Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mar 26 Mars 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve P1
- avec
Aaron Jones
1
| 38m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Accessed via 80m rap and swing. p1 onsight, then rapped and stripped the gear for Azza's flash. Really fantastic pitch of climbing. Rather than p2 which was wet and vegetated, climbed p2 of Charlie Don't Surf which was actually harder than p1.
|
||||||
Ven 8 Mars 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | ||||||
25 |
Gant de fissure
★★★ Echo Crack
- avec
Aaron Jones
1
grimpé en tête par
Aaron Jones
Quite the minefield of lookout-launched trash to navigate on the way. Could be a good Clean Up Australia Day site.
3
grimpé en tête par
Aaron Jones
Pitch was wet and slimy. Mega effort from Aaron to get it done with no crack gloves or tape, sliding out of the crack with bloodied hands. I somehow stayed on, all credit to the crack gloves. A few odd pieces, then 4x #2 camalots in a row, then all #3's to the belay.
4
grimpé en tête par
Lee Cujes
The hardest I've worked for a pitch of climbing in a long time. I was peaking. Admittedly it was wet, but even in the dry I would have struggled. Cracks are not my thing, and there's no escape on this pitch. For me personally, this was only slightly easier (1 grade?) than the crux pitch. I used 6x #3 camalots, 2x equivalent-sized hexes, 2x #4 camalots and this was only just enough for my level of comfort (4m+ runouts). You need all the big gear to adequately protect the pitch - you cannot supplement with anything smaller anywhere on the pitch. If I did it again (I never will) I would take 10-12 #3 camalots. A little safety note on the top-out: After clipping some carrots to stand on a ledge with a final 5m headwall to finish. This is protected by one carrot. If you only clipped this carrot (like me) and then fell on last moves topping out, the rope wouldn't even have a chance to take up before you broke both legs on the flat ledge below. Instead, there is a cam slot that is hard to see as it's in your handhold above your head. Roughly #1 camalot size. Use it! (I would strongly advocate the addition of a final bolt to mitigate a potential future catastrophe - you have just clipped 4 or 5 in a row, after all) | 190m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Cracks are hard.
|
||||||
Sam 7 Oct. 2023 - Massif du Mont Blanc | ||||||
Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Aiguille du Midi South Face / Face Sud | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Kohlmann - avec Sammi, kevin | 200m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Epic alpine experience with a guide very late in the season, but we randomly nailed the weather and had a very memorable day. Huge pack with 2 sets of mountain boots made the cruxes touch and go. Climbed some of the shaded (frigid) pitches in gloves.
|
||||||
Mer 19 Juil 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite - avec Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
No wind at the cliff but at least dry. Almost fell off the start. Did fall on crux 2 and decided to throw out my beta for something new with one shot remaining. Didn't go to top. [18]
|
||||||
Mar 18 Juil 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite — 2 essais - avec Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Overnight rain and drizzle in the morning. No wind. 85% humidity. Burn 1 shaky to ledge, fell on crux 2, then climbed from the bolt to the top clean in the worst conditions. Almost as proud of this effort as a clean send.
- Burn 2 more confident. Fell crux 2, then for some reason my boots just started visibly sliding off the holds [17]
|
||||||
Dim 16 Juil 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite — 2 essais - avec Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Hot, 15-17C and 65%. Zero breeze. 2x TR burns both with 1 fall at crux #2. Very good considering conditions. [15]
|
||||||
Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite — 2 essais - avec Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Commencing the campaign. 2 working TR burns. [13]
|
||||||
Dim 2 Juil 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Shoe testing session. I imagine this would be pretty gripping on lead.
|
||||||
23 | Hotel du Lac | 30m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Failed to do the crux despite many attempts, lol. Slabs.
|
||||||
Dim 2 Juil 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Dick Whittington | 15m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Shoe testing session.
|
||||||
Jeu 18 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
28 ~29 | ★★ Yesterday Direct Direct — 2 essais - avec @1293 | 25m, 3 | ||||
Mega. Techy and powerful in an old school style, and I didn't do one of the moves. If they said it was 30 that would seem fair to me.
|
||||||
Jeu 18 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Ethereal - avec @1293, Gareth Llewellin | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Classy Araps rock.
|
||||||
Dim 14 Mai 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused - avec @1293 | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Remembering how to place wires. Start was committing.
|
||||||
Lun 1 Mai 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite - avec Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
First time back on after 17 years. A bit of an exploration following Duncan's funeral to feel that connection again and consider if I want to commit further. [11]
|
||||||
Mar 7 Mars 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Cave Climb - avec Erik Smits | 50m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat with E
|
||||||
Sam 26 Mars 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - avec Jake Bresnehan | 30m, 7 | ||||
Punks shot #2. Hot, face melting. Was mostly keen to experience the top section. Climbed clean to below the heel move, pulled through. Climbed from the rest and stuck the drive-by, couldn't stand up, then pulled through. Did the rest of moves, not nicely, with screaming skin. Then drive 11 hours home!
|
||||||
Ven 25 Mars 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - avec Jake Bresnehan | 30m, 7 | ||||
1.5 hours dogging around, experiencing a piece of climbing history. Did all moves up to and including the birdbath drive-by. Struggled after, didn't really get stood up. Also struggled on the lower heel move, kinda managed it once. Toasted by the time I lowered off. A 20+ year dream to get on this route.
|
||||||
Jeu 24 Mars 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Follow Your Nose | 12m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
Dim 10 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hocus Pocus Area | ||||||
15 | ★ El Dingle | 54m, 3 | Pas la peine | |||
This was not the "climb with a pack on shortcut to the car" route I was hoping for. What was probably a fun jaunt in the 60s is just too dangerous by modern standards. And oddly, because of the few bolts, their positions and hugely weaving nature of the climbing, it's probably just as dangerous for the second as the leader.
|
||||||
Lun 4 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - avec Sammi | 50m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Interesting in part because you cannot see the business from the ground. The hidden offwidth was actually hard! If I was doing it again I'd wear socks and maybe an approach shoe on my left foot. Thank god for the #5 camalot I've been holding onto for 20 years and never using until now. The novel cord-slung chockstone belay could do with an upgrade to chain as it's only a matter of time before abrasion or sun gets the better of it.
|
||||||
Ven 3 Sept 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★★ On Both Sides of the Glass Direct - avec Sammi | 60m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
The first pitch is a great arete feature. Tons of trad and 2 carrots. Crux bulge is tricky and pumpy. For the second pitch, the direct certainly seemed the more sensible option and I'm glad we took it. I wonder if many people hit the ledge falling off the start of p2 (especially on second with rope stretch)? Take a panic draw if you have one. I reckon you'd want to be confident climbing 22 on trad to jump on this one. We walked off (staying roped up for the first 30m) which was fine to get back to the Cave Climb abseil, or back to the car if this is your last climb of the day.
|
||||||
13 | ★★★ Cave Climb - avec Sammi | 50m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Fantastic and unique cave pitch, crawling into the depths of the earth. You can happily take and use all your large protection. Big cams #3 → #5, big hexes etc. Access is rap in (50m should be fine), climb out, so very convenient. Stay safe getting to the exposed abseil point.
|
||||||
Dim 22 Août 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
9 | ★ Frolic - avec Sammi | 13m | ★★ Excellent | |||
#11 hex, y'all!
|
||||||
Dim 15 Août 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Charity - avec Sammi | 14m | ★ Bon | |||
16 surely?
|
||||||
15 | ★★ Hope - avec Sammi | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice one
|
||||||
15 15 R | ★ Chastity - avec Sammi | 14m | ||||
Retreat! Retreat! Climbed in 1966 in concrete boots and wooden rope. In 2021 with modern gear, I backed off. And I'm alright with that.
|
||||||
Sam 7 Août 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - avec Sammi | 27m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Man, that was great. Intimidating, glad to have finally done it. Filmed the POV, it's on YouTube. Onsight spolier.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Amen Corner - avec Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Really cool, with the wide section being pretty heady (for those of us without #7 cams!). Calves were burning. There may have even been #calfspooge.
|
||||||
Dim 18 Juil 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall - avec Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
A cool varied wandering adventure. The low mantle is quite tricky I thought! Don't land on the tree spike of death!
|
||||||
17 |
★★★ Flake Crack
- avec
Sammi
1
17
15m
2
17
15m
3
23m
| 53m | ★★★ Classique | |||
I'm surprised there's not more prangs on this. The layback is pretty slip-off-able and big cams aren't always the best things in the world. Having a couple of #4 camalots for the flake would be prudent rather than relying on one.
|
||||||
Dim 18 Juil 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Can't claim the onsight. Seconded this 19 years ago
|
||||||
Dim 11 Juil 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart - avec Sammi | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Continually interesting and enjoyable from bottom to top.
|
||||||
13 | ★★★ Honey Dip - avec Sammi | 28m, 1 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
This is the best easy pitch I've done in the Blue Mountains.
|
||||||
Dim 4 Juil 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Giggles - avec Sammi | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Classic! Just two cams (#1.5 and #2 friend).
|
||||||
Dim 4 Juil 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Dress Rehearsal Rag Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Dead Milkmen - avec Sammi | 15m, 1 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Lots of little wires. I tried to avoid stickclipping the only very high first carrot, but then backed off and stickclipped. Which was a bit of a mission in and of itself.
|
||||||
Lun 10 Juin 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ A Good Day to be a Duck - avec Sammi | 24m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Just on the bolts.
|
||||||
Sam 18 Mai 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags One For The Road | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Fishing With Dynamite - avec Sammi | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Super interesting, engaging climbing all the way. Great!
|
||||||
Sam 18 Mai 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Fat Chance Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Fat Chance - avec Sammi | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Done as a rather runout sport route. Great sequence!
|
||||||
Sam 18 Mai 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Inner Space Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Stormbringer - avec Sammi | 20m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lovely rounded sloper holds.
|
||||||
Ven 19 Avr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter' | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - avec Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Send attempt - fell on the crux, came down.
|
||||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - avec Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Attempted ground up. Definitely out of my comfort zone. Slipped out of the wet initial boulder and that was that. Then climbed from the ground to the crux (placing gear) and fell on the crux, unsurprisingly. Took some effort to unlock the crux move. Then to top, placing gear with a couple of rests. Was en route for well over an hour.
|
||||||
Sam 13 Avr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) - avec Sammi, Kris, Analissa | 130m, 12 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice sneaker romp with friends.
|
||||||
Sam 6 Avr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
21 | ★ Constrictor - avec Sammi | 18m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
After botching it the other day and finishing up World Party, today climbed as intended.
|
||||||
27 26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - avec Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Was very confident but fell on the span again. Easy to bugger up!
|
||||||
27 26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - avec Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Obviously tricky (pointless?) to grade a reach dependent crux, but for me at 175cm of reach, this is worth 27. Climbed in one pitch via Anaconda p1. If you like stop-start routes, this'll be your jam. [3]
|
||||||
26 | ★★ Jumping Viper - avec Sammi | 28m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Tried the dyno about 20 times. Latched the hold on a few occasions but didn't manage to control the swing. Ankles still sore. Onsighted the rest.
|
||||||
Jeu 4 Avr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
22 | Anaconda Pitch 1 - avec Sammi | 17m | Dans la moyenne | |||
As part of Forked Tongue. That bolt is now something of a relic.
|
||||||
21 | ★★★ Constrictor into World Party - avec Sammi | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Done by many others previously as this is the obvious straight-up line of climbing. Well worth doing at this grade and gives a great introductory taste of proper Taipan climbing.
|
||||||
26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - avec Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Tried very hard to onsight - failed. Fell on the span. It's less technical than the Groovy span, but about the same distance. I had so much crap hanging off my harness. A #4 rock and #1.5 cam will do it. Fingers crossed for Saturday.
|
||||||
Mer 3 Avr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
20 | ★★ Atomic Tadpole - avec Sammi | 40m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Cool to do something on this end of the wall. A really cool easier tradventure. Getting off was unexpectedly involved (soloing down into the chimney behind to eventually reach a rap station).
|
||||||
Lun 1 Avr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
23 23 R | ★★★ The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant - avec Sammi | 46m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Full version including the pants filling traverse.
|
||||||
Dim 31 Mars 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sirocco Pitch 1 - avec Kris Hampton | 20m, 1 | Dans la moyenne | |||
17 years between drinks on this one. Pretty desperate really. Especially when wet.
|
||||||
23 | ★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1 - avec Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
12 years since I last climbed this. I was bolder back then.
|
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Dim 24 Mars 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
19 18 | ★★ Apron Strings | 32m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really enjoyed this. Plenty of gear and enjoyable the whole way.
|
||||||
Sam 9 Mars 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
20 | ★ Torrential - avec Duncan | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Trad. What you can do with a bung finger.
|
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21 | ★ Middle Finger - avec Duncan | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Nah, it’s the ring. A bit spicy getting around the roof, as evidenced by the dude who took two massive whippers attempting.
|
||||||
24 M4 |
★ Thumbs Up
- avec
Duncan
1
24
25m
2
M4
27m
3
15
40m
| 92m | Dans la moyenne | |||
p1 only. Snapped a hold and started falling, looked down and saw trad, and found another gear - overdrive.
|
||||||
Sam 29 Déc 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Samarkand - avec @1293 | 130m | ★★★ Classique | |||
I led the even pitches and Aaron the odd and even better — all onsight, a no falls day.
.
It was pretty close for me on the crux pitch as I happened to run out of the cams I needed for the crux section at the 30m mark. I placed some pretty junky gear and hesitated for a long time, hanging off a jug on an overhang before finally committing to the overhung off-finger-sized crack. In full sport climbing mode I laybacked up it, got one working fingerlock and swung out of the layback (and almost off completely) before latching a jug with some desperation. It was exciting!
.
Fun morning with a great (ever psyched) friend and back home in time for lunch. Very pleased to have finally done this one, and keen for more
|
||||||
Ven 14 Avr 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph - avec Lee Cujes | 46m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Repeat.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - avec Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 22m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat after 17 years. This was magic today.
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath - avec Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 28m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mucho hand jamming. Repeat - apparently!
|
||||||
Sam 5 Mars 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
24 | ★★ Waylander - avec Emil Mandyczewsky, Scott Boladeras | 38m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Trad crack - gear was in. One fall down low, then flashed the rest.
|
||||||
Mar 7 Juil 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Land of Green Navels - avec Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 30m, 10 | ★ Bon | |||
Took a cam this time and was much happier. Still a tricky proposition up the top. [2]
|
||||||
Dim 5 Juil 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Radios Appear - avec Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 25m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Three bolts and lots of trad. Haven't done anything like this for a while and if this was any harder I would have been flying.
|
||||||
21 | ★ Spangled Drongo - avec Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 20m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Thin crux 5 grades harder than the rest.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Sparrow - avec Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Nicest route of the day. Enjoyable and consistent all the way.
|
||||||
Jeu 28 Mai 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Land of Green Navels - avec Sammi | 30m, 10 | ||||
Thought this was Golliwog Grades. Wondered why there was a 8-10m runout. Fell in the horrible, sandy, wet mini-corner above the fixed carabiner beneath the small roof up top.
|
||||||
Mer 23 Avr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Last Man Standing | 25m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Don't be so hard on yourself Monty - this route is as good as any of the others. Nor does it feel squeezed in to me. I notice people are avoiding the grade 23 finish by going right to the anchors on SS Minnow.
|
||||||
27 | ★★ Permissability | 30m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Well well well! Hats off to Duncan Hunter. This thing is nails! I took some swooping falls onto cams and had one rip out. Did all moves up to last bolt, but got shut down on the bodylength of climbing to top this beast out.
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Grey Mist | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
I like to do this route once every 11 years. See you again in 2025.
|
||||||
Mar 22 Avr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Seamstress | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Blitzed off on a #1 wire on my first shot, a few metres shy of the top.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ Man Overboard | 26m | ★★★ Classique | |||
This old beast of a corner climbs sooo much better than it looks. Wow, super cool.
|
||||||
Mar 22 Avr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Titan I Am | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Carter photoshoot on this today. Climbed the business about 30 times The pics look amazing, you'll see.
|
||||||
Sam 19 Avr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Not All There | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
This was really nice, not the best to warm up on as the start is quite hard.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Windjammer | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Big wide crack action to finish the day. I felt bearded.
|
||||||
Ven 18 Avr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Icebird | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Big trad action. Climbs so nicely for a trad route. Tons of big wires. Gets a bit old school up top.
|
||||||
Sam 8 Fév 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Blowing Smoke | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
FFA. Placed all gear on lead. This was great, but as the only gear route at the cliff I don't imagine anyone will repeat it any time soon.
|
||||||
Sam 31 Août 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Titan I Am | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Finally! Super duper good, but I'm biased
|
||||||
Dim 31 Mars 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
26 | ★★ Eviction Order - avec Duncan | 15m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Brushed, chalked, pre-placed, 10mm dynabolts tightened up. Then sent packing.
|
||||||
Dim 31 Mars 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Australia's Hardest Climb - avec Sam | 15m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Maybe I'll make the news!
|
||||||
Sam 30 Mars 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Tenere | 28m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Better than it looks from the ground. I'm no crack climber, as the blood will now attest.
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24 | ★★ Barracouta - avec Erik | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | |||
This was an old dog from years ago. Super insanely happy to NOT fall off the top. Ended up dynoing off tiny monos to the clifftop and just stuck it.
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24 | ★★ Hate Mail - avec Neil | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | |||
A Monty route, climbed with Monty. Some of the best rock around up high, pretty impressive. You have to jam a cam in a critical pod which is your handhold which I actually thought was cool. Don't be put off by the rusty U-bolts, they're fine. Needs some stainless mallions added to anchor.
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16 15 to 16 | ★ Beside the Seaside (She sells sea shells (pitch 3)) - avec Johnny | 40m, 2 | Pas la peine | |||
"You'll be fine Sam! It's a 40m sport route. Take 20 quickdraws!" Actual bolt count = 2.
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Mar 13 Nov. 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
28 | FA ★★★ Massive Attack - avec JJ | 20m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
FFA. Freed this old project of Gareth & Adam's (thanks guys!) A few bits of trad to get to the roof, drop rope, then use second rope to climb the rest (all bolts). We removed all sharp edges so it's ready to go. Climbing might be ~27, but it's pretty adventurous and I doubt it'll get repeated anytime soon - unfortunately! [4]
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Dim 4 Nov. 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
21 | Every Day I Start To Ooze - avec JJ | 18m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Slime and filth.
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23 | Liquid Skin - avec JJ | 18m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Start was a vomitorium. You're lucky if you get to climb this dry I think. Overall, a bit weird.
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Ven 26 Oct. 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Lower Gorge Region Long Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars - avec Sam | 24m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Super fingercrack flake which has been worn smooth by 20+ years of constant traffic. So glorious. Van Halen climbed this.
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5.11b | ★★★ B3 - avec Sam | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Hardest I worked all day. Pretty epic trad route given 5 stars. Only 1 usable cam for the first 15m. Climbing high twenties sport routes is surely the key to being able to JUST get up something like this
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn - avec Sam | 24m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very cool handcrack flake, but I only had one handcrack-sized cam. Channel the inner Honnold.
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Sam 29 Sept 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Eastern Gorge Region Funk Rock City | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Headstone Surfer - avec Neil | 27m | ||||
Trad climbing! What the?
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Dim 1 Avr 2012 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
South Wall - Main | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Evolution | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Set off at 8:35am, topped at 1:10pm.
p1 15: 2nd. Junk.
p2 22: OS. Shitting myself on the Tibroesque trad slab
p3 21: 2nd. More scary slab shit.
p4 23: OS. Steep(ish) black pocket pitch, pumpy with pack on. Very good.
p5 22: 2nd. Slabby pocket corner pitch. Classic.
p6 24: OS. Orange gently overhung pocket pitch. Classic.
p7 23M1. Tried to free, fell, did the aid move, rest OS.
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Jeu 23 Juin 2011 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
West Face | ||||||
1 | ★★ West Track | 340m | ||||
Guided 65yo up this today, rope and all. Crisp winter day, how nice.
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Dim 21 Fév 2010 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Anonymous Arete | 18m | ||||
Dim 14 Fév 2010 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Trojan | 73m | ||||
Guiding - first two pitches, then rap off.
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Dim 25 Oct. 2009 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Remains Of The Day | 140m, 22 | ★★ Excellent | |||
p1+2 linked only as Ben got nailed by the first pitch.
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Dim 18 Oct. 2009 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Halfway House | ||||||
25 | ★★ Dagda | 20m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Linked in from Voluptuous. Dogged to remember moves.
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Jeu 1 Oct. 2009 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Hard start, fantastic finish. Needs a rebolt..
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ||||
Redpoint burn. Failed on crux.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ||||
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