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Ascents in Finale Ligure by Lukas

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Showing all 18 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Finale Ligure
Boragni Skarafonia
6a+ ~6b+ Il Salto dell'Acciuga - with Nico, Flavia, Anna S. Sport 17m Good
Easy (~5b/c) start, then gets progressively harder until you have to do 5-7 moves on painful two-finger pockets with feet that are only getting worse, until a jug saves you. Very tough for the grade, I vote 6b+.

 
6a www.ilbanditoelaprincipessa.it - with Nico, Flavia, Anna Sport 18m Very Good
Super nice route for taller people. Big moves between big holds. Crux towards the top.

 
5c Oggi Sposi - with Nico, Flavia, Anna Sport 19m Classic
Retroflash. Still super nice, if getting a bit polished on the obvious footholds. Crux is at the top of the crack.

 
5c 110 E Lode - with Nico, Flavia, Anna Sport 15m Average
Long bolt spacing. Not for beginners. OK route. Anchor is rusty and needs replacement.

 
Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Finale Ligure
Valle di Rian Cornei Placconata centrale di Rian Cornei
6a ~6a+ Yama - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 35m Classic
Super nice, very long old-school route following a crack. Some parts of the crack have a bit too many plants in them, but otherwise very nice. Starting dihedral is really interesting as well.

Grade super sandbagged, this is at least a 6a+, if not a 6b everywhere else.

 
6a+ ~6b Linea logica - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 20m, 8 Average
Had to try the start ~4 times, onsighted the rest. Start felt extremely hard for me for 6a+. I recommend doing the 5c start variation, which makes this into a very fun, beautiful slab route along huge holes.

 
6a Hard Dobro - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
Very nice slab, though hard for the grade if you're not used to the rock. Third bolt currently loose, recommended to do the 5c left of it first, then hanging a super long draw into the fourth bolt. Ground fall potential in case of third bolt failure, and the climbing above it can throw you off.

 
5c È la tua - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 15m, 8 Average
Not bad, but a bit dirty towards the top.

 
Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Finale Ligure
Valle di Rian Cornei Ciappo delle conche Settore superiore
6b+ Clitorio - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 15m Very Good
Nice overhang with marginal, but sufficient holds. Topout more difficult, bad pinches and more runout than the rest of the route. Fell once in the overhang but then did all the moves after looking at the wall more closely.

Top is rusty, but seemed barely OK. I left a new aluminium carabiner.

 
6a+ Saluti da Mururoa - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 18m Classic
Nice easy slab start, then some cruxy endurance moves around the tufa, with a perfect top-out on sharp pinches.

Top is rusty, but seemed barely OK. Nico left a new maillon.

 
6b Der alte Barde - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 10m Good
One hang above the tufa. Slabby section there is very thin and almost devoid of hand and foot holds.

 
6a Apita o comboio - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 10m Good
Nice route, but went to the top anchor on the right, not on the left, as it is marginally better, but still extremely rusty. Needs to be replaced.

 
5c Tilita - with Anna, Flavia, Nico Sport 10m Good
Don't climb this before the anchor is replaced. The chain is extremely rusted, even more so than the others in this sector. Route is otherwise quite nice.

 
Thu 6th Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure
Rocca Carpanea Grotta dell'Edera
6b Bombolo - with Nico Sport 15m
Super cool

 
Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure
Boragni Skarafonia
6a+ Il Ritorno di Andreix - with Nico Sport 19m Good
Remember flashing this, but not sure. Got a huge flapper when my feet slipped, but clung on.

 
Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure
Boragni Bastionata Boragni Settore Sinistro
6b Change the World - with Nico Sport 40m Very Good
Nice route, but felt like I got heatstroke midway through and had to retreat.

 
Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure
Boragni Skarafonia
5c Oggi Sposi - with Nico Sport 19m Classic
Remember this as being very beautiful.

 
Sun 2nd Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure
Valle Aquila Tre Frati
6a Mittelnaht - with Nico Sport 20m, 6 Classic
Good slab climbing to summit the pillar.

 

Showing all 18 ascents.

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