Bay just north of Orchestra cave and Boglesheugh, varies from super steep roof routes on the left to somewhat less steep wall routes on the right. It offers well equipped sport routes with good positive, athletic climbing. Although there are some easier routes they are generally of poor quality and require a knowledagble belayer due to the close proximity of the ground. As such the crag can not be recommended for the inexperinced.
Don't walk through the private shooting range from the north.
Approach notes
The routes are on the north wall of the deep inlet immediately north of the Orchestra cave. Park as Orchestra cave, please park with respect to the locals on the street, do not park vans on the grass verge. Findon is a very small village and we do not wish to upset the locals by filling up the village with badly parked cars. Think about sharing lifts if possible or you could meet in Portlethan Asda and take one car from there.
Approach as for the cave but once in the field cross it slightly north to follow the field edge overlooking the deep inlet to the sorth. Now descend the steep grass at the back of the inlet (worn path) to where an insitu knotted rope can be descended hand over hand down a steep slab. Precarious when wet and be sure to check condition of rope before doing so. Then walk round to the base of the routes.
Recently developed hard sport and bouldering crag.
This crag does not have a description. Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?
If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.
Author(s): Andy Nisbet
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9781907233159
A comprehensive sport climbing guidebook for Scotland, including 3 dry tooling areas, describing over 1,300 routes across a wide range of grades from F3 to F9a.
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!