An aesthetic alternative to the standard gully used to reach the summit. On a clear day you have uninterrupted views of Mt Baker through to Rainier. The rock is bomber and the location incredible.
Gain the ridge at the obvious notch. Solo for as long as your whole party feels comfortable and then rope up to protect the upper pitches. Can be done in 1-8 Pitches depending on your methods. Some scrambling between belay platforms helps to reduce rope drag and the number of pitches required.
Rappel the gulley to skiers right of the ridge. This is the standard climb and is often solo'd at class 4 so be wary of sending loose rocks down. Twin 30m ropes are fine.
Plenty of natural pro, BD #0.5 to #2 to zipper it up. Glacier gear for the approach via Fisher Chimneys (III) or Sulphide glacier (II).
Car to car in a day is possible if you are unable to get a camping pass. However, be wary of down climbing the Chimney's at night.
This is an absolute classic in the region!
There is no known route history.
5.4 | Assigned grade |
5.4 | ★★★DaneW |
Author(s): Jim Nelson, Tom Sjolseth and David Whitelaw
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9781680510461
Author(s): Jeff Smoot
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9781493056439
Kim on ★★★ Southeast Ridge 5.4 - 68586602_682279972316845_3814736746252337152_n.jpg
★★★ Southeast Ridge 5.4 - 69331528_2261148900650600_4729038994698928128_n.jpg
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