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Ascents in M & M by Kexin Huang

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Showing all 3 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Montagne d'Argent
M & M
5.7 Krakabra Trad 25m Classic
Climb is not as easy with an ankle injury lol. Still a very good crack. double #3 recommended

 
Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Montagne d'Argent
M & M
5.7 Krakabra Trad 25m Mega Classic
LOVED LOVED LOVED this crack! Not too painful, not too scary and not too easy. Very doable if you're comfortable with hand cracks. Doubles from .4 to 3 recommended,(not sure if bigger and smaller were used). Definitely double in the .75-3!!

Felt pretty easy compared to m&m, considering the grading isn't that far appart. Unlike the latter, this one has good foot rests every like 2-3 meters so your ankles don't have to suffer as much

 
5.8 M&M Trad 23m Mega Classic
Good sustained climbing. First 2-3 meters are harder to protect since the crack is thinner and the slab is more polished. After that the whole crack is a solid number 1 and 2, with bomber foot jams. The slab to the left gets better as well with more features. Right ankle hurts like a bitch towards the last 1/4 of the route.

In terms of gear, I used .5 and .75 at the beginning, and then switched to 2s and towards the end went back to 1s and 75s. There was a 3 in the middle right before or after the 2s. At the end there's more of the .3-.5 range. DOuble rack definetely recommanded, I think I even had triples from .75 to 2. Maybe if 5.8 is easy for you it's doable with a single? Idk. I think doubles in the .75 to 2 is needed nevertheless.

 

Showing all 3 ascents.

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