Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Underdog - with Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | 20m, 9 | |||||
The crux is not where it would seem from the ground and it is very easy to end up pulling WAY harder moves... Very different than typical Rumney climb because of the rock.
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Scene of the Crime - with Lea, Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan | 15m, 5 | |||||
This is one where I was happy to have brought the stick clip. First bolt is a little high and above tricky moves over exposed ground.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis - with Lea, Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan | ||||||
Very fun and well bolted!
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5.10b | ★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication - with Lea, Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan | 25m, 10 | |||||
Short climber may have a tough time entering the overhang.
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5.11c ~5.11a | ★★ Cereal Killer - with Lea, Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan | 24m, 8 | |||||
Got a little bit of beta for the opening sequence which I didn't find too bad. Good belayer required. Thought the crux was the exit of the second roof. Easier but slightly runout afterwards.
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Crowd Pleaser - with DavidV | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Première longueur seulement.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 | Crack Addict - with Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 9 | |||||
preplaced draws
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.9 |
Charity Toad P2
- with
Kate Pechenkina, Jasson, Yarrow
2
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Is this how I log the traverse from Magic Haze P1 to White Toad P3?
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5.8 | ★ Charity Case - with Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 8 | |||||
Tied in, made one move, and then retreated to bathroom. 😫😫😫😫
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5.10b | Magic Helmet - with Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 5 | |||||
Many attempts, no reach top
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5.7 | Magic Daze - with Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 27m, 9 | |||||
Kate led P1 to ledge, then I traversed right to lead P3 of White Toad, making this "Magic Toad"?
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Sweet Polly Purebred — 2 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Very hard to read lol
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5.12a | ★ Peanut Man — 2 attempts | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Arugula, Arugula | ||||||
Failed to pull the roof. Again.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Would be nice to have one more bolt at the start, otherwise, still a classic.
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5.8 | Anchovie Caper | 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Was wet in places, so finished on the last two bolts of the 10b to the right. Might actually be a more interesting variation than the regular finish, but wants a couple long draws to prevent rope drag.
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5.7 | Half Nelson | Don't Bother | |||||
Still very sharp.
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5.6 | ★ Rainbow | 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Steep for a 5.6
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 |
★ Tipping Point P1
- with
David Gibbs
1
5.7
| 11 | Average | ||||
A hard step up to a fun ramble.
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Gold Digger - with David Gibbs | 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Some fun moves. Too bad it starts with a long scramble.
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10a Hard | ★ Arugula, Arugula - with David Gibbs | ★ Good | |||||
Didn't have enough strength for it today. Feeling the two prior days of climbing.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis - with David Gibbs | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Amazing route. Bolting is on the exciting side.
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5.8 | Anchovie Caper - with David Gibbs | 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Was a bit wet, so we had to make some tricky moves in the upper section.
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5.9 | ★ Men in White Suits - with David Gibbs | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Steep juggy fun. Just had enough juice left for it.
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ||||||
fabulous 5.8, unfortunately a little wet at the top this time
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | |||||
not my favorite. decent movement, but wanders a bit and is over chalked and polished.
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Stairway to Heaven | 24m, 12 | |||||
awesome climb. variety of movement (including some cracks!) leading to sweet climbing on the face at the top of the wall.
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | |||||
one of my favorites at rumney so far. top half has wonderful climbing. fell at first crux, rest of the route clean. still unsure what the intended sequence is... step high with the left side pull into a right hand gaston? crimp really hard up the middle?
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Seasame Street (Sesame Street) | ||||||
awesome variety of movement, and great view at the top
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Wed 12th Oct 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication (Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication) | 25m, 10 | |||||
varied movement, interesting moves
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Men in White Suits - with Kate, Fran, Yarrow | 5 | |||||
"This is hard for a 5.6." Gunks App showed Rainbow going up face of overhang, and route under it was too easy, so thought this must be Rainbow. Nope. Downclimbed to rest a few times but got it clean.
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5.5 5.6 | ★ Rainbow - with Kate | 7 | |||||
Cool climb, but easier than 5.6. Neat holds. Goes under overhang, not up face of overhang (Gunks App topo is wrong)
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5.8 | Anchovie Caper | 6 | |||||
Clean lead. Kind of sketch going over bulge.
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5.9 | Bonnie and Clyde | 15m, 4 | |||||
Many attempts on starting moves but couldn't do it. Looked really hard even for our best climber
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication | 25m, 10 | |||||
TR. Attempt Only. Struggled to make it to the first bolt.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ||||||
Crux for me was at the second bulge. Took almost 45 min. Needt to reclimb a part of it to re-clip alpine draw to the climber-side rope while lowering.
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Sat 26th Mar 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Arugula, Arugula | ★ Good | |||||
Initial roof is very fun. Don't hesitate, just go for it. The slab above is less sustained but still interesting.
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Sun 24th Oct 2021 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Come back for this. Has everything - dead point, finger jams, hand jams, mantles
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5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | |||||
1 hang
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5.10d | ★★ Goldbug | ★★ Very Good | |||||
#1 of the day
In retrospect my beta at the crux was suboptimal, but it worked. Used one of the lower gastons to go to a high crimp with right hand. Might have been better to use a higher gaston with left and right on arete. |
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5.10c | ★★ Sweet Polly Purebred | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Much weirdness at the crux. Would do again.
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Sun 25th Oct 2020 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.14a | Rocket Fuel | 37m | |||||
Had to pioneer some horrendous shortie beta to make the transition into Rocket Man. Definitely worth it to climb to the summit if you're sending!
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Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Know Ethics | ★★★ Classic | |||||
balance move in the middle. I matched my hands then moved to the left edge.
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Sat 2nd Nov 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Get It On - with Beatrice, Brandon | 5 | |||||
4th go, got caught in the rope with the long draw extended even further the two times before.
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Sun 20th Oct 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.11d 5.12a | ★ Peanut Man - with Brandon | 9 | |||||
Need to figure out different beta for that gaston move.
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Mon 14th Oct 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Crowd Pleaser (Crowd Pleaser P1)
- with
Jesse T.
1
5.7
lead by
Jesse T.
| 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Huge shoutout to the guy who suggested this linkup with 'Tipping Point'. The first pitch was meh. But the second pitch was a little bit of everything and the view at the top was awesome!
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Mon 14th Oct 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Toxic Gumbo | 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had to squeeze one more climb in before leaving Rumney.
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Mon 14th Oct 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Managed to get it done in 6 parsecs.
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5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Almost lost it due to a mix up down low, but was able to pull it together to make it up clean.
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Sun 13th Oct 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Men in White Suits - with Andy Gnarr | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My weak slab climber arms couldn't hold me, a theme of this weekend.
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5.10b | ★ Fish Corner - with Andy Gnarr | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The first move is hard, then the rest has a few fun moves
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5.9 | ★ Green Mile - with Andy Gnarr | ★★ Very Good | |||||
I was tired and hungry, and the route needed to be cleaned before I could go to lunch
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5.9 | ★ Men in White Suits | 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sustained overhanging jug haul!
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5.10b | ★ Fish Corner | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun little boulder problem at the start, but mellow climbing above to the anchor.
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5.9 | ★ Green Mile | ★ Good | |||||
Low crux to the first bolt, would recommend a stick clip if you aren't comfortable leading 5.9.
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Sat 28th Sep 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | |||||
failed a lot on top rope and then it started raining and I bailed
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5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | |||||
fell twice, got to top. traverse around arete was super scary
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5.9 | ★★ Rock Du Jours | ||||||
scary but no falls, 3 people caterpillar first pitch then 2 people top rope second
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Sun 9th Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Toxic Gumbo | 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great and beautiful climb! Last move was the crux for me!
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Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Beautiful climb!!
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Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | |||||
Went up twice, couldn’t commit to the end otherwise beautiful climb
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Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
One of the best 5.8 sport routes I have climbed! Very long (use a 70m rope to be sure), sustained and varied in movement.
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5.7 | ★★ The Big Easy | 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun. Only did the first pitch. Accidentally went on the Bourbon Street (5.10c) for second pitch. Bailed off of that.
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5.10b | ★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication - with Cynthia Kett, Alex Norris | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
An excellent overhanging route with some variety of movement Start with a couple of delicate moves until you meet a roof. Use the pinchy undercling to pull over and dance your way up some slab until you meet an overhanging headwall. Collect yourself and then proceed up the overhung, power-endurance finish on gigantic holds.
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Sun 2nd Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 | Crack Addict | 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun, but was really wet. Had to take before pulling out of the dihedral.
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5.6 | ★ Model Citizen - with Debby Chiu | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun sport multipitch. First pitch is vertical. Belay from a small nook after you top out. 2nd pitch is super easy slab to an anchor below a big ledge. Rap station should use rings instead of those sketchy weird J hooks.
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5.10a | ★★ Crowd Pleaser | 9 | Average | ||||
Way harder than a 5.7. I got spooked by the spinning, rusted 3rd bolt and downclimbed.
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5.8 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
| 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only did the first pitch. Fun slab climbing. 70m rope recommended
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Green Mile | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Thoguht this was 5.8 -- so kept describing as a hard 5.8... turns out it is 5.9! Was worried after seeing Phil have difficulty in the upper section -- but went smoothly for me.
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5.10a | ★ Scene of the Crime | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I found the steep lower section very pumpy -- managed to pull through, but took a good long rest on the ledge once I got there. No problem with the technical/thin finish.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Classic | |||||
I'm not+ sure any move on this is 5.8 -- but it is an unrelenting series of 5.7/5.7+ moves for about 25m after the initial slab is finished.
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5.7 |
★★ The Big Easy (The Big Easy P1)
1
5.7
| 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lots of fun -- and surprisingly steep in places, for a 5.7, but with huge jugs to make it 5.7.
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (fat man wall) | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Super-Size Me | 9m, 5 | |||||
Putting up an easy climb for Rachel.
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I really enjoyed this one -- varied and interesting climbing.
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5.9 |
★★ Rock Du Jours (Rock Du Jours P1)
1
5.9
| ★ Good | |||||
Upper pitch was closed (raptors). First pitch seems a bit easier than 5.9 -- perhaps 5.7+ or maybe 5.8. Decent, but not great, climbing.
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 |
★★ Crowd Pleaser (Crowd Pleaser P1)
1
5.7
| 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
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5.7 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
1
5.7
| 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
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5.7 | Crack Addict | 9 | Average | ||||
The crack was dripping wet -- but the rock had enough texture that it still climbed just fine.
Once done the opening section, rest of the slab is a bit dull. |
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5.6 |
★ Model Citizen (Model Citizen P1)
1
5.6
| 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
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Mon 29th Apr 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.11d 5.12a | ★ Peanut Man - with Cameron | 9 | |||||
Gaston move felt hard and low percent, fell there two times.
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Mon 8th Apr 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.12a | ★ Get A Grip - with Paul | 5 | |||||
Second go. Soft.
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Mon 27th Aug 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | |||||
Pratiquement aucun pied pendant le crux. Épeurant!
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Sat 25th Aug 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | |||||
J'ai pas réussi à passer le crux. Je manquais de reach.
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Sun 29th Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Cereal Killer | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
highest flash so far
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Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Toady Dreams | ★ Good | |||||
Climbed the 5.9 variant -- but with extra traversing and leaning to unclip draws.
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5.7 | ★★ Crowd Pleaser | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lead P1, followed P2.
Fun climbing. A lovely wiggly quartz vein shows up on P2. |
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5.7 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
1
5.7
| 11 | ★ Good | ||||
First pitch (labelled as crux) is nowhere near the book grade of 5.8. Maybe, barely, 5.7.
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Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★ Good | |||||
Fun climbing, but seemed very soft for 5.8.
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5.7 |
★★ The Big Easy (The Big Easy P1)
1
5.7
| 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Physical for a 5.7, but fun.
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5.8 | ★★ Toxic Gumbo | 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got a sequence wrong, and couldn't recover.
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5.10a | ★ Arugula, Arugula | ||||||
Didn't want to burn myself out trying to pull the roof. Not my style at all.
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Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Venus Wall | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ The Wimpy-Gilman Ridge | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Still fun, still haven't lead it.
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Fri 6th Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | |||||
needed beta at block ledge after big block was wet. 3 takes was cruising
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5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | |||||
fell at crux due to wet shoes
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5.10c | ★★ Sweet Polly Purebred | ||||||
would've been onsight. drag killed me
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Fri 6th Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Seasame Street (Sesame Street) | ||||||
felt like the easiest climb so far today
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5.10d | ★★ Clusterphobia | ||||||
approx 6 takes had trouble pulling roof
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Sat 31st Mar 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Clusterphobia | ★★★ Classic | |||||
on Matt's draws. on my 2nd burn
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Sat 9th Sep 2017 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Seasame Street | ★★★ Classic | |||||
great climb
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Sun 18th Jun 2017 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||