Ascents in Berdorf by Tobias Auth

One hang. Pumpier than I remember. Not well warmed up.

Surprised myself with an almost retroflash. Fell on the damp top slopers. Everything else bone dry today.

2nd go of the day.

Send/ "onsight", 7 years after the first try.

Retroflash/ basically onsight. Awesome route still. Only just made it. Happy to still never having clipped that piton. Friction almost back to normal. Hoping for better conditions for next time.

2nd go resend after getting the right beta for the top crux. First crux probably significantly easier for me because I can reach the thumbcatchy hold statically from the sidepull hueco.

Top crux beta: [Far left gaston into sidepull-pocket, adjust feet for layback, clip, rest right hand, right crimp of double slot for right hand (don't match this hold later), left foot onto big foothold rail, left crimp further up, right foot high or pull-up to get foot even higher, lockoff again to reach into the slot on the ledge with right hand.]

Gave it a go between Basti's gos. Some hangs to the top.

The holds just below the mantle were quite slippery from the humidity and the lack of brush usage. Got the sequence wrong and took a fall. Somehow caught the rope with my right heel and got flipped. No wall-impact thankfully.

Putting draws in. One hang at the hardish sloper clip position. Couldn't do the top crux. First route of the trip with good friction. Feels like climbing. Awesome.

Hopped on this because someone had a top rope in. Neat slab and very tough overhanging arête! Could not link many moves. Hard to figure out where to position yourself on the arête.

resend

TR attempt in Leo's strong session.

First route of the trip. Average humidity ~98%. Top 3 sweatiest warm-up ever.

#repeat Still great, 3 star laybacking in the top half.

#repeat but used the big flake at the height of the 2nd crux. Tried the moves more straight ahead, after building a top rope and got these after 2 or 3 trieds. Would be fun to re-send properly next time. Running out of doable routes in Berdorf though.

#repeat

Warmed-up on the ground and tried it as first route if the day. Tried the long move statically but went for the bigger, bad (sloping pocket) hold with my right (20 times) instead of the mono with the left – as someone told me later, mono first should work better.

#repeat

Didn't feel like I was climbing well but it was enough to not fall. #repeat

Found two wet holds.

Re-send go. Fell on last move.

Resend/ #repeat 4 years after. Feels like a different route now. Classic!

#repeat Finally some sandstone again! Great fun.

Very cool and techy corner! Fun warm-up. Actually glad that I didnt fall. The left wall was quite damp at half height.

This route was in a horrible condition today. Not sure if its destroyed yet or if a brush could fix it. Not surprised that locals started to put little banners into the first bolts saying "Brush me harder!". #repeat

The fragile rock made this exciting for the wrong reasons. Didnt really want to commit to the lock off above the bulge but eventually did it. Broke a foothold higher up. Bolts look suspicious too but maybe the new topo will clarify what these are. Will improve with traffic Id guess.

Pretty epic! The non-eliminate felt massively run-out in one spot. Balancy top part with the right-hand edge. After not climbing on sandstone for some time I wasnt used to these tiny, sloping footholds. Grade at the time was 7a.

Still confused which chain is the right one.

In the sun it‘s more like a mid 5. One block looks potenially dangerous. Otherwise good!

Still fun! #repeat #nochalk

Worthwhile and better than other low-grade routes at this crag. #barefoot

Ego booster. Felt very easy today. After doing "Tempête" every hold felt like a jug.

Skipped first lock off move. Took a big fall in the crux. Checked out all moves but no power and endurance left. Right middle finger a little sore from Tempête. Maybe some more easier routes first to get used to sandstone again.

Top-Rope up for Katrin. #repeat

Good, average Berdorf climbing. Used the arête.. Felt quite easy like that. Maybe one awkward spot.

2nd go send. First crux way more relaxed now and second crux doable with correct beta and tape on the right middle finger for the sharp, deep mono. Super good route! Still tough for the grade and hard on the fingers. #sportRP

Really good, technical route. Gave it everything onsight but fell because of unrefined beta close to the chain. Monos and a crucial 2 1/2 finger sloping crimp.

#repeat after Sophia tried it in TR.

#VVV

Getting to the actual route involves a short boulder with funky moves (at least that's what I did OS) onto a big ledge. I'm not into stickclipping that much but if I were to repeat this, I'd like to have the 2nd bolt preclipped. The route above is interesting with a balancy crux on small holds. A little on/ off but worth doing!

I overlooked this for a long time because you belay off the trail but it's really good! Interesting layback section onto a nice slab.

#repeat

#repeat