Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Stonehenge Western Cluster Central Trackside Boulder | |||||
V3/4 | ★★★ Cola!
Start hands matched in the middle of the central block, traverse left into and up the crack/slab to finish via Slurpee! | 8m | |||
V4/5 | ★★★ On the South-West
Start up CT Slab & Crack, trend left into Cola! RHV reversing it into and finishing up Cola! Multiple sections of serious landing, good rest before the highball/solo finish, absolute cracker. | 13m | |||
Stonehenge Western Cluster Silly Goat | |||||
V4 | ★★ What a Silly Goat
Starts at the far left of the undercling. Use small edges and smear points to Traverse over the face. Finishes around the corner where the slab can be stood on. Optionally complete the full circuit around the boulder. ~V0 for this part. Aggressive shoes will help. Consider filing toenails more than usual as most footholds only allow for toe tips. FA: Jared C, 26 Août 2019 | 6m | |||
Stonehenge South East Cluster Split in Half Boulder | |||||
V2 - 4 | S10.1
Climb the left arete. | 4m | |||
Stonehenge South East Cluster Salisbury Common | |||||
V4 | S7
Highball | ||||
Stonehenge Central boulders Salisbury Hot! Boulders | |||||
V3/4 | ★ CSH!B Hot Lap
Climbs the crux of Long Lap R-L-R. Count to 10 when you get to the good rest then start making your way back. Dabbing will not be tolerated, if you dab even the slightest touch you must start again for the tick. | 7m | |||
V4 | ★ CSH!B Hot Lap-2
Climbs the crux of Long Lap L-R-L. Count to 10 when you get to the good rest then start making your way back. Strictly no dabbing. | 7m | |||
V4 | ★★ CSH!B Hot Lap-3+
Climbs the crux of Long Lap R-L-R-L with a count of 10 between each lap at the good rests, strictly no dabbing. Really nice sequence taken together, great technical strength endurance training. If you feel you haven't earnt a solid V4 badge here just add 2 laps at a time until you do. | 11m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster Cliffhanger boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Cliffhanger
Side pulls and compression moves. Fun and easier than it looks | 5m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster The Wave Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ NE14 The Wave
Jump to crimps, traverse right and then mantle | 3m | |||
Dangars Gorge The Dragons Belly | |||||
23 | ★★★ Hungry Catfish, Frothing Dragon Traverse
Swim Start from the R of the bottom of the waterfall. Easy RH traverse around into the Slimy Eel & The Cesspool of Doom Cave. Traverse through a series of laybacks just above the water height. Finish on obvious no-hands-rest block. Scope for extension. Équip.: Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy & Dr. Phil FA: Ben Vincent, 28 Déc 2016 | 1m | |||
23 | Stomach Acid
Climb starts 3 m right of White Lightening up obvious jugs to tricky blank section then up to crack. FA: Ben Vincent, 27 Mars 2015 | 10m | |||
23 | ★★ Middle Earth Traverse
Starts from the block end of Thor's Traverse. Traverse down & L along sloping rail and mantle the Dyno Project finish. Traverse L along the large rocky bridge section until it ends. Some committing moves at this level above the large sloping slab bring you to a further rest and the traverse ends at the small shrub. Plenty of scope for extension! FA: Ben Vincent, 14 Nov. 2015 | 50m | |||
24 | ★★ 'Dis'-Location
Swim Start, up and out of the water at the base of the white streak, directly below the little rooflet. Up white streak to rooflet and traverse L and trend up and L to finish at Middle Earth Traverse FA: Ben Vincent, 30 Jan 2016 | 5m | |||
23 | ★★★ Middle Earth Traverse Extension
Continuing on from the hands free stance at the end of M.E.T (at the small bottlebrush shrub). Keep traversing L at the same height as M.E.T until you reach the blocky blank rooflet section with the precariously placed flake of death (you'll know it when you come to it). Move delicately L and through. Current extension finishes 3m beyond this rooflet in an obvious large pocket (a few meters below and about half-way through the fig thicket above). FA: Ben Vincent, 30 Jan 2016 | 30m | |||
Dangars Gorge The Beach | |||||
24 | ★★ To Infinity and Beyond
From the end of T.S.T. traverse up R. FA: Ben Vincent, 25 Fév 2017 | 10m | |||
Dangars Gorge Richard Cliff | |||||
23 | Lackluster Backbuster
Start: The direct line up from where Airs And Graces begins. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are great climbing. Pitch 4 is the price you have to pay.
FA: P.Bayne & A.Stephens (alt. leads), 1982 | 60m, 4 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Moonscape area | |||||
V4 | ★★ Sloper rail
Sit start left hand on the sidepull, traverse onto rail and up | 1m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Gushing over
3 stars of fun absurdity. This needs logs to build up a pad platform. Up the same arete as Gravity Well but head left through the blunt saddle with a finish you will gush over. FA: Benji Dutaillis, 3 Mai 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ 25% crack
Up the crack then delicately step past the slab to the right high side pull. Easier with long span. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Bucking Brumby Arête
Start as for LD. Up arête using R seam, L high crimp & not much else. Dangerous landing. | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Scultpure garden | |||||
V4 | ★★ OUAS Direct
As for OUAS but bridge high in roof and top out above. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 20 Nov. 2017 | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Riverside Boulder | |||||
V4 | Nose tranverse
Traverse around the blunt nose | 7m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Hydrological drought area | |||||
V4 | ★ Benji's wall
Sequency start up then finish up right FA: Benji Dutaillis, 28 Juin 2020 | 4m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders The holy land | |||||
V4 | ★★ Bell tower
Very delicate moves up the right face and the arete FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Nov. 2019 | 4m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Tradies area | |||||
V4 | ★★ Compression cycle
Very delicate and balancy one move problem. FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 Mai 2017 | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||
V4 | ★★ Red licorice
Stand start left on the pinch, right on tiny crimp, then up onto the right trending rail. FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Oct. 2021 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ A cult following
Join our select group! Drink the Kool-Aid! Start on the rail but avoid the flat top out and stretch way out left to the side pull, right heel hook, then match and work your way left up along the lower rail. FA: Ben Vincent, 16 Jan 2016 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Right side of history
Up face and right arete | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Tumble Jumble
Jam in back, roof moves out right side avoiding left side | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Above the private sector | |||||
V4 | ★★ Tufa fatu
A punchy number on a tufa like feature. Over some shallow water so needs some rocks or logs under the pads. FA: Brendan Heywood, 31 Oct. 2018 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Dracula's scapula
| 6m | |||
24 | ★★★ The Elver Escape
Balancy slab problem. Spend an age eyeing up potential holds from beside the climb before being peer pressured into actually getting on it. Tiny crimpers get you established and some little gem crimper slots get you the escape. Mint. FA: Ben Vincent, 31 Mai 2020 | 5m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Vulcanology area | |||||
V4 | ★★ Avoid the Ivermectin
A thin direct line straight up from the undercling FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sept 2021 | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Mozzie Rock | |||||
V4 | ★★ Mozzie Rock
Sit start on obvious jug on west side of boulder. Head up then right to right facing rail and up to crimp slope top-out. | 4m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Glue and Nails Boulder | |||||
V4 | nails and glue #1
Up left on thin glued holds | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★ M7
Sit start on feature, then up rail to huge edge to mantel on crimp. | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders 40 Degree Wall | |||||
V4 | ★★★ The Face
In the centre of the face are some large high holds, start on these. | 4m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Hierarchy of Kneeds Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Esteem kneeds
Same start as Safety & Belonging, but then head up the outside to the rail and then dyno to top FA: Brendan Heywood, 15 Avr 2022 | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Tank Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Hard arete
Arete to left of crack | 5m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Quickdraw Area Self Isolation Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ When in Rona, Do as the Ronans Do
Sit start on obvious sloper/jug feature in break. Punch high to crimpers and mantle. Boulder to the R is out and should only be used to support your chalk bag/gear and sending sweeties. FA: Ben Vincent, 24 Avr 2020 | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Quickdraw Area | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Quickdraw roof
Start low on left, heel hook your way up and right under roof, the up and mantle. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Quickdraw Low Traverse
As for the regular traverse, but instead of going to high slopes above start holds, go further left onto small crimps, then drop down onto good edge further left and stay a bit lower than the regular traverse. Note: noticed on 10-Nov-2010 that one of the small crimps has broken off, so it could be a lot harder now (Ben V*t to blame?) | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Powers Lab | |||||
V4 | ★ Powers Cream
One move, start left pinch on the arete, right hand on the sloper, then pull on and up. A line link from the lower rail through this is the obvious mega project. FA: Brendan Heywood & Benji Dutaillis, 27 Juin 2021 | 1m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Southern Boulders Red Lichen Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★ Hitchhiker
Stand start R of R7. Essentially up the arete using all the little features & steering clear of all the large features. | ||||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Southern Boulders Mad World Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Ocun's Last Stand
Sit start at base of crack. Up through solid hand jammies until they become loose fists beyond the buldge. 100% crack baby. FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Juin 2020 | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Southern Boulders Three Star Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Rock-hugger
Same start holds as 'Dyno'. Following actual dyno, head left along the horizontal crack until you meet the 'crack' climb from which you top-out. FFA: Ben Vincent, 2012 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Dyno extension
An alternate crack top-out to the existing sloper finish FFA: Ben Vincent, 2012 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Dyno
Start on small edges, dyno to large edge/ledge | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Southern Boulders Australia Boulder | |||||
V4 | S2
Desperate crimps up face, hold broke off as well, grade is a guess. | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Eastern Boulders Catacombs | |||||
V4 | The Cube
The cube like boulder downhill and east of the Catacomb roof has a crimpy problem starting on the right arete, going across face to the left and up. Guessing at the grade, could be harder. | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge North rim boulders Perfect cleavage area | |||||
V4 | ★★ Christmas Custard
Sit start low on the right, left up through the bulge and then delicately up to the glory jug top out. FA: Benji Dutaillis, 31 Déc 2020 | 5m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Northeast Boulders Northeast Group That Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Unknown as well
Sit start at tiny dihedral to the left of detached block at base of boulder, layback and throw up to sloper then latch huge edge, mantel onto it and slab to top. | 4m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Fermé Ring pull boulder | |||||
24 | Unknown 1
| 6, 4 | |||
24 | Unknown 9
| 3 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Private sector | |||||
23 | ★ Trajectory Direct
The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line. Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D. Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda. FA: Gordon Low, 1997 Entr.: 3 Mars 2023 | 10m, 3 | |||
24 | ★ Yoda
Start: Right of Trajectory, three bolts up overhang on jugs to top. Double-bolt belay back up in corner. FA: Al Stephens, 1994 | 10m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Crawling King Snake Blues
Start 2m right of HPS following three FH trending right to anchors over lip. FA: Ben Christian, 1994 Entr.: 7 Fév 2023 | 12m, 3 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas The Schoolgirl Boulder | |||||
23 | ★ Shane's Wall
Originally a project but unknowingly stolen by an unknown, nefarious Brisbanite. Start: The left wall of the dihedral Directly up the wall past three bolts. FA: Some Bloke, 1997 | 8m, 3 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Psychosomatic Wall | |||||
23 | Tongue Tied & Twisted
Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!) Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top. FA: Al Stephens, 1993 | 15m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Psychosomatic
The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains. FA: Mark Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1981 | 15m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Tactical vomit
A hidden cave problem on excellent rock. A long traverse which starts easy and progressively ramps up to the crux where you turn vertically and exit out the chimney without touching the block behind you. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 26 Août 2023 | 7m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Shooting Star Block | |||||
24 - 27 | ★★★ Summer waterfall project
Water level needs to be fairly low. Fantastic juggy start then progressively harder through the face, a big dyno, then probably head left up the arete. | 9m | |||
24 | ★★★ Sweet Surrender
Right trending seam right of Shooting Star. Along overhang past 3 bolts, then up past a 4th bolt over lip to top. DBB directly after lip. Bring small wires to redirect the belay. FA: Gordon Low, 1995 Entr.: 2 Mars 2023 | 12m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★★ Trapeze
Start as for Sweet Surrender. but once you’ve clipped the fourth bolt step back down and continue traversing right to the big jug and another bolt (ignore the extra bolt in between - it’s for another route and is a real bastard to clip. From the jug haul onto the slab and up the seam (wire placement) and onto the S.S. belay bolts. FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1995 Entr.: 2 Mars 2023 | 15m, 5 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Powers creek junction The Barnaby wall | |||||
V4 | ★★ Selling Us Out
A great traverse through slopers with a power finish FA: Alan Ezzy, 26 Juin 2016 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Better roads
A more pure extension finish to the traverse up the diagonal crack FA: carol lee, 26 Juin 2016 | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Powers creek junction Humpty Dumpty area | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Not here to fuck spiders
Up the great layback features then slightly left with a delicate spicy highball finish FA: Ben Vincent & Benji Dutaillis, 18 Sept 2020 | 6m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Powers creek junction Max friction boulders | |||||
V4 | ★★ Max friction
From sit down side pull, traverse right all the way to big jug FA: Alan Ezzy, 26 Juin 2016 | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Tarmac
Cruxy start through the rooflet onto the slab then straight up FA: Alec Eastwood, 10 Avr 2023 | 10m, 3 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Big boulder bend Jawa sandcrawler | |||||
V4 | ★★ Tusken raider
Sit start on crimp, campus to jug, then traverse left and up FA: Brendan Heywood, 17 Avr 2016 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Sisqo (Flip Flop)
Only possible at low water levels. Technical layback then up rail FA: Ben Vincent, 1 Sept 2019 | 5m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Big boulder bend The big boulders | |||||
V4 | ★★ Ashley Madison crack
A couple layback moves, then reachy left span move and link into the left crack FA: carol lee, 21 Mai 2016 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Tonight I dine on turtle soup
Start on rail, delicately step on and hock up and mantle. A sit start from the lower left rail seems possible FA: Brendan Heywood, 17 Avr 2016 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ A flash of commitment
Stand start reach into the glory hold on Jugtastic then traverse on hard slopers left to a big jug then up. A full link up of all 3 lines would make a proper epic king line. FA: Volodymyr K, 7 Mai 2022 | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | |||||
24 | ★★ Heaving Falcons
Either climb 'Pockets Full of Emptiness' or do a roped easy traverse onto the ledge. Can also be accessed via the 'Cloud Grazer' abseil. Up a flared off-width with two carrots, ignore the choss deep in the crack. Gain a semi decent rest at the roof, then bust right for 4m before heading directly through the burly roof crack, round the lip and on and upwards through more off-width to finish. FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 21 Juil 2018 FFA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 1 Août 2018 | 15m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★★ Arrested Development
Thin climbing in an amazing position. Rap in to hanging DBB. Climb up the project for 2 bolts and then left to the arete. FA: Alan Ezzy, 14 Août 2016 | 10m, 5 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas Sticky Fingers | |||||
24 | Sticky Fingers
Start: The obvious thin crack in the middle of the face. Up the tapering crack with a cruxy move out right and on to the top. FA: D. Oddie, 1998 | 10m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Kitchen | |||||
23 | ★★★ Lean Cuisine
Start: The line up the face left of Get Nuked. Two bolts protect the upper half. Up the face (Friends in breaks) to the bolt and interesting crux, past second bolt and up to top. FA: Gordon Low & Matt Rizzuto, 1998 | 7m, 2 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | |||||
23 | ★★★ Deep Thought
Start: The scalloped wall 8m left of “The Jaws of Life”. Use short shallow corner to get established on the wall. Up past three bolts to friends in horizontal break, then two more bolts to bolt belay on ledge and a chain just above your head, around the roof. FA: Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1992 | 25m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★★ Green Jam
10m right of CDS, hand/fist size crack with a deceptively steep and pumpy boulder finish to DBB FA: Evan Patrick & Michael Moore, 11 Juin 2022 | 13m | |||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé
Start just left of GJ, mainly using the big crack until traversing left to mantle the ledge. Some delicate moves gain a good stance before the crux, fire out a very thin crux then head slightly left over the lip to DBB. FFA: Michael Moore, 28 Avr 2023 | 20m, 12 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas Bomb Town | |||||
24 | ★★★ Carp carp to Blimp town
Start as for Bomb Town and then directly up the face FA: Ben Vincent, 25 Sept 2020 | 12m | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Persian Carpets The Carpet | |||||
24 | ★★★ Carrot Power
Start: about 3m right of ‘The Last Laugh’ on block. Step off the block and up right, then back left to first bolt. Up through overlap and second bolt, then trend right past 2 more bolts then up and back left to ledge. Scramble left along ledge to chains atop of ‘The Last Laugh’. FA: Russell (Chunder) Chudliegh, Tim (Tadpole) Ball & John Lattanzio, 1985 | 35m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Lust Bucket
Start: 2m right of ‘Moral Decline’. Up past 3 bolts to hanging block, move left to belay. FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1985 | 25m, 3 | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge The Pagoda & Split Rock | |||||
23 | ★★ Gutterchild
Originally done with an aid rest at 23M0 but this was eliminated a week or two later by Lattanzio. Start: 4m right of 'Payolla' Up thin crack, traverse left to join base of a second crack. Climb this to the top FA: John Lattanzio & E. Sharp, 1982 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Kevin the Cane Toad
(eats chunder out of a dead tadpole’s bum) Up the hair-line crack to the good ledge and bolt. Thence up, up and away. FA: R. (Chunder) Chudliegh & T. Ball, 1985 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Cash in the Hand
Start: 2m right of ‘Sticky Deposit’. Up fiercely overhung water streak, then up groove, trend right up slab to ‘Higher Purchase’, up this to top. FA: T. Ball, John Lattanzio & Chunder, 1985 | 30m | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Bang Bang Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Crawling From the Wreckage
Interesting and well protected climbing up the ‘Bang Bang’ wall. start: About 3m right of ‘Bang Bang’. Up onto large blocks to clip the first bolt, then step right onto the slab, up and past another bolt to the crack of ‘Bang Bang’. Cross this and head straight up the wall past 2 more bolts to the top. Belay/rap chains in place. FA: Mark Colyvan, John Lattanzio & Anthony Brennan, 1986 | 30m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Thats Entertainment
Originally had two points of aid, the first being the second bolt. The aid was almost eliminated by Paul Bayne and was eventually freed by Giles Bradbury May 1983. It is now one of New England’s it most popular hard free routes. Start: Sm right of ‘Bang Bang’ at rightward trending groove. Follow groove right, then back left past bolt runner into corner, up to second bolt and on to ledge and belay/rap chain. Note that both bolts are usually clipped with wires first these days. FA: Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, Paul Bayne & Mark Colyvan, 1982 | 30m, 2 | |||
23 | The Gates of Moria
This poor excuse for a climb should be cemented up... actually it’s probably a good route for visiting Queenslanders to do. Start: About 10m right of ‘That’s Entertainment’ below big ugly 3 chimney.
FA: Chris Dale & Paul Bayne, 1998 | 45m, 3 | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Spider Terrace | |||||
23 | ★★ Down for the Count
Start: Rap into the ledge halfway up ‘The Gates of Moria’ from the chains on top of ‘The Gremlin’ buttress. The climb starts from this ledge and goes up the right wall of the gully. Clip the bolt then an awkward move to start to pull across onto the wall. Move right and up to a second bolt then up to the small roof and around this past a third bolt, then follow the rightward trending seam up past another bolt to the arête. Easily to top. Chain belay plus a bolt down lower where the climb meets the arête. FA: Mark Colyvan & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1998 | 25m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Fellatio by Tonto
Start: from the sentry box atop of pitch one of ‘Working Class Heroes’. From the sentry box belay step left onto the wall and crack. A hard crank right, then back left overcomes the blank section. FA: Russell (Chunder) Chudliegh & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1985 | 12m | |||
24 | Tuggin Mutton
A hard bouldery short route. Start: From the top abseil down to the base of the chimney between the dome and the main cliff (on the left side). It is the steep slab just left of the chimney. Up slab past two bolts FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 12m, 2 | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Pagan Paradise Buttress | |||||
23 | Penny Short of a Pound
Hardly worth the effort. Start: Left of ‘Pagan Paradise’ and about 2m right of 'I'm Laughin’ Up thin crack to ledge, clip bolt runner then a hard move out left to the arête. Continue up arête past another bolt runner to top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 15m, 2 | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Flight Deck | |||||
23 | ★ Prime Time
Start: At the bottom of the V-chimney below the obvious roof about Om right of Dogmatic Demise’ on the extreme right hand end of the flight deck. Up V-chimney, step left under roof, then follow crack through roof to top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 15m | |||
24 | ★ Running on Empty
Very sustained and hard crack climbing (mostly). Originally aid through the first roof then a couple of rests up higher but was freed on it’s second ascent by Bayne and Colyvan with a bit of yo-yoing on 1/8/82, Start: To the right of ‘Charisma’. Through fists roof, up crack through second roof, up overhanging rightward trending crack past fixed wire then up wall to top. FA: Paul Bayne, 1982 | 25m | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Brut & Environs | |||||
24 | ★★★ Backlash
Classic thin face climbing. Start: About two metres left of ‘Ambrosia’. Clip fixed wire with a stick then over bouldery start to the finger crack. Up this to a bolt then continue up wall past another bolt to a third bolt. Move left and up to a fourth bolt, then left and up again to chain on top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1987 | 25m, 4 | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Lower Dome Wall | |||||
23 | ★★★ Sweet Dreams
????? | 60m | |||
23 | Female Frenzy
Start: 2m right of ‘Grave Reservations’, the overhanging orange Corner.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Leis, 1982 | 40m, 2 |