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Route as trad in Powder Finger Finish

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Powder Finger Finish

Another superb, long and hard slab route. The original first pitch climbed a flake and overlap just left of 'Outer Limit' (now claimed by Bananas in Pyjamas P2), but the route as described is much better. Start above the second bolt of 'Bananas in Pyjamas' (scramble up the bushy gully). This is 10m right and up from 'Vent Crack'.

  1. 40m (23) - Up to a ledge, then up the crazed crack/groove to a peg. Continue up through the overlap and the groove above to a second overlap. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a mossy groove, and follow this up (past a bolt on 'Bananas in Pyjamas') to a ledge. Extensive exfoliation in the 2020 fires has made the first 15m (which was already serious) harder, less good, and extremely dangerous.

  2. 25m (22) - Frees the old aid section of 'Linear Crack'. Strenuously up the twin flared finger cracks to a tree, then easily to the top of a huge block.

  3. 35m (23) - Move leftwards around the arete and continue traversing left beneath the bulge to a peg in the corner. Climb up and over the bulge to a bolt, then straight up the hard slab above.

FA: Roark Muhlen, Peter Mills & John Hartlet, 1980

Mixed trad 100m, 3, 1

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