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Voies dans Northwest Slopes and plains pour la cotation selectionnée

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Affichant les 61 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Kaputar northern section Waa Gorge Main Waall
22 - 24 JN2
Sportive
Kaputar northern section Waa Gorge Lightning Wall
24 Lightning

Sport climb on hangers follows the obvious line up the slab on easy holds before turning vertical. A tough finish guards the chains.

FA: James vilimaa, 2018

Sportive 20m, 11
22/23 cold

About 8m to the right of Lightning. Some reachy moves.

Sportive 9
Kaputar northern section Waa Gorge The Axe Factory
23 Peeving Parrot

The climb to the left of the cave, It might be wise to stick clip the second bolt if not confident.

FA: James vilimaa, 24 Août 2018

Sportive 28m
Kaputar Euglah Rock
23 Titarse Andronicus

Right of WY, start off boulder, done originally pulling on aid bolt to overcome undercut buttress. Step left and up wall direct. Was 21 M0, now free. Chain belay with single carabiner.

FA: robin barley & judy komori, 2006

FFA: Vanessa Wills, 2018

Sportive 25m
23 The Roustabout

The bolted face left of Freudian Slip.

  1. 30m (23) Climb orange wall on good in-cuts past an area of friable rock (was done at 21 with 2 aid bolts) and go up left on grey rock to belay ledge and rap chains. This is a sport pitch.

  2. 20m (19) Step right into Freudian Slip and follow main crack then left groove at top to chains. Trad gear to 2”.

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2010

FFA: Vanessa Wills, Juin 2016

Sportive 50m, 2
23 Adventures in Drongoland pitch 2.

Apparently bolted but never climbed by Peter Wehr. Now readily accessed by Climbing AIDL, making a great second pitch, or rap in off bolts above GOW.

FFA: Vanessa Wills, 2016

Sportive 15m, 7
24 Simba

P1 20 m 23 As for Aslan pitch 1, belay on ledge. P2 25 m 24. Start Aslan pitch 2 but exit stemming box on left and take crack to left of Aslan corner.

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Juin 2020

Trad 45m, 2
23 Gloworthy Groove

10m right of LIS, climb crumbly rock to excellent overhanging corner and shared chains. Accidentally retro bolted by Barley, who then discovered it had been climbed by Carrigan in 1997, and some bolts were removed. Studs with nuts are remnant.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1997

Trad 20m
24 Edge of Ecstasy

Start as for DF but step right to arête. Continue up black face past many bolts before veering right to arête at top. Chains.

FA: john Fantini, Mick Hafner & Robin Rarley, 2008

Sportive 30m, 14
23 R Edge Effects

Great sustained climbing up arête and face to right, but poorly protected with minimal worthwhile gear between the BR until the last 10 metres. However it was originally climbed with only 3 BR and TheFA does not wish the route to be retro bolted. Start right of arête to first BR, then up to arête at roof. Follow arête before moving back right to face and corner , the follow corner until you can step left into another crack that leads to chain anchor shared with EOE

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1983

Trad mixte 40m, 5
23 Blind Terror

An imposing black corner with BT clearly initialled at start. Described as a serious lead in the Colyvan guide. Trad belay.

FA: Mark Colyvan

Trad 40m
24 Wehrs

Ring bolted route 4 m right of where track meets wall. Choss to roof then up face passing spaced large ring bolts. Chains to left after topping out. Some trad gear could be placed in horizontals, but that wouldn't help the runouts that much.

Équip.: peter Wehr

Sportive 25m, 8
23 Slashing Rain

MIXED route. FHs to chains with one small wire needed. Climb yellow crumbly face past bolts then left through roof and over grey rock (wire) to ledge. Small wire and finger sized cams useful to supplement last bolt which has a sleeve sticking out 1 cm.Chain belay. Start 4 m L of revival block and just to left of 15% direct start.

FA: Howe & Barley, 2007

Trad 25m
23 Pink Slip
Trad 30m
23 Antipodean Tippler

Start down, right of Revival. Follow bolts up yellow rock through overlap just left of arête to chains

FA: mick Hafner & Robin Barley, 2008

Sportive 30m
23 You'll be right Mate

The right of the seams in the orange alcove. Up steeply then right onto face and back left over small roof to shared anchors. "23" chiselled at base.

FA: John Fantini & Robin Barley, 2009

Sportive 30m
Kaputar The Governor North Face
24 One for the Road

A nice warm up for the hard men.

Start: 10m right of 'Patient Scruff', the middle of three lines through the overhang.

  1. 18m (24) Up strenuously through roof (crux), follow crackline on wall to stance.

  2. 12m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobon Sorrensen & John Allen, 1979

Trad 30m, 2
23 R Tales of Brave Ulysses

A superb climb that takes a rising traverse line from 'Acid Test' to about The Promised Land including a daunting traverse of the main roofs. Exposed, Sustained and spectacular.

Start: As for 'Acid Test'

  1. 40m (20) Up through bulges and traverse rightwards from second triangular overhang, along lip of overhangs into shallow corner. Hard moves around nose as for Forbidden Delights, and easy rising line into next corner (bottom of 'The Real McCoy' corner). Drop down and around onto slab. Up and right to bottom of 'Twilight Time' corner.

  2. 30m (20) Horizontally below corners into Sago Entree. Across to and up the short V-groove of 'Iconoclast' to its main line. Right and slightly up to obvious jug on arete. Traverse horizontally across two awkward black walls to foot ledge in 'Gun Control'.

  3. 15m (20) Traverse horizontally right to good ledge on nose (high runners in crack). Along boldly to next crack (White Heat) and up to pedestal.

  4. 18m (23) Horizontally around blunt nose and continue with increasing difficulty into recess capped by large black overhangs. Across to first belay os 'Sky Pilot'.

  5. 25m (21) Across into maze of blocky overhangs. Trend to far top righthand corner to make an exciting exit into crackline. Follow crack for about 10m and move right to small ledge at bottom of black corner.

  6. 25m (22) Straight around nose to yellow corner. Continue across wall into another corner, up to roof and move right into hanging corner. Bold bridging up to hanging belay about 5m below roof.

  7. 42m (18) Traverse across 3 grooves and down slightly to obvious footledge on skyline arete. Up and across below line of roofs, around end and up clean crack to top.

FA: Chris Dale & Ian Brown (varied leads), 1983

Trad 200m, 7
24 White Heat

A classic roof problem.

Start: Marked. 9m right of 'Spook', below extreme left end of main overhangs

  1. 36m (24) (crux) Tough thin crack splitting middle of roof, follow crack to belay stance.

  2. 41m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen, 1979

Trad 77m, 2
23 Double Trouble

A fine crackline.

Start: Below two tiered roof, about 5m right of 'White Heat'.

  1. 30m (23) (crux) Take corner crack directly below two tiered roof for about 8m, traverse left on horizontal crack into first crackline which splits the side of the buttress. Up crack to belay stance.

  2. 40m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen (alt), 1979

Trad 70m, 2
23 The Great Barrier Roof

A sustained penetration of huge overhangs.

Start: As for 'Blood on the Moon'.

  1. 30m (23) crux) Up shattered wall to orange offwidth, traverse directly right on lip of overhang to arete, up arete to horizontal undercling, traverse left and up crack splitting top overhangs.

  2. 37m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen (alt), 1979

Trad 67m, 2
23 Live Bait

Start: At the seam 8m left of 'The Millionaire Touch'.

  1. 25m (-) Up the seam to small overhang, right and up past BR Up more steeply (BR and fixed wire), then left at easier angle (fixed wire) to HDBB.

  2. 22m (23) (crux) Step out and left past BR, then traverse 3m left with feet just above overhangs to good crack. Up this until you can move left to crack on arete. Up to SHB.

  3. 33m (-) Up line.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1987

Trad 80m, 3
24 The Millionaire Touch

Takes the central roofs at their narrowest point.

Start 15m left of 'Soul on Ice', just right of a large boulder.

  1. 25m (-) Up vague line in the shattered wall tending left to a shattered pillar with very small stance on top (with nuts above)

  2. 33m (24) (crux) Right and up onto undercut wall then up and right for 5m then awkwardly up line to below two lines.

  3. 45m (-) Up and left into undercut corner. Up to top.

FA: K Lindorff, 1, 2, 3. P Bain & R Curtis, 1982

Trad 100m, 3
23 Cheek to Cheek
  1. 20m (22) Through broken bulge wiht poor pro and up seam on wall to good ledge on right (first belay on 'Pomp and Circumstance').

  2. 15m (23) (crux) Up crack as for 'Pomp and Circumstance' for 8m, then em left and up short corner to small stance on right.

  3. 40m (21) Up, 1m right in to twin cracks and up wall and corner.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1983

Trad 85m, 3
23 A Wolf in the Heart

This replaces Bum Leeper, the crux pitch of which was destroyed by falling rock. For full details of the rationale for the changes see the description for 'Bum Leeper'.

Start: 2m left of the original start of 'Bum Leeper'.

  1. 40m (-) Climb up for about 20 metres to a groove which slants leftwards. Climb this, exiting with difficulty close to the first belay of 'Bum Leeper'.

  2. 30m (23) (crux). This is the new pitch which replaces the original second pitch of 'Bum Leeper' which was destroyed by a rock fall. Move left and up to the bottom of a right-facing, clean corner. (It has a fine crack in its left wall which will take small gear). Up this with difficulty at start.

  3. 23m (-) Move slightly right and up the corner above.

FA: Richard Curtis (2), Ben Christian (1 & 3), 2000

Trad 93m, 3
23 Against the Grain

The thin crack-line which weaves up the the right wall of 'Borrowed Time' corner.

Start: 5m right of 'Borrowed Time'.

  1. 47m (-) Boulder start then up line to sloping ledge.

  2. 43m (-) Up crack to ledge, then up cracked arete.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1983

Trad 80m, 2
Kaputar The Governor The Walker Spur
23 Cold Shoulder

Right end of roof 8m right of Stiff Upper Lip. Start Marked. Up blind corner to roof moving right to second roof (tricky pro) then into corner and up.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Chris Newman, 1983

FFA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1983

Trad 23m
Kaputar The Governor Motor City
24 Twist of the Wrist

Big Black corner roughly 100m R of Gas it Up. BRs.

FA: Paul Colyvan, Steve Moon, Greg Moore, John Smoothy Easter & John Smoothy, 1987

Trad 35m
Kaputar Lindsay Rock Tops North Face
23 Mungindi Glove

UP 'Back Roads' for a couple of moves, then right and up wall (BR) to groove.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987

Trad mixte 25m, 1
23 That Old Soft Shoe

Up through bulge then thin crack up wall (2BRs).

Start: 4m left of 'The Idle Rich'

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1985

Trad mixte 25m, 2
Kaputar Lindsay Rock Tops East Face
24 The Sunlit Plains Extended

Start just right of where blocks obstruct walkway.

  1. 20m (18) Step off boulder into hand crack then right into right facing dihedral past 3 bolts, up to ledge and DBB. Has become vegetated so corner to the right is better.

  2. 20m (24). Up dihedral, thin gear and 3 bolts

FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013

FFA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2017

Trad mixte 40m, 2, 5
24 Everlasting Stars

10m L of 'Wondrous Beauty'. Sustained steep face climbing. Trends right and steps right around arête at top. Shares chains with WB.

FA: Robin Barley, 2013

FFA: John Fantini, 2016

Sportive 33m, 15
24 Curse the Currawong

From the belay ledge of WTC continue up the line to top. Possible to abseil in from a variety of hardware.

Équip.: john Fantini, 2018

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Avr 2019

Sportive 15m, 5
Kaputar Lindsay Rock Tops Fern Gully
23 Jurassic Park

The groove up the centre of the ampitheatre to DBB. Starts at small pedestal onto column and steps right as it starts to steepen into main line.

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Déc 2023

Sportive 31m, 15
Kaputar Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall
24 Leather jacket

Slab to low roof. Tricky moves past second bolt, then continue up to the right of prow, moving right at top to shared anchors.

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Avr 2019

Sportive 18m, 6
23 The banded Huntsman

The sharp overhanging arete 15 m right of waterfall. Start on ground, not up ramp. Optional small finger size wire or cam after last bolt. Optional small wires to start, or use a long stick. Walk back to DBB.

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Nov. 2020

Sportive 15m, 3
23 Laid Away

Lay away the thin seam 5m right of Fools Gold. Start on ramp. Optional cam or nut in pocket between first and second bolts. DBB

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Avr 2018

Sportive 20m, 6
23 The Weeping Wall

Start off block left of pillar leaning against wall as for LT. Up Past bolt to gain finger crack that continues up from the top of the pillar to share anchors with LT. Gear to #1. Lots of small cams.

Trad mixte 25m, 1
23 The Leaning Tower

Start from top of block just left of large pillar that is leaning on main wall. Good 0.75 in undercling to left, then step left into thin seam that runs up blunt arête. A set of TCUs and cams to 0.75 and a good medium wire. DRBB

Trad mixte 25m, 4
24 R Brennan's water streak aka BB

Up onto block then up black water streak past 3 very spaced bolts. Cleaning may unearth some more trad placements but options seem minimal. Start just past the watercourse 100 m before Beat on the Brat and 5 m right of Meritorious. Old chains and Biner below top.

FA: anthony Brennan

Trad mixte 20m, 3
24 The Prow

Start as for UTCB but climb pillar to left side of roof then up thin crack and arete on hanging buttress via a currently rusty old bolt and good small wires

FA: A Brennan

Trad mixte 20m, 1
Kaputar Lindsay Rock Tops Brat Area
23 I Wanna Mount Lindsey

The face left of BOB.

FA: Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, 2003

Sportive 20m, 5
23 The Liberation Front

Very thin crack 4m left of arête, next to pillar, straight up to tree anchor 2/3 of way up cliff. Thin gear in bottom 2/3, #1 cam useful in horizontal half height

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2017

Trad 15m
Narrabri Little Mountain
V4 Crack Cross over

Stand start with the obvious finger lock crack, set up feet and big throw to small edge, a bunch of compression moves and good bouldering. A sit start goes but adds alot more harder climbing, yet to be unlocked

NA: Luke Hef & nathaniel glavurdic, 23 Sept 2023

Bloc 6m
V4 Rabi Neanderthal

Sit start with underling.

NA: 25 Août 2023

Bloc
V4 Highball direct

The direct eliminates a couple rock climbing moves!

NA: Luke Hef & nathaniel glavurdic, 5 Sept 2023

Bloc
Attunga State Forest Distraction Therapy
23 Meet Your Maker

Stick clip first bolt. Start on right side face, climb around blunt arete to undercling seem following U bolts to top.

FA: Michael Moore, 28 Sept 2022

Sportive 15m, 8
Attunga State Forest Mushu
24 Defeating The Huns

Steep splitter in a dihedral. Starts as baggy #4's, thins to #0.75 and opens up again to baggy #3's. Continue to DBB, if you extend the anchors and skip the last tenuous jams you haven't done it.

FA: Michael Moore, Ben Hope & Kyle Fensbo, 18 Mars 2023

Trad 15m
Moonbi slabs Fermé Anteater Buttress
24 Head Over Heels-Direct Finish

Start: From the belay at the end of the first pitch. A hard and bold variant finish.

Straight up through the headwall above the belay past a BR. to a bolt belay.

FA: John Wilde, 1990

Trad 15m
Moonbi slabs Upper Boulders
23 Down Syndrome
Non-défini 20m
Moonbi slabs Moonbi Range Lower Range Jeepers Creepers Sacrificial Goat
24 Ring Of Fire

Thin and sequencey boulder problem into a cool topout/mantle. 3 FH to DBB on top of buttress.

FA: Michael Moore, 13 Août 2022

Sportive 10m, 5
Moonbi slabs Moonbi Range Upper Range Area 51 Transporter One
V4 Abducted

Up the left, keep inside and use a hand jam in the awkward upper crack.

Équip.: James vilimaa, Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 31 Mai 2016

FA: James vilimaa, 31 Mai 2016

Bloc 4m
The Wastelands Sandy road/east side of hill The tooth
V4 Unsanctioned love

A sit start problem with a solid mantle on the right hand side of the Tooth. A one move wonder type climb.

Équip.: James vilimaa

FA: James vilimaa, 23 Juil 2017

Bloc 2m
Tintinhull Tintin's Sleepy Wallaby Boulder
V4 The Woodchipper

Stand start below obvious mantle jug. Set feet and punch high. A committing, balancy finish which may demand shin pads.

FA: Ben Vincent, 22 Fév 2020

Bloc 4m
Tintinhull Tintin's Bearded Hipster
V4 Charcoal Activated Booch

Stand start. Up crimpy features to a committing pebbly top out.

FA: Ben Vincent, 20 Fév 2020

Bloc 3m
Tamworth Lookout Intensive Care Area
V4 Intensive Care

Sit start on two opposing side pulls and a good footer to the left. Move up to right hand side pull, stand up to gain slopey rail with the left. Match hands and use good left foot to dyno to the lip, mantle to finish. (New static method found, more like v4 now) Michael Moore

FA: Michael Moore, 15 Août 2021

Bloc 2m
Tamworth Lookout Obliteration Imminent Area
V4 Obliteration Imminent

Sit start matched on flake low down. Left hand up to side pull, right hand out to good side pull in seam. Foot trickery to then gain good edges up higher. Top out using various good crimpers. The crack and wall to the left is out.

FA: Michael Moore, 20 Août 2021

Bloc 4m
V4 Obliterated

Start as per Obliteration Imminent then follow the seam to the right.

FA: Michael Moore, 25 Août 2021

Bloc
V4 Obliteration Imminent Right Hand Variant

Stand start matched on crescent shaped crimper. Left hand to slopey rail, far footer left, right hand to small crimp in the seam, left hand up to small slopey pocket. Rest as per OI. Right hand crack and features on right hand wall is out.

FA: Michael Moore, 20 Août 2021

Bloc 4m
Tamworth Lookout Lethal Devotion Area
V4 Lethal Devotion

Right side of the wall, thin moves heady topout.

FA: Michael Moore, 21 Août 2021

Bloc 5m

Affichant les 61 voies total.

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