Showing all 18 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Boragni Skarafonia | ||||||
6a+ ~6b+ | ★★ Il Salto dell'Acciuga - with Nico, Flavia, Anna S. | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Easy (~5b/c) start, then gets progressively harder until you have to do 5-7 moves on painful two-finger pockets with feet that are only getting worse, until a jug saves you. Very tough for the grade, I vote 6b+.
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6a | ★★ www.ilbanditoelaprincipessa.it - with Nico, Flavia, Anna | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super nice route for taller people. Big moves between big holds. Crux towards the top.
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5c | ★★ Oggi Sposi - with Nico, Flavia, Anna | 19m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Retroflash. Still super nice, if getting a bit polished on the obvious footholds. Crux is at the top of the crack.
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5c | ★ 110 E Lode - with Nico, Flavia, Anna | 15m | Average | |||
Long bolt spacing. Not for beginners. OK route. Anchor is rusty and needs replacement.
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Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle di Rian Cornei Placconata centrale di Rian Cornei | ||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★★ Yama - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super nice, very long old-school route following a crack. Some parts of the crack have a bit too many plants in them, but otherwise very nice. Starting dihedral is really interesting as well.
Grade super sandbagged, this is at least a 6a+, if not a 6b everywhere else. |
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6a+ ~6b | ★ Linea logica - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
Had to try the start ~4 times, onsighted the rest. Start felt extremely hard for me for 6a+. I recommend doing the 5c start variation, which makes this into a very fun, beautiful slab route along huge holes.
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6a Hard | ★★ Dobro - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice slab, though hard for the grade if you're not used to the rock. Third bolt currently loose, recommended to do the 5c left of it first, then hanging a super long draw into the fourth bolt. Ground fall potential in case of third bolt failure, and the climbing above it can throw you off.
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5c | ★★ È la tua - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 15m, 8 | Average | |||
Not bad, but a bit dirty towards the top.
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Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle di Rian Cornei Ciappo delle conche Settore superiore | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Clitorio - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice overhang with marginal, but sufficient holds. Topout more difficult, bad pinches and more runout than the rest of the route. Fell once in the overhang but then did all the moves after looking at the wall more closely.
Top is rusty, but seemed barely OK. I left a new aluminium carabiner. |
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6a+ | ★★ Saluti da Mururoa - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice easy slab start, then some cruxy endurance moves around the tufa, with a perfect top-out on sharp pinches.
Top is rusty, but seemed barely OK. Nico left a new maillon. |
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6b | ★ Der alte Barde - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 10m | ★ Good | |||
One hang above the tufa. Slabby section there is very thin and almost devoid of hand and foot holds.
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6a | ★ Apita o comboio - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice route, but went to the top anchor on the right, not on the left, as it is marginally better, but still extremely rusty. Needs to be replaced.
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5c | ★ Tilita - with Anna, Flavia, Nico | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Don't climb this before the anchor is replaced. The chain is extremely rusted, even more so than the others in this sector. Route is otherwise quite nice.
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Thu 6th Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Rocca Carpanea Grotta dell'Edera | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Bombolo - with Nico | 15m | ||||
Super cool
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Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Boragni Skarafonia | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Il Ritorno di Andreix - with Nico | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Remember flashing this, but not sure. Got a huge flapper when my feet slipped, but clung on.
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Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Boragni Bastionata Boragni Settore Sinistro | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Change the World - with Nico | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route, but felt like I got heatstroke midway through and had to retreat.
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Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Boragni Skarafonia | ||||||
5c | ★★ Oggi Sposi - with Nico | 19m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Remember this as being very beautiful.
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Sun 2nd Jun 2019 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Aquila Tre Frati | ||||||
6a | ★★ Mittelnaht - with Nico | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good slab climbing to summit the pillar.
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Showing all 18 ascents.