4th shot today (7th total, over about 8 months). The 2nd shot went perfectly until my footer slipped on a sandy footer going for the anchor jugs. 3rd shot I sandbagged myself trying to avoid the sandy footer (and completely messing up my sequence), so: 4th shot it is. The dangerous (though not uninteresting) start robs this climb of perfection (and soon becomes tedious). Greattechnical moves and sharp crimping with a pronounced crux. Doesn't climb much like an arete, but DOES climb rad.
Repeat. Climbed and down-climbed on lead (to avoid lowering off the moving anchor bolts). Ugh... Between the freezing cold, the stupid bolting and the generally unpleasant (and hard for the grade) climbing, this was more akin to certain kinds of torture banned under the Geneva Convention.
2 shots. So damned close! Fell off with my fingers on the clipping jug after the crux (didn't grab the hold properly before committing to using it, and slipped off) on the second shot. With good conditions, this one HAS to go. Thanks for the help on the crux sequence, Gene.
2 laps as a warm-up for Grace. Lead-down climbed the whole route on the 2nd lap. Better than it looks, and strangely not as dirty as you might think. Technical and thin at the grade. TOP ANCHOR IS LOOSE!
My 11th pitch of climbing today, but glad I got on it. An exploratory lap to see if this classic lived up to its reputation: In the style, it is pretty damn good. So much sharp, microscopic thinness accompanied by much technicality. Sequency! I think that this will go in a few more shots, and -more importantly- I think that it deserves it.
