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Muzzerone

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Summary

Great seacliff climbing on perfect limestone!

Description

The rock climbing at Muzzerone offers some dramatic sea cliff climbing close to the town of La Spezia. These good quality limestone cliffs are easily accessible and there is plenty of rock climbing available across all grades.

The sea cliffs of Muzzerone are made up of 18 separate limestone crags, which have recently been re-bolted. The routes are both single pitch and multi-pitch routes up to 270m long. However most of the multi-pitch routes are 2 or 3 pitches long. The style of climbing ranges from slabs, vertical walls to overhanging routes across a wide range of climbing grades. The Muzzerone area has always been popular due to its dramatic landscape, the presence of the sea, and easy access to some fantastic sea cliff rock climbing.

The best time to climb in Muzzerone is autumn and spring, but it is possible to climb during the winter months too as the majority of the crags face south west.

Approach

Muzzerone is situated 15 km from La Spezia. Take the LA SPEZIA highway exit. Drive towards Portovenere and turn right before reaching Le Grazie (sign posted "Palestra di Roccia"). Follow this for 4km to a fork in the road: turn left and descend past several hairpin bends to Muzzerone. This can also be reached on foot via the panoramic sea paths from Portovenere (path No. 1 or 1a in 30 minutes).

Where to stay

Ettore is a wonderful host at the "Rifugio Muzzerone", 20 min hike to the main crags. (https://www.facebook.com/rifugio.muzzerone)

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Davide Battistella

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9788898609956

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing on the sea cliffs at Muzzerone and Levante Ligure, covering over 600 routes across a wide range of grades.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 7 Jun
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