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Horseyard Crag

22

Seasonality

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Summary

Beginner's Trad playground with foot access to set-up top rope anchors around boulders (check they are stable first) also for many of the climbs.

Description

Broken looking cliff with large ledges. Shady early on a summer morning and sunny in winter most of the day.

Access issues

none

Approach

150m right of the Quarry wall opposite the horse yard of Glenrowan horse stables

Where to stay

Alice Springs

Ethic

Leave it looking how you found it. No Bolts!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts below a scoop just right of flake block, thin moves.Up to and through the scoop, exiting left.

Fingery start up the right trending flake with adequate feet to the first ledge, then straight up with more fun up a crack with large triangular flake on the right. Continue until out. Plenty of good spots for placing gear and a good boulder above if you'd prefer to top rope.

Early crux will have you leaning back. Protect it well as it looks easier than it actually is. Fine once you've got the sequence worked out but until then can make you feel like a moron. Much easier and enjoyable climbing once beyond the crux.

Climb up the bulge between IM and Dreamtime towards and then following the thin crack. Keep moving through the early crux and enjoy a warm down after this as you continue up much easier rock. A bold lead due to sparse/non-existent protection early.

L facing crack and cnr in the middle of the crag. Good beginners lead with heaps of pro. 18m

A couple of metres right of TV and very worthwhile with a thoughtful start to gain the first ledge. Pick your line over the small roof and continue for an enjoyable sustained climb.

A great face climb perfect for the grade. Starting a few metres left of Butterfly Lost, climb towards the small dish with slight overhang and then continue up the rib through another slight overhang (somewhat of a second crux) and just keep on going through easier climbing above. Protection thin with ground falls possible if falling from the top of the second overhang.

Look for the 'V' formation. Head towards it and then keep going more or less directly up.

A great trad route for beginners with plenty of options for placing gear and good rests between nicely exposed moves.

As named, a delightful ending to LWC by taking a few steps left once on the final ledge of LWC and then up through the rightward trending scoop

Heading up the short wall right of Mixed Emotions this is a steep climb that doesn't give you much rest, while there is good gear, finding and placing it will seep your strength away. Start up the right tending crack in the middle of the wall, after the crack continue up the blocky section to finish at the right hand end of the top of the wall. A harder direct finish awaits through the middle of the wall, which was simply too hard for this old fella on the day.

FA: Krish Seewraj & Warwick Beever, 2005

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Fri 26 May
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