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Ascents in Mallorca by Kai

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Showing all 17 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Thu 14th Jun 2018 - Puig St. Martí
5 3c - 4a El Niño (Unknown) - with Inga Sport 8m, 3 Good
Compared to the other routes quite new bolts. Short.

 
5+ 5c Tio Listo - with Inga Sport 18m, 6 Good
Don't know why Rockfax gives two stars.

 
6a Atila - with Inga Sport 18m, 6 Good
Start is a little bit polished. Last moves are the most difficult ones at tiny crimps.

 
6- 4c Pedorretas - with Inga Sport 26m, 7 Good
There are two ways to climb the route. My variant through the big hole with a small overhang before was never a 4. The right variant next to the tree is also more difficult than registered but easier than what I've climbed.

 
6- 5a 7 Vidas y una Más - with Inga Sport 26m, 7
Awkward crux below the tree. Upper part much better and worth to fight the crux.

 
5c New Lower-Off - with Inga Sport 25m, 5
Steepest route of the West face. A direct but not very logic line. Nice jugs!

 
Tue 12th Jun 2018 - Puig St. Martí
4c 100 Duros - with Inga Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
Better and easier than 'La mosca'.

 
6b 6b/b+ Langostino - with Inga Sport 12m, 4
Inga had the guide book and I thought it would be 'Tufolandia'. Now it's clear why it felt harder than a 6a.

 
5c 5a - c Alzheimer - with Inga Sport 25m, 8
Slipped at the crux but didn't fall. Crux at a flake with super side holds.

 
4c La Mosca - with Inga Sport 25m, 9 Good
Hard for the grade.

 
Sat 9th Jun 2018 - Puig St. Martí
5c Rata pinyada Sport 12m Good
I scrambled along the 'West Face' and didn't see one bolt. After some time I decided to climb directly to the top. Something in the 4th grade or less. Then I enjoyed the sunrise and the great views. Searching for a way back to trail I decided to climb down an easy dihedral with a wide crack and found the lower off of this route, I think. Climbed it down with running shoes. Really no issue. Not sure if the grade matches. Probably it was a route that isn't registered here and not listed by the Rockfax guide book. #runandclimb

 
Thu 30th Jun 2016 - Cala Mondragó
East
6b Hang on Deep water solo 10m Very Good
Sharp rock. Good water.

 
6a Orifice Party Deep water solo 15m Classic
Once again to have a great finish after 'Mondragó's Guilt'.

 
5b Mondragó's Guilt Deep water solo 150m Good
I linked this climb with 'Orifice Party', therefore I needed to take a last section that is much harder than the rest of the traverse. Additionally I climbed some other sections harder than 4a.

 
Mon 27th Jun 2016 - Cala Mondragó
East
6a Orifice Party Deep water solo 15m Classic
Climbed in from the right. On my own, no boat. No other climbers. I didn't want to waste my chalk so I had to climb it reverse too.

 
6a Orifice Party Deep water solo 15m Classic
return

 
Sun 26th Jun 2016 - Portopetro
5+ Traversa de la Torre Deep water solo 600m Average
First climb on Mallorca.

 

Showing all 17 ascents.

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