Ascents in Japan by Alex Rogers

Short, steeper than it looks, with delicate fingery crux. Well protected so a good lead for new to the grade. Took one fall.

Took three tries to get through this - one move wonder, but interestingly technical. Scary descent.

Nice route, got the onsight but only just... steeper than it looks at the crux

My first 5.10 in the wild for a long time, but its only a few moves long, a highball boulder problem with 2 bolts. Nice climb for all that.

Short but sweet. Juggy first section leads to interesting crux - great pocket hold out right and looong reach for next holds. Will lead it next time.

Interesting and sometimes awkward climb. I used the tree at the top which makes it easier - next time I'll try without.

A Joyama classic, excellent route. I led the easy pitches, my partner did the 5.10a crux and the last (somewhat runout) pitch.

backed off this - crux jam stripped skin off my hands

Fell off at the top, did it with a rest

Great climb, thin & sustained, tough at the top.

Several versions of P1, and P2 & 3 only. ONe day would like to do the whole route.

Up the gully / groove to the right of Pumpkin Coach. A nice climb spoiled by very old and mostly psychological pro - badly needs re-equipping.

Descent Options: You could lower off a bunch of old manky tat attached precariously to rusty bolts and fraying ropes like I did - or pull your rope and step over to the top of Cinderella and lower off that. Anchors badly need replacing.

Good fun

Classic old-school climb high up over the valley and following the obvious line of weaknesses. Rock a little variable, but fine where it counts. Mostly trad placements, but with one bolted belay station and 3 or 4 bolts where it is hard to find pro. Great views & positions. I'd be happy to lead all pitches, but the 5.8 squeeze chimney would be a bit exciting as no pro inside for 6-7m, and its hard if you don't have good technique (I don't...)

Good intro to the area, it is a trade route and always crowded. Well protected, good for the new leader.

Nice line, good fun.

easy, good clean fun