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Routes in Under Flinders Lane Wall for selected grade

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
15 Twilight Zone

A monster girdle. Why would you bother.

Start: Start as for EC.

Marvelous if you love 300m of downclimbing.

  1. 30m as for Eagle Cleft.

  2. 33m As or Hawk.

  3. 39m Traverse R to a crack, then mantleshelf downwards(wha-a-a-t?) until it's possible to reverse Kaiser's 3rd pitch.

  4. 30m Pitch 3 of Resignation, but move R above overhang to a narrow ledge.

  5. 18m Go behind obvious block, downclimb arete, along a ledge, then bridge across a 2m gap.

  6. 34m Along Kestrel's ledge, step down and climb across to Yo-Yo's third belay

  7. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

  8. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

  9. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

  10. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

FA: Chris Baxter & Daryl Carr, 1968

Trad 300m, 10
15 Kaiser
1 15 38m
2 15 15m
3 30m
4 25m

The first 2 pitches are great but the rest is ordinary.

Start: Start at the next strong crack line about 10m R of 'Marbuck'.

  1. 38m (15) Up the crack then, a few metres after it starts taking you diagonally L (towards Marbuck's big roof), traverse back R along a horizontal weakness to a ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Up steepish wall to breach the overhangs between two fairly prominent noses of rock.

  3. 30m (-) Traverse 10m L to the crack on 'Marbuck' pitch 3 (you might want to step down for the last bit). Up the crack then L.

  4. 25m (-) Up the chimney/gully thing to Flinders Lane.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1966

Trad 110m, 4
15 Kaiser - Resignation

Classic. Start up first two pitches of Kaiser, finish up top two pitches of Resignation (15,13, 15,12).

Trad 99m, 4
15 Resignation
1 10 35m
2 15 15m
3 15 23m
4 11 23m

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

  1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

  2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

  3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

  4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage & Ann Pauligk, 1966

Trad 96m, 4
15 Resignation RHV

Start at the 1st belay of 'Resignation'.

  1. 15m (15) Up the wall into a loose orange corner, which is about 5m R of the two prominent noses on p2 of the original.

  2. 55m (15) Follow the original p3 R and through the juggy overhang. Instead of trending back L, trend R up the vertical face at one o'clock for 20m via continually interesting moves and equally interesting runouts. It then eases briefly before a final tricky short undercut corner to gain Flinders Lane.

FA: Pitch 2 RHV Glenn Tempest & John Chapman, 1976

Trad 70m, 2
15 Flying Moose

Up the starting ramp as for Kestrel, step right up a few easy blocks the then left up left leaning shallow corner. Head directly up through shallow overlaps and towards the top keep 3 metres left of Pfeffernusse before a final reach right to the rap chains beneath large overlap.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ross Ellingwood, Mar 2018

Trad 23m
15 Pfeffernusse Variant Start

Avoiding the crux of Pfeffernusse through starting as for Flying Moose and continue up a few easy block to beneath the slabby section, then finish as for Pfeffernusse.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Paul Graham, Mar 2018

Trad 23m
15 Monkey Poo

Goes quite a way up 'Syrinx' and then breaks out left and probably hits the 'Yo Yo' Variant finish at some point.

  1. 15m (11) Left front side of 'Syrinx' chimney. This is what most people climb as the first pitch of Syrinx these days.

  2. 45m (11) Up as for 'Syrinx' to old peg belay above the smooth wall (half way up Syrinx's 3rd pitch).

  3. 48m (15) Step left and climb sharp corner to overhang on left. Climb righthand side of overhang to second overhang. Climb straight up past guano to large ledge.

  4. 32m (15) Up thin crack to join left end of Syrinx's traverse. Finish up 'Syrinx'.

FA: Steve Hanson & Andrew Topolcsanyi (alt), 1994

Trad 140m, 4

Showing all 8 routes.

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