Galactic cliff Rock climbing 11 routes in cliff

Gringos in the limelight was set up over a couple of weekends in Spring and first climbed on 18 March 2012, by Patrick Andrey, Travis Kale and David Ascott. The route is fully bolted and does not require additional gear (except maybe a sling at pitch 3 if you wish to shorten the run out). All hard moves can be avoided by pulling on gear, however, on pitch 2 you have to climb around 7b obligatoire to reach the next bolt (unless you have a veeeery long stick clip). This route starts with a steep 7c, combining the first three pitches of Exponential Starter to one epic 38m pitch. Another 7 pitches follow all the way to the true summit of Takun. Pitch 2 and Pitch 5 are the cruxes. Both pitches still await a redpoint ascent. Pitch 6 is one of the coolest 7ens in Malaysia: a stunning and super exposed dihedral 150m off the ground! Be aware of the last pitch (4a) having razor sharp flakes and above the last sling loose blocks. At the last sling traverse right, DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP! You can walk down or rappel. It is recommended not to rappel this route since it is continuously overhanging and needs back-clipping. Better head to the right for 30 m (towards campground) and look for rappel bolts. This rappel line follows David and Friend’s new route down to a large ledge from where you can rappel to the ground skipping the first 3 traversing pitches. You need two 60 meter ropes!

Classic & require full day commitment.

check-points (roughly)

• 7 ish, base of climb
• 11 ish, top of p4
• 3 pm, at top of p8
• Rap down by 5 latest, don't get lost on the way out, aim for the barking if you are lost.

* make sure you have phone, and local emergency contact!!!

12 short, 14 long quikdraws minimum