Routes as trad in Glenbrook Gorge

At the very left end of the main area/cliff, short grey and orange wall at middle of large rock platform, with broken blocks at start. Up wall, BR.

A variation to Orion done in the 60s: "A slanting crack, L to R in upper part forms a good variation ... Dougle and party." [JME 1967] also shown in topo [BA 1963].

1. As for Orion to tree belay.

2. Right of orange corner to cracks, up, then traverse right at break to twin cracks on headwall ending below Bendy Bloodwood.

One of the original 1952 routes at the cliff, about which early documenters were not kind "Up through chunder" [BA] and "Wander aimlessly upward, picking your nose and eating apples until you get fed up and come wandering back down." [JME].

It is actually a pleasant easy ramble with good protection and belays, and a great introduction to the gorge, although probably a modern grade 12-14.

Start: Below broken corner system on top of upper rock platform (-33.78069, 150.63075)

1. 20m Wall, ledges and short corners to solid Bloodwood (tree) belay on ledge.

2. 25m Corner-cracks to BBB (Bendy Bloodwood Belay) at cave. Easiest to rap off here.

3. 5m+ Short awkward corner then scrambling.

80's hardcore testpiece through wild off-width roof.

Start as for Orion at discontinuous corners on ledge above main walking track

1. 35m Spot the target roof 35m above, and make up a pitch trending towards it, following best rock, and avoiding choss and vegetation as much as possible. Belay from 1 x carrot bolt, wires and small cams (0.2 and 0.3) on sandy ledge.

2. 10m (24) Up past carrot to confront intimidating roof. Most of the gear is small (doubles of 0.3 to 0.5) with larger gear (3 - 5) only necessary if aiding the crux. Belay from tree right of top out).

To escape, rap 45m from tree to big sandy ledge. From there, traverse left along ledge (looking out) until its possible to scramble down to the walking track.

Up 4 discreet carrots to DBB. Start left of first bolt. Reachy to ledge. Crux between 3rd and 4th bolt then jug city to the anchors.

Directly below MB, at a point on walker's track where it is necessary to climb to higher ledge, directly behind grass tussocks. Up wall with BR and good SLCD runners. Belay on ledge.

Start on left edge of ledge below Master Blaster Wall, on orange rock. Spectacular exposure.

1. 17m Up to traverse line, left above overhangs to PR. Poorly protected

2. 23m Left toward arete, up to AC, onto slab to top.

Twin water-streaked black wall with large turpentine tree at middle of base ledge, start 2m left of tree, directly below triangular orange patch. Good route up impressive black wall. Long leadouts with minimum protection makes it a serious lead. Up wall to groove, left to line of holds, to detached block then to break, right to water streak (crux). Cams needed.

Up short overhanging groove to PR, join MB.

As for MB to horizontal break. No protection, exposed. Good climbing. Left and up thin wall/slab.

Broken system with corner, chimneys and crack, a proper 1956 adventure. "Probably the best climb in the gorge" quoth Bryden Allen in his 1963 guide, but Things Have Moved On, particularly the notion of what constitutes grade 12, so it's now probably 15.

Start: At a pinch between boulders with the small brass Jack Murphy plaque -33.78141,150.63045.

Route and pitches can be varied:

1. 30m Up the broken corners and ledges via bushes to tree on ledge.

2. 25m (crux) Extract body from short V chimney topped by chockstone into either burly layback corner or 80-150mm wall crack.

3. 25m More burly laybacking up chimney/corner with rounded edges.

4. 25m Straight up with more of same.

To escape, skirt the cliff heading west/north-west to find the anchors above The Venom (on a big, waterwashed ledge by the cliff edge -sometimes running with water). 1 x 50m rap gets you to the belay at the end of The Venom P1, and another 50m rap gets you back to ground-level.

Just right of Jack Murphy's Climb, just left of orange streak. Steep and exposed. Protection down low is inadequate. A serious and dangerous lead. Up rotten corner, right to ramp, use BR as hand hold, leave ramp to good black rock and 3 BRs to small chain belay at ledge. Abseil off tree.

A few metres left of TV. A short wander. Up black wall then left to tree.

Sharing a few sections of climbing with The Venom, this line launches up the steeper, blanker faces, while remaining stylistically similar to its elder sibling.

Bring a double rack #0.3 to #3, a single #0.2 and #4, and an extra #0.3. Bring 2 x 60m ropes if rapping off from the top.

This route seeps heavily after rain, and will remain wet even when the rest of the gorge is bone dry.

Start (as for The Venom) at prominent thin crack at right side of black wall, approximately 8m above the Gorge floor (can be accessed by an easy stemming corner).

1. 15m 15 - Up black seam as for The Venom for 5m to major ledge system. Rising traverse left until directly below major orange flake, then onwards and upwards to bolt belay. Bring the full rack for this pitch.

2. 25m 21 - Up thin flake (#0.3 on left) and up prow past bolt to thin rail where you'll find a crucial #0.3/#0.4 placement in a slot out left. Fingery traverse right, and up to sloper and bolt. Continue up vague corner system to steep finger crack (2 x #0.3). Up this to bolt, then turn roof on edges (slightly right of bolt) and up face (unprotected) to bolt belay (shared with the end of The Venom P1).

3. 20m 17 - Shared with The Venom P2. Straight up nose above belay (#4, #0.4, #0.3) to bolt. Traverse straight left past another bolt, then up onto ledge system. Rising traverse left past #0.4 and #0.75 to bolt belay.

4. 30m 22 - Up seam past #0.4, #0.5 and #0.75 to bolt and rooflet. Gain the ledge, ignore carrots heading out left, and instead head right to bolt. Step out over the void, then crux moves straight up face to gain break (#0.3, #0.2), then upwards to gain ledge (#0.3, #0.4). Traverse right to bolt belay.

5. 15m 20 - Tricky moves (and gear - sneaky #0.4 slot out left) above the belay to gain stance under the roof. Blast out the roof crack slightly right of the belay via #2 and #3, and up crack (#0.5) to top out. Belay off #2 and #1 cams.

To escape, find the bolts above The Venom (up and right from where this route tops out -on the other side of the waterfall) and abseil 50m to the belay at the end of P2, and another 50m to the starting ledge.

A surprisingly modern outing for the time. This route attacks the most visually striking part of the gorge (the bit you froth over on the train from Lapstone to Glenbrook), weaving a route up the best rock and climbing.

Bring a double rack #0.3 to #3 and a single #4. Wires are also useful. Bring 2 x 60m ropes if rapping off from the top.

This route seeps heavily after rain, and will remain wet even when the rest of the gorge is bone dry.

Start at prominent thin crack at right side of black wall, approximately 8m above the Gorge floor (can be accessed by an easy stemming corner).

1. 40m 18 - Up black seam, then onwards between breaks to ledge with tree. Continue up weakness past carrot and prow to gain crack system to take you to bolt belay.

2. 20m 17 - Straight up nose above belay (#4, #0.4, #0.3) to bolt. Traverse straight left past another bolt, then up onto ledge system. Rising traverse left past #0.4 and #0.75 to bolt belay.

3. 30m 21 - Up seam past #0.4, #0.5 and #0,5 to bolt and rooflet. Gain the ledge, then continue up and left past 2 x carrots to crux. Committing moves up the face (#2, #1, #1, #0.5) to ledge. Traverse hard right via an assortment of gear to bolt belay.

4. 15m 18 - Tricky moves (and gear - sneaky #0.4 slot out left) above the belay to gain stance under the roof. Traverse hard right to right-facing corner (carrot) and up this (#3, #4) to top out and bolt belay.

To escape, abseil 50m to the belay at the end of P1, and another 50m to the starting ledge.

Corner 5m right of TV, immediately below a pair of Angophoras. A fair climb following the longest natural line on the cliff.

1. 10m Up roof.

2. 20m Up to roof, along roof to alcove, into layback corner, up right to ledge.

3. 20m Follow easiest line heading to base of black chimney. Belay.

4. 40m Into chimney/crack, good exposed climbing to top.

5. 10m Broken rock to top.

"The rock .. is appalling and the climb unpleasant in the extreme." [BA]

Start: Just left of the scrubby line of recesses in the centre of the wall between "Jack Murphy's Climb" and Southern Cross.

1. 40' Up short wall

2. 50' Traverse left through scrub to beneath first overhang.

3. 200' "Up a set of appalling rock recesses such as you see before you"

Up short overhanging groove to PR, join MB.

Subtle line with good positions. Start: as for Jerks 1n Heaven. 1: up past BR, left to PR, continue left to base of grooves and up to ledge. Abseil off as per Puddin Puller.

A good climb, but not much protection. Start: arete between Paradise and Puddin Puller. Start off fused pedestal which is on ledge above track. 1: up past BR, arrange protection in comer of Paradise then continue up blunt arete, big SLCDs desirable.

Direct start is to the left, a thin crack about 17. An enjoyable climb but not much protection down low. Up as for PPR for 5m then left via small bulge to corner, then to black wall, straight up to FH (crux) and on to DBB.

Left corner in squarish gully that has a Bloodwood at top of middle or rear wall of gully. Scramble/climb to top of fused pedestal. An excellent climb up steep crack and corner. Poor protection at start. Right to thin crack/bulge, up to join twin thin cracks, up corner to tree belay.

Several metres to right of PP. Nice down low. Up slab to BR, thin flake to join SC at 'V' roof.

Obvious 'V' chimney in right of squarish gully. Does not impress. Up to pipe, out, over and up.

Thin cracks and steps around right of SC. Harder than it looks. Limited protection. Up the steps, limited protection.

Reddish/orange flake 10m left of KC. A thin Bloodwood is at its base. Exciting, hard finish. Up steep crack to ledge. Continue up right curving flake, traverse right under roof to KC.

2m right of AOAD. Intimidating. Up to ledge. Continue up wall just right of flake (AoaD) to roof. Across roof (PR) and up wall. Tree belay.

Thinnish crack a few metres left of KC. A PR can be seen about 4 metres up. Reasonable. Up crack, over huge loose block, right up wall passing 3 BRs to join KC.

Obvious corner in black rock, with a ground level roof immediately to the right. A she-oak is at the base of the corner. Enjoyable climbing. A hard start. Up the corner.

Crack and wall climb. Up KC for 5m, traverse right onto wall, up as you will.

A few metres right of KC. Hard. Good wall and roof. 1. 10m Up wall, BR, to ledge. 2. 15m Out through cave/roof, past BR, up seam, BR, to belay.

The nose left of DC. Some hard moves. Straight up, FH, BR.

Obvious 'V' leftward arching chimney, between AC and KC. Immediately behind belay tree for SMU. A good route. Straight up, you can belay at BR, or climb on up left crack.

Cut away roof just left of pitch 2 of AC. Airy and gymnastic. Swing out past BR and PR on thin holds onto arete. Up (poor BR) to BB.

A true classic. Sometimes called Kippax Crack. This climb actually starts on the Lower Cliffline, with the second pitch being in between 'Into the Void' and 'Purple Maze' on the 'Main Wall'. See the route diagram below for more info.

Starts from the BR on Annelid Crack Pitch 2 (about half way up Pitch 2) A fine little excursion in the old style. 1. 15m From BR, drop down around arete to ledge then along to start of pitch 2 of DC. 2. 10m As for P2 of PC.

Starts from the BR on Annelid Crack Pitch 2 (about half way up Pitch 2) A good alternative to AC. Left to old BR, up thin corner to bulge, to tree belay.

Starts from the BR on Annelid Crack Pitch 2 (about half way up Pitch 2) Fair climbing, needs a bolt (unprotected). Across to arete left of PC, and up.

Starts from the BR on Annelid Crack Pitch 2 (about half way up Pitch 2) Good fun. Thin for the grade. From bolt, up left 5m to finger traverse at 3/4 height, BR, up to tree.

Starts from the BR on Annelid Crack Pitch 2 (about half way up Pitch 2) Very nice. From BR, climb down to start wall on right, up wall/slab passing 3 BRs to chain belay.

Starts from the BR on Annelid Crack Pitch 2 (about half way up Pitch 2) An old aid route. Good climbing in an exposed position. From BR climb down to join horizontal crack. Traverse right past PR to join PM, up crack to belay.

4 metres right of start of P2 of AC. A solid wall climb, poorly protected. Straight up wall (PR). Range of SLCD's (Cams) needed.

The obvious crack right of AC. Start at root on shale ledge below crack. Up crack, BR down low.

Good line with good climbing on wall right of Purple Maze crack. Up to overhang, right to PR, up to hard-to-clip BR on bulge, then right to ledge. Continue straight up wall past tricky mantleshelf move and 2 BRs. Tree belay.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Right side of overhanging corner with huge white roof, immediately above recent rockfall! The middle of this climb is now on the river bed. Take care!

1. Up steep wall BR to 2 PR, right to arete.

2. Up corner (could be harder now with lower section missing).

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. A good route, fair protection. Up TD for 6m, traverse left for 2 to 3m (FH) to wall and up, passing 2 BRs and 1 PR.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. 2m left of TS.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. In orange alcove about 15 metres right of CC. Rotten cave just left of start. Great climbing up an interesting line. Up alcove/crack, left around small roof (small wires needed) up good crack. Up nose/crack then left to black corner. Tree belay.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Start as for TD. An old style route following easy line. Up in cave/alcove, right to ledge, follow ramp/blocks to tree as for S. Abseil off tree.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Seam to the left of the ramp on C.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. A good afternoon jog. Up C then follow the buttress up obvious line to join Tunnel View Slot. Up walls left of slot.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Obvious thin crack through bulge/roof just right of TD. Strenuous and frightening. Just follow the crack.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. The direct start goes out of cave 10m right of TD (grade 19, 3 BRs). Originally only P2 was climbed by abseiling in. The upper section is pleasant. Up wall/cracks to tree.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Start as for SDS, or abseil in from tree. Hard moves near bolt, poor protection down low. Left to bullnose arete, belay. Up arete, BR.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Start in cave/roof just left of R. A good line on good rock, though rock at start is poor. Through roof and then good crack.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Start as for R. Varied and different, limited protection. Up ribs to roof BR, left via bulge.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Look for thin Casuarina tree that is up against rock. Deep red flake is behind top of this tree. Climb is directly under Tunnel View Lookout. One of the more popular routes in the Gorge. Varied climbing on good rock with good protection. Up short wall behind Casuarina tree, to flake, right to wall then corner and up over roof to tree. Abseil off tree.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Do P1 of Ripsnorta to base of corner. Some good climbing on clean rock. Up arete to ledge (use corner for protection), up wall BRs to top.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. A fine line flawed by sections of poor rock. 1. 25m As for Ripsnorta then right across ledge to tree. 2. 35m Up nice orange arete, through rubble then through roof.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. "Like a drunken Viking, it could either do you in or fall down of its own accord." 1. 25m As for Ripsnorta. 2. 10m Right to flake and up to ledge. 3. 25m Up corner to unusual suspended block. Around this with care then right through roof and up to tree belay.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. 5m right of Ripsnorta, immediately below Ripsnorta's upper corner. A strong line on left margin of buttress. 1. 12m Up to ledge, right to base of yellow corner. 2. 24m Up corner past block, swing left to belay as for Ripsnorta.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Loose roof just right of normal start of Gormenghast, rotten wall below. Not recommended! Up crack with extreme care.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Details vague but apparently goes through noxious roof 10m left of RR, then line obvious. Strong, independent line right of Eric Bloodaxe, with committing (unprotected) moves down low.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Thin corner with black and red roof, about 35 metres right of R. A fine line, could use more protection. 1 and 2. 35m Up to top of corner, diagonally right across black wall then trend left on poor rock past PR, some rope drag. Belay on loose ledge.

1. 10m Up steep cracks to top, obvious exit crack seen from ground.

Thin corner just right of Turpentine tree, red streaks on black rock. Some good but committing moves on the corner.

1. 25m Up corner, left to large horizontal below black overlap and slab (large pro needed), on to slab and up to belay ledge. Obvious thin single tree.

2. 25m Up enjoyable flakes through steep rock

Crack at far right of cliff, about 25m right of RR. Some good moves. Up crack and cave, continue to tree.

Originally an aid route. Start. marked corner crack in pale rock with roof, at water level. 1: out across roof, PR in situ.

Completed after a liquid lunch. Start: Marked yellow corner with small roof at 6-7 metres, starts on a ledge. 1: corner, roof, wall to BB.

Steep and sustained, dirty. Start: as for three cans later. 1: corner, roof, wall to BB

Poor Protect. Start: Sharp corner directly below second pitch of Annelid Crack behind three thin trees

Some good moves but no protection. Start: on black wall just right of Controversy Corner. 1: up from blocks then black wall, up centre.

Directly below the obvious corner crack which is the second pitch of Annelid Crack. Very good climbing, although can be a bit dirty. A great direct start to AC. One carrot bolt over the first ledge.

Unprotected start, but then good climbing. Start: starts at Hang Five. 1: start at crack, move right 3 metres then up wall to thin crack (2BR) to BB.

Some good moves, small wires needed. Start: as for Airstrike. 1: up Airstrike, left at 3/ 4 height.

Is often top-roped. Start: wall to left of start for Annelid Crack. 1: up wall BR.

A fair traverse. The crack traversing Adrenalin Deficiency wall at 2/3 height.

A nice wall but a slippery crux move. Start: immediately behind end of large boulders, left end of greyish wall, below largish Grey Gum. 1: up to BR, then to break, slightly right to pockets, up to BR then to top.

A contrived route, but with some good moves. Start: as for Powder Finger. 1: up wall, move right at BR, up to BR plus break up as for Powder Finger.

Slopey start to a high first bolt. Up slab to a tricky lip to more nice slabbing

(1 carrot, 3 FHs)

Some good moves, harder than it looks. Start: right hand end of wall, just left of rockslide. 1: up the wall to BR then to BB.

Don't ask me what the name means. Start: finger crack in middle of wall, immediately below Cancer, small orange/yellow cave at right of start.

Fair. Start: a 2m square block below start.

Fun, but not much protection. Start: rotten looking groove on nose. Cave at 1/2 height.

A nice little route. Start: thin diagonal crack 2m right of comer, immediately above two Turpentine trees.

Start: left of double cracks up sort of nose. Small sandy cave at bottom.

Some good jambing. Start: right of double cracks. 2m left of large Blood wood.

Start on the overhanging orange wall on the right as you enter the Gorge cliffs. A good route that remained the hardest climb for many years. Up thin crack (2 BRs plus cams).

Start in cave directly above "Kevin's Corner".

1. 10m Up to BB, BR en route.

2. 30m Up the black section to crack, continue to tree. This pitch is also called Casurina Crack.

Just behind belay tree of Annelid Crack. Very short. Up thin crack.

From top of Annelid Crack follow ledge (dangerous) for approximately 15 metres to orange flake. Exposed climbing on good rock.

1. 10m Up to flake.

2. 6m Over roof to tree.

Up arete left of Ape Flake, clip bolt with stick, BB.

Above Ape Flake, the crack to the left. Up crack, few details known.

1m right of Ape Flake. A nice little climb, finger locks all the way. Up crack. Tree belay.

On wall right of Crack of Value. Nice climbing. Up groove/crack to roof, left over roof then up to tree belay.

Jagged crack just right of Assistance. Beginners delight. Up the crack.

Roof/crack/blocks above abseil tree above S ie four-pronged Bloodwood. "Best be a chicken, and you won't finish up in a casket!" Up the horror show.

At the cave/roof above the track, down from roof on D, as you enter the Gorge. Direct start is about 19.

As for VM, start in cave. "It's bound to bite you!" Scramble up from rock platform near LR. Out along roof, lip, crack to tree.

The wide crack on the north as the Gorge is entered, about 30m up from creek, crack is left of roof of D. Rather pointless. Up crack to left.