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East Face All Trad climbing 13 routes in sector

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 5
13
YDS
5.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c

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Routes

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Grade Route

Approach via Crags Trail:

2
5.10 R Maiden Voyage Mixed trad 1

Finish on P2 of The Good Book.

FFA: Lincoln Freese or Craig Ballenger

3
5.10 I-5 Mixed trad 1

Finish on P2 of The Good Book.

4
5.10a ★ The Good Book Mixed trad 3, 1

Pro to 3".

Approach via Root Creek:

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6
5.11c R ★★ Following Spirit Mixed trad 800ft, 6, 14

Pro to 4".

  1. 100' (5.9)

  2. 100' (5.11)

  3. 80' (5.10 R) Run out on 5.9 terrain.

  4. 150' (5.10+ R) Run out on 5.8 terrain.

  5. 230' (5.8 R)

  6. (5.9)

FFA: Tim Loughlin, Todd Burrill, Pete Pupator & Peter Chesko

7
5.10 The Consolation Prize Trad

FFA: Tim Loughlin & Byron Cross

8
5.10a ★ Castle Blaster / The Oregonian Mixed trad 900ft, 5

Pro to 4". Guides disagree on grades (5.8 to 5.10) and number of pitches (5 to 8).

FFA: Charles "Rockchuck" Porter

9
5.10d R ★★★ East Face / The Dike Route Mixed trad 1100ft, 8, 8

Most pitches are PG13 / R. An area classic, but long run-outs, old bolts, tricky placements, and a 4th class walk off should deter anyone not solid at the grade. Pro to 3".

  1. 165' (5.9 R)

  2. 160' (5.8)

  3. 90' (5.10c)

  4. 95' (5.10b)

  5. 110' (5.10d)

  6. 100' (5.9+)

  7. 150' (5.9)

  8. 200'? (5.0)

Descend by downclimbing the 'Regular Route' on the SW face.

FFA: John Bald, Stan Miller, Peter Chesko & Byron Cross, 1991

10
5.12a R Brothel Trad

FFA: Jake Whittaker, Tim Dolan & Tim Loughlin

11
5.11+ Temporary Setback Trad

FFA: Tim Loughlin

12
5.10d ★★★ Golden Flow Mixed trad 150ft, 2

Pro from micro nuts to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz, 2006

13
5.11a ★★★ Lunar Flow Mixed trad 4

Pro to 1".

FFA: Ian Katz, 2002

14
5.12c ★★★ Castle Corner Trad

Pro to 3".

FA: Jerry Sublett

FFA: Ian Katz, 2002

15
5.12a ★★★ Year of the Dragon Mixed trad 80ft, 4

Pro from micro nuts to 2".

FFA: Ian Katz & Styles Larsen, 2002

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Redwood Burl: A Climber's Guide to Northwest California

Author(s): Evan Wisheropp

Date: 2022

ISBN: 978-1-938393-46-4

Wolverine:
A compact yet comprehensive guide, Redwood Burl introduces climbers and boulderers to the extensive vertical opportunities in northwest California.
  • Provides approach times
  • Features beautiful color photos, helpful maps and icons depicting sun and rain aspects
Buy
ⓘ
Golden State Bouldering

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations
Buy
ⓘ
Climbing California's Fourteeners

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit
Buy
ⓘ

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5.10d R ★★★ East Face
5.12c ★★★ Castle Corner

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