Showing all 16 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 12th Oct 2013 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Chute Libre
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is a really nice crack climb, good variety of styles along the route. Fun 'classic canyon' bit at the top where it turns slabby and you have to shift styles.
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5.8 |
★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Made a stupid mistake and fell after the first clip. Otherwise a fine climb which asks for a little creativity and is fairly well protected. The slab section at the top is probably the hardest bit.
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Sat 24th Aug 2013 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.9 |
★ Illusion
![]() | 25m, 8 | Average | |||
End of the day, and the finer focus needed for the feet was slipping, but still got it clean. An odd mix of face work and friction slab.
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5.9 |
★ Crocodile
![]() | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The crack is definitely the hard part. Swore at it a lot and eventually made it up, not without a certain amount of 'belayer assist.' Classic crack technique needed, with a side helping of power.
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5.10b |
★★ Souris Chauve
![]() | 34m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely face climbing on the lower half, and an easier but not trivial stretch of slab at the top. A great climb for those who enjoy working with tiny finger ledges and big steps. I was really pleased to send this one on second.
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5.9 |
★★ Le Bogue de l'An 2000
![]() | 28m | ★ Good | |||
It feels as though the trad grades are slightly stiffer than the sport grades in this area: this struck me as a tricky climb. Balance and angle on the crack were a bit strange.
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5.10b |
★★ Rav - 4
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the best climbs in the Canyon: a small roof at the start, some thin face climbing on oddly rounded features, and a big slab at the top. Thoroughly satisfying. Was pleased to pull the roof, less happy with how I performed on the small edges, but then the sun was directly in my eyes for that section (this climb is very tricky around noon because of the angle of the sun.)
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5.10a |
★ Enfin Seche
![]() | 34m, 9 | Average | |||
Glad to be on top rope when we noticed the missing hanger. The lower half is not particularly hard, the upper gets tricky: friction slab.
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5.8 |
★★ Super Crackpot
![]() | 35m, 5 | Average | |||
The warm up for the day. Somehow the first climb of the day always makes me regret that last cup of coffee.
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Sat 23rd Jun 2012 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ (name unknown) P2
![]()
2
5.9
lead by
David Gibbs
| 58m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A beautiful climb.
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Fri 22nd Jun 2012 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Litige ((name unknown) P1)
![]()
1
5.7
| 58m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The first moves are tricky, friction slab climbing, and I feel bad that I fell after the first bolt... but the rest of the pitch is pretty easy.
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Sun 17th Jun 2012 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.10b |
★★ Invitation Mixte
![]() | 22m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
I say the difficulty is easy because the three or four crux moves seem to be solid 5.10a/b material, but the climbing up to the crux if more 5.8ish and the slab at the finish is also pretty easy. But the thin crack work at the crux is delicate and satisfying.
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5.7 |
★ La Belle de Cadix
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 15th Apr 2012 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.10c |
★★ Rav - 4
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
This is the first 10c I ever climbed: we had no guidebook so didn't have a clue how hard it was. The opening moves are fine, heading into a pink scar: the finger crack that gets you through the roof is shallow but has good texture. Footwork and encouragement from my crew was what got me through that. Above the scar, the climbing gets thin and fingery, with small feet and tiny edges for the hands. The final bit of slab is easier going (for me, I like slabs) but still challenging.
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5.9 |
★★ La Cha-cha des Félins
![]() | 28m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Led this route after climbing it once. The first bolt feels high, and when I fell just past it I almost hit the ground: belayer might want to tie in. I wasted a lot of energy farting around with the first bolt on my second attempt, and had to stop one more time after the fourth. That said, I guessed this route at a 5.8 or 5.7+ when I toproped it without knowing it was a 5.9: did that knowledge sketch me out? Not sure.
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5.9 |
★★ La Cha-cha des Félins
![]() | 28m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Thought it went easy for the grade when climbing second. Things got different when I led it. Big but flat hand ledges get increasingly smaller as you go up. The mantel onto the big ledge is a welcome rest stop: even on lead I felt like the slab at the top went at about 5.6.
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Showing all 16 ascents.