorter.

6. 25m (24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left arete of the cave, then angle back right and up on big pumpy holes on fantastic orange rock (the line of rustier bolts heading up then R through steep ground is Pump Lust). Mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2/3 cam near the top. TBB.

7. 55m (23 M1/25) Up and left past three bolts to a ledge, pulling on a couple to reach a jug. The bolts above and right are for various good but harder alternate finishes. Instead trend up and left, around the arête to join a bridging corner for 10m, then a dirt/scree scramble for about 15-20m. Keep going until you find a gumtree to belay off (55m), the casuarinas are unreliable.

A harder exit to Evolution, without the bushwhacking. Start with the bolt ladder on the last pitch of Evolution (aid 3 bolts or free at grade 24), then head diagonally right past a bolt into a scoopy recess. From the top of the recess exit left through the overhang, then straight up to pull over onto a slab. Continue straight up and then left to join 'Pumpmaster'. A couple of long draws on the bolts in the recess help reduce rope drag.

An alternative way to get to the top of the spike and the first belay of Siblings of the Sun. Great climbing and eases off a lot after the first bolt. The route takes the sharp bolted arête 5m left of the corner crack of Siblings pitch 1, starting on its right side then switching to the left.

(24/25) From the 1st belay at the top of the spike. Instead of heading up and right across the slabs, head straight right following the bolts through the overhang. Continue right on natural gear to the belay.

Steep jamming up the exposed furrows above Albino pitch 6. Start at the DBB 5m left of the belay at the bottom of Albino pitch 7 and White Noise. Follow the line into the cave, latch onto the holds above the lip then join White Noise at the end of its traverse.

A classy alternative to the last pitch of Albino. Clip the bolt directly above the belay at the top of Albino pitch 6, ooze up the gash then follow the technical and airy line to the top. Hand to fist sized cams in the crack then all bolts to a DBB. Exit by traversing right to the DBB at the top of Albino pitch 7.

An exhilarating and technical adventure. Once the easiest way to the top (!) but tougher and more serious than some of its neighbours (e.g. Evolution). Cleaned and rebolted in 2020, each pitch ends at double rings. New hardware generously donated by climbinganchors.com.

Take a set of wires, a set of cams (#0.3 to 3), slings and at least 14 draws. A second #3 cam is nice to have but not essential for the first pitch of Siblings Of The Sun and for finishing up White Noise (highly recommended). DOUBLE ROPES are essential due to zig-zagging long pitches.

1. 35m (22) Same as Siblings pitch 1.

2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings pitch 2.

3. 45m (20) Another traverse. Head directly right from the DBB. Crash through the trees and charge hard right along the vegetated ledge to its very end, ignoring the old bolted lines going up. Clip the bolt that's tucked away on the right-hand side of a small prow then follow the delightful line of pockets and jugs past 2 more bolts and gear.

4. 20m (22) Upward progress at last. Pull a hard move off the belay (think tall thoughts) then follow the line through the bulge on immaculate grey rock. Bolts and gear.

5. 30m (23) An engaging and high-quality pitch that crosses a band of slightly poorer rock. Take care. Bolts plus a couple of optional finger-sized cams in the first 10m.

6. 50m (24) The mega pitch with a bit of everything! Weave your way up the slab to the giant semi-detached flake. DO NOT place gear behind it. Follow the flake to the left-facing corner. Easily up this until you can traverse back left to the line of 4 bolts (the DBB directly above these bolts is for White Noise Direct). Up past these then right along the sloping ledge (careful of loose rock) to the commanding belay. Bolts and gear.

7. 45m (22) A respectable pitch. Trend right up the steep wall with 3 bolts then head back left up the vegetated line past another bolt to the top. Bolts and gear.

1. 30m (24) Same as 'Nosferatu' pitch 1.

2. 50m (22) Up and left past the bolts to a ledge. Up a flake crack for a few moves before trending slightly right up a slab. Follow the bolts over some bulges (crux) with friends also handy in the pockets. Belay at the chains in the orange cave at the base of the steep wall.

3. 40m (24) Follow the bolts past some great holes, kneebars and no hands rests. A really good pitch. Belay at the chains.

Just left of the corner. Water washed rock for a few bolts then left and up to anchors. Has been rebolted - new shiny FHs. Some are already loose and required finger tightening (2016, still true in 2019).

Right line of bolts off the ledge above Wicket. Flowstone corner and face to luscious ceiling and punchy pocketed finish. There is a single rap ring under the roof to aid cleaning the route.

Amazing limestone features. Left line off the ledge climbing the flowstone corner (take care with the stalactite) then climb left onto the prow on mega buckets and then up the steep headwall with spicey finish. Neil managed to drop a large rock on himself whilst bolting this - lucky it hit his body not his head.

Start: Start from the left end of Big Greenie. Takes the corner and arête.

1. 20m (21) From a stance on a slab cruise up the ramp to a bolt. Some slippery moves past this then up to another bolt. Up to the block and ledge with chains at the base of a corner.

2. 20m (24 M1) (24M1) Up the corner past a couple of bolts to some thin bridging (crux) and wires. Continue up the steepening corner past bolts to an overhang. Pull around this on finger pockets to a double bolt belay.

3. 25m (23 M1) (23M1) Up the sharp arête past bolts to a rest. Clip a bolt and then move up (crux) and right to easier climbing. Chain belay. Rap down.

A good face climb on bolts.

One for the chossophiles. A new route up a hitherto unclimbed wall. Worthwhile except for the terrible second; "Demon Baby" pitch, which will have you questioning every hold, and your love of climbing. Is the rest of it worth it?

To start walk right of Little Thailand wall 50m to find a 10m ramp cutting left across the lower cliff band. All bolts except first pitch.

1. 40m, (5) Easily up ramp (no bolts, can sling trees) then up the talus to a black corner on right. Take a moment to appreciate the immense wall of choss on the left.

2. 35m (23) Up left leaning ramp, the middle 10m is on particularly bad rock, but the cruxes are at the start and end and there are lots of bolts. Semi Hanging Belay.

3. 30m (21) Up, then diagonally left under steep wall to hanging belay

4. 30m (23) Up steep tufas then right and up to belay.

5. 45m (18) Up corner for 30m then ramble to the top to belay off trees.

To walk back to the red track (20 minutes), sidle left, down talus chute 50m then continue sidling left below cliffs, down and across a swampy creek, and onto the track.

Up the face then continue right to the base of the arête. Up the arête to double rings. About 6 bolts.

Start: Starts from the top of the gully. Double rings at base.

Start as for 'Siren', but up the left-hand line. Ring bolts & FHs to the same DRB as 'Siren'.

Description from ROCK Mag #18. Route has not been found yet and may just be lost in time. 2018 About 50m L of Cardinal View Lookout Up slab to small tree, then follow line of six BRs up steep wall.

Revamped as a sporty on brackets

Step off the flake/ledge into a diagonal line leading to the left (nuts and wires). At the top of this power up through steep stuff past a bolt to the top.

Stand start off the block with 2 left facing crimps. Balancy and a weird drive-by to an easy top out.

Sit start and up.

Stand start matching triangular hold. Paste feet on and up.

Sit start on the two obvious holds on the right. Up and left to top out.

Start about a meter to the right of "Tiger Cheese V8" on a large undercling jug. Bust out right to the lip and mantel over to top out.

Sit start and up the face on good holds.

Sit start traverse right all the way to top out.

Sit start and straight out the steep nose to top out.

Sit start on underclings and head straight out the steep little prow to top out.

Stand start and traverse the slab left to finish up 'Turkish'.

Stand start as for Fight You For It with left hand on undercling, then traverse right to the jug.

Stand start and out the arete to top out.

Stand start and up the middle of the wall.

Stand start and up the corner block.

Sit start and straight up the face.

Stand start and up the right side of the scoop.

Sit start and straight up to top out.

Sit start and out the blocky roof to top out slightly to the right.

Sit start far left and traverse right to mantle the nose of the roof.

Stand start and out traverse out the left arete.

Stand start and up the arete over bad landing.

Sit start and out cave to top out up sharp prow.

Stand start on sidepulls. Head straight up to top out. Block to the left is out.

Desperate dirty and disgusting, Wall and roof directly beneath The Gym. 4 bolts.

Sustained, the classic of the wall. 5 rings and a #2 Friend.

Short and steep wall around the corner from SK

Up wall to stance under roof. Through roof and past the cave tending right then finishing left

wall and roof, several bolts and a fixed sling(!)

Thin slab to a classic arete

right of PBC, into the right side of the dish and up

Left end of the wall facing the road. Start at the series of shallow huecos

Up dark, overhung black wall with pockets to slopers.

Arete to DRBB

Even steeper wall with even more unusual finish. 4 bolts to chain anchor.

sit start on rock. traverse the full cave then top out. requires a mat and spotters to protect a pointy rock,.

a classic problem. sit start at right end of shelf. traverse left and up then follow right crack to match under vegetation

Sit start on jugs and out the roof and around the bulge.

Sit start and up the arete to top out right.

Stand start with hands in both underclings, move up into side pulls then jugs to top

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and straight up. Very highball.

Sit start and straight up to top through the gap.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up the blunt arete.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start at back of cave and out roof to top out.

Traverse Right to left on slopers and crimps. Start matching obvious cleaned sloper on right edge of boulder, finish on lip of Black pearl. Very gritstonesque.

Potential for an extension start and topout finish but first ascensionist left the country before completing the mega traverse of the whole boulder.

Sit start and straight up arete.

Sit start on flat side pull and brushed crimp left Yoga Vibrations Traverse to obvious pocket and finish up crimps right of Yoga Vibrations.

Move through big pockets in cave and up to crimps to finish matched on crimp

For when you don't feel like finishing a nice juggy route on crimps. As for 'COD', but keep on paddling upward through the rough stuff then move out right to the big scoop and massive jug finish. Watch out for crumbly rock as this area is still 'raw' and uncleaned. Also watch the fall spotting with the trees below!

The first route you come to after walking down the descent gully. Way out there moves above the bolts. Take a big pair of knackers with you on this fun jaunt.

The wall R of Buttocks

The extension to 'Caffeine'. Goes to top of cliff.

The direct finish 2 smiley face, continue up the rounded arete.

2m Left of MP. Easy start then move through bulge to pocket. Head slightly left and up nice featured wall to anchors. Hard !

Start: under the 'column' of rock below bulge. Up column to break then through break past thin moves and some problem solving to jugs. Tend right on slopes and pockets to anchors.

Climb EA and punch out the corner of the roof. Up thin head wall to big fat U lower off.