Wasn't feeling very strong this trip, so mostly stuck to the easier climbs, and explored the place for 'next time'. Bashed our way up to Cow Tracks and figured out where things were. At the bottom of this, I thought it looked cool, and like it might have decent gear, a belief backed up by the description. Decided to have a crack, fully prepared for an aid session if I chickened out.
At the beginning, my biggest concern was fending off all the spiders that have made that corner system their home. Reasonably good gear and good climbing as long as you are careful about the odd loose block down low. By halfway up the first pitch, it was telling that I was really no longer aware of the spiders; this was not because there was any change in their numbers, but rather because I was now otherwise focussed. The technicalcrux was here, just before the traverse, in avoiding the loose rock. You don't need to use the loose stuff, and there is great gear, you just need to be careful.
I then embarked on the traverse. The only thing that kept me going was the description. 'It's 18. It's 18. Good holds. It's 18'. There was gear, but definitely not an overabundance of it. There would be no aiding through this. I spent an age there on the jugs, breathing deep, trying to calm myself enough. I peeked around the corner; no gear there. How to retreat? I couldn't undo those moves. My retreat option was to take the king swing; and I was not willing. 'Good holds'. Dammit; Trust the description and go! Up! Good holds. Thank heavens! Plug in some gear!
Stepping around the arete and gaining the roof was technical and fun, and with bomber gear right beside you this was far less intimidating than it might appear. Or else I was just all out of fear for the day? Suggest setting the belay low so you aren't dragging the rope around the roof or into the crack.
The second pitch was exactly as described - harder than it looks, however it takes excellent gear and doesn't have the intimidation factor of the first pitch - merely excellent climbing.
I had to take a star off for the patches of crummy rock on the way up the corner. So I only gave it 3. This is the most awesome and memorable climb I've ever done.
If you were to follow the rule of giving a climb the lowest number you can while keeping a straight face, I think a sadist could give this 16. The movement is not difficult, just scary. It really deserves the 18 for commitment though.
Airy. Scary. Spectacular. Incredible. Improbable. Shockingly, all there. This is what Cania is about. This route is the Cherry Bomb!
Mad props to the FA.
Oh. And it ate my half rope. Be careful of the crack when lowering your ropes. RIP orange halfie. Still worth it.
- with
Phil
Wasn't feeling very strong this trip, so mostly stuck to the easier climbs, and explored the place for 'next time'. Bashed our way up to Cow Tracks and figured out where things were. At the bottom of this, I thought it looked cool, and like it might have decent gear, a belief backed up by the description. Decided to have a crack, fully prepared for an aid session if I chickened out.
At the beginning, my biggest concern was fending off all the spiders that have made that corner system their home. Reasonably good gear and good climbing as long as you are careful about the odd loose block down low. By halfway up the first pitch, it was telling that I was really no longer aware of the spiders; this was not because there was any change in their numbers, but rather because I was now otherwise focussed. The technical crux was here, just before the traverse, in avoiding the loose rock. You don't need to use the loose stuff, and there is great gear, you just need to be careful.
I then embarked on the traverse. The only thing that kept me going was the description. 'It's 18. It's 18. Good holds. It's 18'. There was gear, but definitely not an overabundance of it. There would be no aiding through this. I spent an age there on the jugs, breathing deep, trying to calm myself enough. I peeked around the corner; no gear there. How to retreat? I couldn't undo those moves. My retreat option was to take the king swing; and I was not willing. 'Good holds'. Dammit; Trust the description and go! Up! Good holds. Thank heavens! Plug in some gear!
Stepping around the arete and gaining the roof was technical and fun, and with bomber gear right beside you this was far less intimidating than it might appear. Or else I was just all out of fear for the day? Suggest setting the belay low so you aren't dragging the rope around the roof or into the crack.
The second pitch was exactly as described - harder than it looks, however it takes excellent gear and doesn't have the intimidation factor of the first pitch - merely excellent climbing.
I had to take a star off for the patches of crummy rock on the way up the corner. So I only gave it 3. This is the most awesome and memorable climb I've ever done.
If you were to follow the rule of giving a climb the lowest number you can while keeping a straight face, I think a sadist could give this 16. The movement is not difficult, just scary. It really deserves the 18 for commitment though.
Airy. Scary. Spectacular. Incredible. Improbable. Shockingly, all there. This is what Cania is about. This route is the Cherry Bomb!
Mad props to the FA.
Oh. And it ate my half rope. Be careful of the crack when lowering your ropes. RIP orange halfie. Still worth it.