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The Pocketed Wall

Accès: Aboriginal site - please be mindful

The local Aboriginal community has requested climbers stay off the routes Fine Cuts, Nobody Told Me, Lick the Pig and Je Baise Ma Fraigne, as the area below these routes is significant to them. They regularly visit this site so please respect their wishes.

Détails de l'alerte et commentaires

A ajouté il y a 4 ans

Saison

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Description

When it comes to spooge, the Pocketed Wall is like the canary in the coalmine. Conditions here die a rapid spoogy death at the slightest hint of humidity, when other crags nearby remain perfectly climbable. As a result, either (a) you'll become a complete conditions snob and will bail the instant the dewpoint is over 6 degrees, or (b) you'll blithely persist ... and get massively spanked. But on the upside, the routes are great on a cool crisp day, and the Hustler roof routes are completely rainproof and spooge-proof so you can always get on those.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Thompson's Point

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

Éthique hérité de Nowra

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

Hard and pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic Nowra.

FA: Steve Barry, 1992

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

From the ledge, pull onto the main face for a few crimpy moves then up past the slopey pockets to an exciting undercling finish!

Start: Start on foot of pinnacle. 2m right of MTHF.

Stick-clip first bolt.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

FA: John Passlow, 1992

Start in front of the dead tree. Up blunt arete for a few bolts then traverse left to finish up Hide The Salami. Grade restored for cultural preservation.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1991

Link of Mesmo Butts into Butts of Beef.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

Clip the anchor for BOB then head out through the slightly sandy roof to an impressive arete. Blast up this and you're all done!

Start: Start as for BOB

FA: Simon Bell, 1998

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

The popular route Je Baise has been identified as having a significant site to local Aboriginal culture at the base of the cliff. Please stay off this route to show goodwill and help preserve access to the larger area of Thompson's Point.

Fermé

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

Fermé

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

Fermé

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

Fermé

Easy start for 7m then crimp desperately to sloper. Finish with a pumo slightly left then right to anchor under roof. Finish as described added 2012.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

Fermé

Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990

Rebolted 08-07-2006.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990

Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall.

FA: Paul Meharg, 2006

Easily and often confused with The Hustler. The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Start on the very right hand side of the pocketed wall. Follow the permadraws left through the roof. Where they (and the chalk) continue up (The Hustler), this breaks left again (no permadraws!) through the top roof and up onto the amazing orange rock of the headwall.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1991

Now with permadraws from the roof to the top. But watch out for the just-too-short permadraw which pinches your rope hard against the sharpish main lip of the roof - BYO extender. This is an excellent option for rainy days - even if the Pocketed Wall is shut down by the spooge this route is unaffected.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

FA: Paul Westwood, 1993

Same start as Peacocks after second ring follow fixed brackets heading left. Anchors and abseil same as Peacocks.

FA: Boyd Robinson, 2007

This is a rap-in route left of Picture This with new rap-in anchors to semi-hanging belay. If you are worried about run-outs then pack a #1 Wild Country friend and a blue zero. AWESOME Route!!!!

FA: Marcus Loane & Boydo, 2007

Optional friend.

FA: Boyd Robinson, 1993

FA: Ant Prehn, 1991

Around the corner from the Hustlers. Most of the climb on the same block, the west facing wall, but you start with a scramble on a different South facing wall. High first bolt then run out to optional belay on the right corner of the west wall, but easy moves. Climb really starts once you're on that wall. Traverse flat left past Traditional Evolution (20) bolts to more central bolts. If you're comfortable you can skip the belay point to avoid a lot of drag, or go back and unclip it once you're into the next bolt. Then 45 degree angle left to next bolt, and straight up friendly enough holds to top.

Fun little adventure. Bolts are good now.

FA: Roy Fryer, Cerin McMillan & Bob McMillan, 1996

FA: Roy Fryer & Bob McMillan, 1998

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter, Carlie LeBreton, Rob LeBreton, Neil Monteith, Rod Young

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780994278449

The new Nowra guide is the most comprehensive guide to one of Australias largest sport climbing destinations. Coincidently it also includes New Nowra or Braidwood Park as it is now known which contains 650 routes in itself. With over 1500 routes all up it will be impossible to run out of projects to get yourself spanked on ever again.

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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Dim 28 Mai
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