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description

  1. 130ft (5.7) Jam up the right-facing dihedral with insecure footholds on slick, polished rock. Belay at the tree.

  2. 50ft (3rd class) Scramble up 3rd class to a large manzanita at the base of a wide crack.

  3. 80ft (5.6) Wide crack climbing leads to face climbing. Continue up and right to belay at an alcove on a ledge.

  4. 130ft (5.5) Easy slab climbing leads to a large ledge.

  5. 80ft (5.6) Easy slab climbing on knobs leads to crux liebacking up a flake. Continue up to another large ledge and belay at the tree.

  6. 90ft (5.6) Follow the crack up and right. Belay from cracks atop the buttress. A fun 5.8 alternate finish follows the thin flakes and broken cracks up left before traversing back right across the steepest rock directly below the summit.

Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4.

Pro to 2".

Route history

Jun 1965First free ascent: Yvon Chouinard & Ruth Schneider

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 37.73102, -119.61891

Grade citation

5.7 Assigned grade
5.10a [5.9 - 5.10a] ++ grAId
5.6 Rock Climbing Yosemite's Select
5.6 Rock Climbing Yosemite Free Climbs
5.7 Romain Wacziarg
5.7 Yosemite Ultra Classics
5.7, 5.0, 5.6, 5.5, 5.6, 5.6 Hard Landin' Brandon

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 64 from 68 ratings.

Difficulty - 5.7

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

5.7

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 35
Flash 2
Red point 2
Tick 36
Attempt 3
Target 2

Comment keywords

crux hard tired great super fun good awesome nice lovely classic beautiful awkward roof slippery rest polished crack interesting flake short face

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781735608006

Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.

  • Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
  • Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
  • Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos

Author(s): Erik Sloan

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781467596916

A selective guidebook describing over 350 big wall routes in Yosemite Valley, covering Ribbon Fall, El Capitan, Camp 4 Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall, Rhombus Wall, Arches Wall, Washington Column, Mt. Watkins, Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Porcelain Wall, Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap, Panorama Wall, Jericho Wall, FireFall Wall, Glacier Point, 9 O’clock Wall, Sentinel Rock, Lost Brother, The Cathedrals, Wall of Ages, Leaning Tower, Fifi Buttress, and Valley West area.

Author(s): Erik Sloan and Marek Jakubowski

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781532379284

A selective guidebook describing over 750 of the very best free rock climbing routes in Yosemite Valley, from 5.4 to 5.14 (F3 to F8c), with everything from single pitch routes to 1,000m+ routes on El Cap.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 25 May
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